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car stalls after light boost

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Project_Mayhem@

10+ Year Contributor
73
0
Feb 4, 2011
Las Vegas, Nevada
OK my 97 gs-t is acting funky i have a 14b on 11lbs , tial 50mm bov, fmic, 3" exhaust, and stock injectors. every time i boost like 5 or 6 pounds before taking a corner as soon as in disengage the clutch the car stalls out, or it will drop to 0 rpms and sputter back to life. the car is trowing a p1105 which i looked up and it appears to be a fpr code, but all the vacuum hoses are connected right. I have noticed quite a bit of unburnt fuel at the end of the exhaust and some backfiring. My question(s) are if i get an afc can i tune the stock injectors with it and do i need an aftermarket fpr?
 
upgrade fuel pump if you haven`t, check your stock fuel rail to see if it is still functioning. AFC may help tune a bit, but you are better off upgrading your injectors,

building boost and disengaging the clutch doesn`t seem like fuel cut, maybe a vac leak..


was any of those mods a recent upgrade, i.e exhaust
 
Well since you say it happens as soon as you push the clutch it is more than likely your BOV not being recirculated.

Is it recirculated or not?

If it isn't, that is your issue.
 
im on stock fuel pump. the exhaust is an old mod i had my old bov atmospheric with no problems checked for any vacuum leaks. the most recent mods are the 14b, the tial 50mm bov and front mount. i was looking at a set of 550cc's and an afc. stupid question how do i check my fuel rail pressure?
 
no its not there is no way to recirc sorry. The car will continue to run fine if i pull to 11lbs and let off, its only when I boost to 5 or 6 pounds it will do it. The car is set to 11lbs do to the fuel system being completely stock
 
I'd highly suggest swapping to a recirculative BOV. Then boost leak testing. You may feel like a badass with a VTA bov, but it's only hurting you.
 
Recirculate the BOV and see what happens. My guess is that it will fix it and you will have no more issues.
 
ill see what i can find im a little tapped on cash and unfortunatly dont have much access to the classified section here
 
Your BOV not being recirculated is the reason your car is doing this. More than likely it doesn't have anything to do with the other issues you are listing. This is text book of what happens when you don't recirculate your BOV.
 
Do you have a couple of bucks that you can spend at a part store? You can usually just stare at there hoses of a long time and find one that you can cut up and make work for a recirc tube.
 
I need to find a new bov i have the older tial 50mm although i just saw the 50mm Q recirc on extreme psi

What these guys are trying to tell you is that when you dont recirculate and run a little bit of boost and lower rpms, your blowoff valve opens and lets out METERED air. Since the computer has accounted for this air but, it doesnt make it to the engine, you are running pig-rich. It is practically flooding the engine. You have 2 choices:

1. you can recirculate and problem solved at any rpm as the air stays in the intake track.
2. you will have to change your style of driving until you do #1 by letting off the gas before you push the clutch so that by the time the rpms drop, more of the air will make it to the engine as you closed the intake off before you hit the clutch.

Since my car came with a vent to atmosphere bov too, I have to do the same thing and will change it when I get the time and money. the other thing to do is to up your idle some so it will idle higher and wont go to 0 and be 'forced' back on by letting out the clutch like you are jump starting it all the time. Upping the idle will give you worse mpg and is just a temp fix.
 
iIts the bov.. i did the vent to atmosphere after my rebuilt not knowing the dangers.. car ran amazing and bov sounded great.Other then i had the exact same problem when ever id shift or clutch the car would bog. and the higher the rpm was when i shifted it would bog worse or die. then i figuered out about the bov recerc issue and havent had a single issue since.
 
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