1Gab Laser
15+ Year Contributor
- 334
- 0
- Mar 24, 2008
-
aaaaaaaaaa,
Africa
Well my 1g has been on the road for a few weeks now, but the check engine light has been on the whole time. If I clear it (with the battery terminal) it'll come on about 5 miles down the road.
The car runs fine, I've put about 1000 miles on it. The only problem is that I should either get a capacitor or upgrade my alternator because when I bump the subs for a while if I pull up to a stop light it'll idle down really low and run kinda rough, then once the fans kick on it'll smooth out and be fine.
I don't know if that'd set off the light?
But anyways, the day I got it on the road and the light came on, I went to VIP and asked if they could read it. They said no, only OBDII. so I asked if they knew of any place that could read OBDI, they sent me to some guy's backyard shop. I went there, he told me he'd have to look it up and see if hec ould read it and to come back in a half hour. I got some food, came back and he told me no, it was too old. So I stopped at a performance shop on the way to work, they told me it was a Mitsubishi specific plug and only a dealer could read it. I stopped at the dealer, they told me I'd have to purchase the full diagnostic package for $85. (Come on, after spending probably $1000 there for parts they couldn't cut me a deal?)
I heard there was some way to cross the pins to spit the code out in the dash. Does anyone know which pins I have to do and have a list of what the different flashes mean?
There's no way I'm paying $85 to have the dealer read my code and nobody is gonna want to buy a car with the check engine light on... even though its probably something stupid like my intake is sucking in more air than normal.
The car runs fine, I've put about 1000 miles on it. The only problem is that I should either get a capacitor or upgrade my alternator because when I bump the subs for a while if I pull up to a stop light it'll idle down really low and run kinda rough, then once the fans kick on it'll smooth out and be fine.
I don't know if that'd set off the light?
But anyways, the day I got it on the road and the light came on, I went to VIP and asked if they could read it. They said no, only OBDII. so I asked if they knew of any place that could read OBDI, they sent me to some guy's backyard shop. I went there, he told me he'd have to look it up and see if hec ould read it and to come back in a half hour. I got some food, came back and he told me no, it was too old. So I stopped at a performance shop on the way to work, they told me it was a Mitsubishi specific plug and only a dealer could read it. I stopped at the dealer, they told me I'd have to purchase the full diagnostic package for $85. (Come on, after spending probably $1000 there for parts they couldn't cut me a deal?)
I heard there was some way to cross the pins to spit the code out in the dash. Does anyone know which pins I have to do and have a list of what the different flashes mean?
There's no way I'm paying $85 to have the dealer read my code and nobody is gonna want to buy a car with the check engine light on... even though its probably something stupid like my intake is sucking in more air than normal.

. But nooooooo, thatd be to easy 