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Car wont build boost wtf??

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daR3alEddieJ

10+ Year Contributor
44
0
Aug 12, 2011
Sheridan, Wyoming
I just got done installing a FMIC and 20g turbo and mbc on my car and I can't figure out why it won't really boost, I don't think its even getting out of vacuum but I just have the stock boost gauge so its hard to tell. Anyways I think I hooked the boost controller up right but I don't know, it seems like everyone does theirs different. I tried using the bung on my j pipe as a boost source and the other line to my wastegate actuator. I tried having a line to the wastegate actuator and the other teed in with the bov and intake mani, tried turning boost way up and way down and it doesn't seem to build boost. I can't hear any boost leaks and the turbo/intercooler/boost controller are brand new...this is driving me crazy I haven't had my car for a good month now and I NEED to get this running, everytime I think I have everything back together something else seems to go wrong....I am goin F****** crazy. :banghead:
 
Anytime after installing a new turbo, or intercooler piping/ core, you should always do a boost leak test.... You never know, you might have missed something! Make sure you don't have any kinks in your vaccum source to the bov, that can cause your bov to stick open, and act like a huge leak... You should also get a boost gauge, shouldn't touch a boost controller without one!

As for the mbc, whether its installed backwards or not, it should build boost up to the spring pressure, which most likely is 8-12lbs!
 
Get a cheap real boost gauge. I think even autozone or harbor freight sells them anything is better than the factory fake gauge.
 
Get a spray bottle with liquid soap and spray around the couplers, fmic, bov, and throttle body. Check around the injectors and turbo as well!
Good Luck!!

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
 
Two things are going to cause you to not build any boost. A pre-turbo exhaust leak, usually the flange from the manifold to the head or from the manifold to turbo flange due to not being tightened down enough, cracks or the gasket got damaged during install (more so if you are reusing gaskets, which you shouldn't do, for the price of new ones, it is worth the benefit).

The other is a boost leak after the compressor outlet on the turbo, which requires a boost leak tester as suggested.
 
Two things are going to cause you to not build any boost. A pre-turbo exhaust leak, usually the flange from the manifold to the head or from the manifold to turbo flange due to not being tightened down enough, cracks or the gasket got damaged during install (more so if you are reusing gaskets, which you shouldn't do, for the price of new ones, it is worth the benefit).

The other is a boost leak after the compressor outlet on the turbo, which requires a boost leak tester as suggested.

First things first get a aftermarket boost gauge!!

Although this is good advice both those suggestions would more than likely cause boost lag. Unless you have a very significant amount of boost leaking, (I.e.left a hose to the IM off or something like that) you should be able to get out of vacumme. As for a pre turbo exhaust leak, again it would have to be a significant leak. But if these acted together then I guess its possable.

I would recommend inspecting your waistgate, not just the actuator, I would inspect how well the flapper covers the passage, and make sure the actuator lets the WG arm fully close, also inspect passage for cracks. But do a BLT first. Second make sure you EM is mounted to head with correct gasket, aswell as EM to turbo with correct gasket. Third if those all check out and the problem still exists, then check your WG actuator (hook it up to a compressor) shoot done air in there and make sure it pushes the WGA rod. Fourth time to pull the hot side of your turbo and inspect your WG flapper and arm. And if none of those yield results check your compression.

Also don't tee your MBC line or your BOV line, run your BOV to the IM only, no splices, tee's. Run your MBC off, your j pipe into your MBC, and from your MBC to your WGA.

Hope this helps:thumb:
 
I'll agree with talondave on this one. the first you should when fmic or any pipe up grade to do a boost leak check. that will make things alot easier to track down
 
The VERY first "mod" he should have done was a boost/vacuum gauge. Ebay 20g? If so, adjust your wastegate actuator arm, I bet it's just flapping open. If not, well, as stated a HUGE leak. I got a turbo once that had a bent shaft, it wouldn't build boost at all. It also whined really bad, thus I only had a few miles on it.
 
Ok the turbo and FMIC are brand new so i have a hard time believing the wastegate actuator is F****d up, and I am not sure how to do a boost leak test....I turned on my car and went around to all the couplers and sprayed soapy water around them to see if they would bubble(I'm a plumber and we do this on cast iron pipes all the time) and I didn't see anything, I don't understand why I can't get my turbo out of vacuum...Duh there's a boost leak but am I just doing it wrong? Do I need someone to lightly rev my engine while I spray the couplers? and I don't want to damage this new turbo doing stupid BS...
 
IC Pipe Tester
You will have to pressurize the intake system and then spray your connections down. With that big of a leak though, it would almost have to be an untightened coupler or no connection at all if it indeed is not building any boost. Otherwise, do as the others have suggested, check your wastegate. If it isn't working like it should, you won't be building much boost.
 
I didn't say the actuator or wastegate were ####ed, I said to adjust them. Also is it ebay parts or not?

