Car stalls after boost

[Cool Mr Steve]

Recently I purchased a 1995 Eclipse GST and I am not sure if I'm doing something wrong. Whenever I get into a good amount of boost (between 10 and 17 psi) and immediately throw it into neutral or depress the clutch right away, the idle bogs way down or dies. Do I just need to not do this? If I put it into neutral right away and tap the gas while it's descending back to idle, it doesn't bog or die. Not shifting directly into neutral seems like a pretty easy fix, but I would like the freedom to do it, probably just because I cant. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Greddy Intercooler/Piping/air filter
HKS Blow Off Valve
Walboro 255 Lph Fuel Pump
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Hallman Boost Controller (about 16-17 psi)
HKS turbo timer
PaceSetter Exhaust Manifold
Custom Stainless Exhaust
Short Shifter with Brass Bushings

 

[DSM90AWD]

HKS Blow Off Valve

if it's not rerouted to the intake after the MAS then your going to stall between shifts.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156825&highlight=BOV+Atmosphere

 

[97gstdroptop]

dude im having the same problem. No one has helped me out really, i have no clue what it is. I know exactlly what your talking about. Please let me know if you find the problem. You can email me at [email protected]

 

[BigDaddy186]

I was having the same problem and yes if your venting the bov it will do this. But My battery terminal must have vibrated loose and every time like you said I would depress the clutch The car would bog or die. Tightened her up and now it runs fine. Just an idea.

 

[90CherryTSI]

I have a 90 TSI and mine JUST started today....if I rev over say 4.5k, the idle drop to like 500 and either dies or catches itself. I thought maybe it was a vac leak b/c if to much air is getting back into the system, wouldn't it cause it to do this? I have a mostly stock set up for now, and it just started this morning. Only thing I did last night was run a compression test. At first I thought a vac line blew off or a hose but I can't find anything wrong. Any check list to try? I built a boost leak tester but my intake won't pressurize so I'm not sure what's going on there.....anyone else chime in?

 

[Cool Mr Steve]

Grrrrr.... I know I should recirculate it, but seriously, it sounds so cool. Is there a mod available that I could install that would allow the sensor to compensate for the excess lost into the atmosphere? Also, I have a small leak in my exhaust manifold... I'm going to get it fixed very soon because the ticking is driving me crazy, but do you think that this could have anything to do with my problem? I also have aftermarket cam gears on it that are zero'd out (not tuned yet), could this be an issue that could affect it?

 

[67goatpimp]

Grrrrr.... I know I should recirculate it, but seriously, it sounds so cool. Is there a mod available that I could install that would allow the sensor to compensate for the excess lost into the atmosphere?

No, recirculate or deal.

 

[FireyIce01]

No, recirculate or deal.

Or setup a blow-through mas/maf setup....

 

[PaleDSM]

Recirculate the blow of valve.

Pressurize the intake system and eliminate all boost leaks.

 

[90CherryTSI]

pressurize the intake if the valves are open? I was talking to someone at work - an ex-import mechanic - and he said you can't pressurize the intake if valves are open but the vfaq on the boost leak tester say nothing about making sure intake valves are closed...? They also say you can use a bicycle pump to pressurize the intake - how is this possible to get enough air in there to stay in there with a bicycle pump and intake valves open exactly?

 

[DSM90AWD]

pressurize the intake if the valves are open? I was talking to someone at work - an ex-import mechanic - and he said you can't pressurize the intake if valves are open but the vfaq on the boost leak tester say nothing about making sure intake valves are closed...? They also say you can use a bicycle pump to pressurize the intake - how is this possible to get enough air in there to stay in there with a bicycle pump and intake valves open exactly?

The throttle body is obviously closed when you do the presurization so 99% of the air is contained in the intake. Regardless.. leaks would be obvious.

I've never tried with a bicycle pump as have a compressor. Making a tester is a $5 trip to Home Depot.

 

[90CherryTSI]

and I am going to take a friend to pick up his car today...maybe I can get the shop to pressurize my intake for me so I can have a look. I thought about the TB, but I also figured that more air than that got through....I guess not...thanks!

 

[uni_gst]

If you vent your bov you're going to stall

thats all

 

[mostapasta]

If someone was having similar problems with the bov recirculated, couldn't the stalling come fromt he egr valve stuck open or being really dirty?

 

[90CherryTSI]

but I do have my BOV recirc'd (stock BOV/piping). My EGR has a hose that connects the two nipples. With out that hose it ran the same as it does now tho....could this type of stalling with the BOV recirc'd be fuel delivery related perhaps? Or what if the TB closed to slowly under load or in gear (if that is possible in my case)? Not trying to hijack, looking for any type of thing to check...it's annoying

 

[Cool Mr Steve]

I think I found a fix for the problem, but I want to hear some opinions. The Apexi S-afc has a Deceleration Air Flow Correction function which is supposedly capable of curing the erratic idle and stall problems associated with open-atmosphere blow-off valves on hot-wire air-flow meter systems. It sounds great, but I want to hear from people who have used it.