Clutch Carnage!!

[bcjjones]

Transmission had been grinding in second gear, figured it was a bad synchro. Then on the way home two days ago, it started to grind every gear. Did all the usual, changed the fluid, bled the system, adjusted the clutch, the linkages, it has a new master and slave isnt leaking. Still would grind in every gear. Pushed it a little too hard only out a neccessity, heard a big pop when taking off and ended up getting towed home.

Dropped the tranmission for the first time on this car, pretty easy. Only took an hour and a half. Here is what I found

To me the pressure plate seems fine. No bent fingers and its not really worn down there the throw out bearing was rubbed against it. I guess the clutch fork is broken correct? I'm guessing that piece snapped off of it? Obviously the TOB is shredded. There are some pretty deep scrapes on the input shaft, kinda hard to see on the picture, is that going to be a problem?

Could all this be caused by a bad TOB? When I bought the car, three-four months ago, the guy said he had just replaced it. I'm sure it probably wasnt an OEM one, its too screwed up to tell, so could that have caused this?

 

[cianfar]

You're going to need a new stub piece that go over the input shaft on the bell housing. I can't seem to find the part number. Try doing a search.

 

[WES_393]

You're going to need a new stub piece that go over the input shaft on the bell housing. I can't seem to find the part number. Try doing a search.

It's actually part of the bell housing if I'm not mistaken.

That's quite the TOB malfunction. I can't see that the fork is broken, maybe it's just the lighting. But if it has two holes for the TOB clip is should be alright. The pressure plate got a nice beating, it might be a good excuse to upgrade the clutch. But you will definitely need a new TOB and clip, possibly a fork if you feel it's necessary.

Here's a good source for genuine Mitsubishi parts.
STM: 90-99 DSM | OEM MITSUBISHI PARTS | DRIVETRAIN COMPONENTS

If you do decide to upgrade the clutch, I would personally suggest South Bend.
http://tmzperformance.com/Mitsubishi SBC Clutch Parts.html

 

[bryanwheat]

There is a steel sleeve that you can get that slides over the tob snout. It also looks like there is a lot of wear on the clutch fork. I would replace the fork, pivot ball, tob, tob clip, pressure plate and install a sleeve.

 

[NordicSaab]

I had an integra race car that did the same thing. The clutch blew up and went through the side the the transmission case. Good luck with the repair

 

[bcjjones]

I guess as far as the clutch fork goes, I was just assuming it was broken because of that piece right above it that is detached. Im not sure what that is? Ill search around and hopefully find a sleeve for the input shaft. Im a little weary now of the transmission and the fact that I might have screwed up the synchros. How likely do yall think that is, and/or if I were to crack open the bell housing would I be able to inspect them?

I was thinking about this clutch, I dont need anything real beefy. I dont race the car much and never really do hard launches, its a DD. I dont think with my current setup id exceed the 320 torque rating unless yall tell me otherwise?

Talon

 

[twicks69]

There is a steel sleeve that you can get that slides over the tob snout. It also looks like there is a lot of wear on the clutch fork. I would replace the fork, pivot ball, tob, tob clip, pressure plate and install a sleeve.

The steel sleeve is only on 2g AWD transmissions, 1g AWD and both gen FWD transmissions do not have it. As well, that steel sleeve is on national backorder currently.

The bellhousing would need to be replaced or if you can sand down the wear spots smooth and keep the sleeve round, simply give that a try with a new OEM TOB, MD749998. Get a new clutch fork and TOB clip also.

Cracking open the bellhousing won't do shit for you because you need to do a full transmission teardown from the 5th gear cover side.

 

[bcjjones]

Cant ever be just a normal break for me, something breaks and it ends up screwing something else up and then that screws sonething else up! I would probably have to find a used bell housing correct? To be honest they are some pretty deep gouges and I dont think sanding them out conpletely smooth is possible. Ill give it a shot.

What do you think about the clutch I posted abovr? I might as well replace the whole thing and do a little upgrade as well.
I also just might end up getting a rebuilt trans as well, I really think second gear at thr least is shot. What do yall think about this Tre econo tranny. The first one on the list:

TRE current specials page - Team Rip Engineering

 

[gprix1]

I had similiar damage to my sleeve. Cleaned it up with a file, sanded it smooth and it's been working pefect ever since. It did have the ACT metal sleeve TOB before which I believe contributes to this problem. Now I only use the OEM ones with the plastic center.

Also, since you are replacing your clutch fork you might consider a forged one. They come with a HD pivot ball and are only $89 from MAP
Competition Clutch Forged Steel Clutch Fork (Mitsubishi 4G63) - Modern Automotive Performance

 

[bcjjones]

So if I were to try and sand down the shaft, would I just need to make it smooth or actually sand the gouges all the way out?