And, of coarse, you won't see any bubbles if the system isn't pressurized. As a plumber you should know this.

You the need the Boost Leak Tester, air compressor and a quiet non-running engine.

Watch this guys videos: Jafromobile's Channel - YouTube
 
:banghead: I tightened up my couplers some were leaking air, and I took the tee off between my IM and bov, and am using the bung by my j pipe for input on my mbc, but now my car wont even rev up past 2k rpm, and seems like the turbo isnt spooling or at least isn't even registering vacuum on my stock gauge(yes I have the stock gauge still, I am broke so I don't need 10 more people telling me to get an aftermarket one, I will asap, I am more concerned with being able to drive my car again). and yes its an EBAY 20g, and I have no idea how to adjust the wastegate arm if you think that is what it is....I just don't see how it could be adjusted improperly when I have a copy of the balancing sheet fresh from the factory saying it(the turbo) works just fine...
 
:banghead: I tightened up my couplers some were leaking air, and I took the tee off between my IM and bov, and am using the bung by my j pipe for input on my mbc, but now my car wont even rev up past 2k rpm, and seems like the turbo isnt spooling or at least isn't even registering vacuum on my stock gauge(yes I have the stock gauge still, I am broke so I don't need 10 more people telling me to get an aftermarket one, I will asap, I am more concerned with being able to drive my car again). and yes its an EBAY 20g, and I have no idea how to adjust the wastegate arm if you think that is what it is....I just don't see how it could be adjusted improperly when I have a copy of the balancing sheet fresh from the factory saying it(the turbo) works just fine...

hey man i agree completely with the not being able to buy a boost gauge right this very second just ### everyone says too but it might be a good idea to help track down the problem and maybe you should try putting on your old turbo and see what happens. if it builds boost then you know its your ebay special.
 
There is a reason those eBay turbos are no refund no return................. The factory boost gauge is not one at all. It does not register vacuum and uses load and tps to move not boost................ We all want to help but can't without you doing the necessary diagnostic tests with the tools necessary. Before you put these parts on did the car run perfect? Also I am afraid to ask but you are not still on the stock injectors and fuel pump with a 20g right?
 
Hey man, I'm sorry your still having this problem, I figured I would check back in with ya and I understand being broke, I'm currently living of unemployment due to lack of work in my field, but if you have $20 bucks to spare, I have a nice 30psi automeetet boost gauge I can send to you, not trying to make a profit here just trying to help you out with this, pm me of interested.

Ok so sometimes the WG arm can kinda shift to the side and leave a gap where the WG Flapper covers the WG passage. Here is a nice thread with pictures that will show you what I'm talking about. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/331516-flapper-problem.html

Also just because you have a piece of paper saying the turbo works doesn't always hold true. I myself have never had a ebay turbo but I have read plenty of threads on this forum to know you are taking a gamble with em. Some only last a few days, some don't work at all, and some last years. Considering they are made on china on a assembly line where quanity and cost is more important than quality, you just never know.

As far as you not being able to rev past 2k rpm won't have anything to do with your vac lines, make sure your MAF if pluged in and working, make sure your turbo spins freely, and do a BLT,
 
Try doing a reverse book leak test through your exhaust pipe. This will show you any leaks in your exhaust manifold quite nicely.
 
Of course you still have to do a boost leak test, but sometimes things just go wrong and the recent work masks it, making you think it has something to do with your new goodies. Your problem could lie elsewhere but we won't know for sure until you get that BLT done.

I know it sucks being told a million times but you will find your problem this way. It is just a necessary thing to do before people can further help you with your problem.
 
Try this if you don't have what it takes to do a BLT. With the car at idle, and a can of starting fluid, spray down all the IC pipe connections, one by one. If it idles up, then there's a leak.
If it's the turbo or wastegate your car should idle fine and run up and down the road no problems, just without boost. I am curious if your turbo spins freely or not though..
Make sure the MAF is hooked up and there aren't any big leaks between it and the throttle body, make sure that your intake pipe is tightly secured to your turbo inlet, as this is a common place for an F up on a newly installed system.
 
I think you need to change your oil with some synthetic dexron vi and that will fix all your problems. Just keep adding fluid until it prrrrrs under boost.
 
ok I forgot to mention i did try a BLT thats how I found out that I had coupler that weren't tight enough...but my valve stem kept falling out of my tester I made so I guess ima try to epoxy it in so it won't fall out...YES my turbo does spin freely(one of the first things I checked)because I just got done rebuilding the stock one but apparently I f*cked the balance or something ### it wouldnt build boost and smoked like a mofo but thats off topic....I will go back and double check that my MAF is plugged in all the way ### I had to take out my intake to put the tester on so that's a possibility....and I DID try to get a boost gauge on here about a month ago but the #### stole my money and won't reply to my PM's on here....
 
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