Car trys but can't start after engine swap

[alex99gst]

First off, I have searched a ton and can't haven't found anything that has worked yet. For starters, I just dropped in my 2.4L and hooked up everything. There is no CEL. I have the battery rewired into the trunk with a 2 gauge positive wire going to a distribution block where the fuse boxes and starter are connected. I made sure that I had very good grounds and sanded away the paint. This helped slightly. When I try to start the car I jump the battery with another running car. It will sometimes start up on the first try and will idle for 5 seconds and die immediately.

I had it wired up before without a circuit breaker and I think the positive wire shorted on the body somehow and hurt the ECU. It started clicking and the capacitors leaked so I sent it off to Steve and he fixed it up very nicely.

I have replaced the CAS (wasn't getting a signal because of the capacitor damage. probably didn't need to be replaced.), coil pack, plugs, and power transistor. I lined up my timing marks 1/2 tooth advanced because of the head on the 2.4L block and they are lined up perfectly along with the mark on the crank.

It is getting fuel and I am positive that it is getting spark because it has started for 5 second intervals before. I would appreciate any help with this. Thanks guys.

 

[92awddsm]

I would start by checking fuel pressure. Your problems sound like they are pressure related.

If you have recently installed an aftermarket fuel pump, I would begin there. If you used the o-ring on top of the pump, they have been known to twist and leak. A quick remedy would be to replace the o-ring and plastic cap with a very short piece of 5/16" fuel line.

 

[viprez586]

When you drive the alternator charges the battery, so if you havent drove it and the battery has low voltage thats why you having trouble starting it all by itself.

 

[alex99gst]

I would start by checking fuel pressure. Your problems sound like they are pressure related.

If you have recently installed an aftermarket fuel pump, I would begin there. If you used the o-ring on top of the pump, they have been known to twist and leak. A quick remedy would be to replace the o-ring and plastic cap with a very short piece of 5/16" fuel line.

I forgot to mention that I have an AFPR with a gauge on it and my dad said that when I tried to start the car it jumped to around 40. I think there had to be some kind of combustion because at night you could see a little bit of smoke coming out the exhaust. I thought the gas could have been bad so I put a jumper wire on the relay and pumped all the fuel out and poured in some fresh 93, so I know the pump is working.

When you drive the alternator charges the battery, so if you havent drove it and the battery has low voltage thats why you having trouble starting it all by itself.

I always have the battery jumped to a running vehicle when I try to start the car. The battery isn't the problem.

 

[alex99gst]

I went outside this morning and my car started twice in a row and this time if I gave it some gas it could run for about 10 seconds. Now it keeps throwing the same code 23 as before my ECU was repaired. My logger says "TDC Sensor" and vfaq says it's the CAS. I have replaced the CAS but I think the problem is that it isn't getting a 12v source from the red wire. I recently went to a junk yard and pulled a couple CAS connectors (since mine looked sketchy) and soldered in the one with the best looking wiring. I have tried a couple of these and I am confident that my wiring is adequate. Any help with the CAS code is greatly appreciated.

 

[92awddsm]

I went outside this morning and my car started twice in a row and this time if I gave it some gas it could run for about 10 seconds. Now it keeps throwing the same code 23 as before my ECU was repaired. My logger says "TDC Sensor" and vfaq says it's the CAS. I have replaced the CAS but I think the problem is that it isn't getting a 12v source from the red wire. I recently went to a junk yard and pulled a couple CAS connectors (since mine looked sketchy) and soldered in the one with the best looking wiring. I have tried a couple of these and I am confident that my wiring is adequate. Any help with the CAS code is greatly appreciated.

Is the cas installed properly?

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[alex99gst]

Is the cas installed properly?

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Great call. I haven't checked that yet. I feel like such a noob but now I finally get what you guys mean when you say someone had the CAS inverted 180*. I didn't know it had any special orientation so I just put it on. Thanks a ton. I'll go try this right now.

 

[alex99gst]

I just checked and it actually was turned around 180*, so thanks a ton. Good news is that the car will start and idle perfectly for about 10 seconds and then die instantly. Bad news is that it still is getting the code 23. I swapped CAS's and I still got the code. The car runs way smoother for its short little bit of life but still dies right away.

My haynes manual doesn't say anything about the CAS alignment WTF so I had no clue. Is there anything else I need to be looking for? I really want to get this ironed out already. Thanks guys.

 

[92awddsm]

I just checked and it actually was turned around 180*, so thanks a ton. Good news is that the car will start and idle perfectly for about 10 seconds and then die instantly. Bad news is that it still is getting the code 23. I swapped CAS's and I still got the code. The car runs way smoother for its short little bit of life but still dies right away.

My haynes manual doesn't say anything about the CAS alignment WTF so I had no clue. Is there anything else I need to be looking for? I really want to get this ironed out already. Thanks guys.

Are you sure the fuel pressure is up when the car shuts off? I swear, it really sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Check the pressure as it is dying and if it is low, check the rubber line at the tank for kinks and if all is good there, test the mpi relay.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263224&highlight=mpi+relay

 

[alex99gst]

I just tested the MPI relay according to the guide you posted. Everything checked out fine except for this part.

"Applying 12v across pins 9 and 6 will cause continuity between pins 3 and 2. (on relays with the second input)"

The relay clicked but I didn't pick up any voltage in pin 2 or 3.

I forgot to mention, but before I flipped the CAS notch around I could hear a constant, random click after the car died that I now believe to be this relay. I don't know what he means by "relays with a second input. Could I snag another MPI relay off a N/T car at the junkyard? Thanks for your help so far Keith. I appreciate it.

 

[alex99gst]

I was testing for continuity incorrectly the first time, so my MPI relay is fine. I guess next weekend I'm going to be pulling apart my wiring and trying to find some more tests to do. Thanks for you help guys.

 

[alex99gst]

I've got a hunch now. If you look at the ECU pins in this picture it shows that the CAS (TDC Sensor) is 3 pins away from the outside.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ecu-harness-1G.html

I recently installed a wideband during my swap and the EGR input is also 3 pins away from the outside of the plug. Hopefully I accidentally tapped into the wrong wire and that is why I'm still getting the CAS CEL. I'll check it this weekend.

 

[alex99gst]

I finally fixed it today. Apparently the vfaq and I were looking at the wiring from different angles. Anyway, it runs now but isn't done giving me trouble. Now it throws the code 12 MAS. This worked fine last weekend and it never threw that code . Oh well, I'm happy that it runs now. Thanks for all your help Keith.

EDIT: Problems solved. It runs awesome.