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Car smoking...Turbo seals???

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SpankySantiago

Probationary Member
10
1
Jan 9, 2012
Waynesboro, Virginia
Hi...i have a 1994 Galant GS which i swapped a six bolt 4g63 into last year. I only had the turbo block and no turbo head so am using the 4g64 n/a head! Anyway it recently started smoking(bluish white) and seems to be getting worse! Upon start up and until the engine gets completely warmed up it does not smoke and runs awesome! But once it warms up it smokes taking off(more if i kinda get it on it) and it smokes through the top of second then stops about midway through third. It also blows out a huge cloud when downshifting! If i baby it then it doesnt really smoke bad but a lil smoke comes through my heater vents. My brothers...who know a lil more about cars then me...say that the turbo seals are bad or going bad atleast but i figured some other opinions definetly couldnt hurt! Any suggestions would be greatly appriciated...thank you!
 
Sounds like the turbo oil seal is burnt in which case the oil passes threw the compressor wheel leading into the intercooler, then to the intake passed your throttle, and circulating oil/air therefore burning oil/air/fuel mixture in the combustion chambers. It comes out as white smoke. What kind of turbo do you have for it? its really common for stock turbos especially the t-25 and 14b.
 
Check the intake see if there is an oil in there, also you may want to check and see if the turbo has any play on the compressor side.
 
I had a similar issue and my turbo was blown. My 14b at idle didn´t smoke but when I was revving a little, my exhaust started smoking a white cloud. Anyway, firstly check other cheaper elements.
 
Its a 14b...and i plan on taking the intake and exhaust manifold off tomorrow and checking for wet valves and shaft play! If i rebuild the 14b any suggestions on rebuild kits?
 
Its a 14b...and i plan on taking the intake and exhaust manifold off tomorrow and checking for wet valves and shaft play! If i rebuild the 14b any suggestions on rebuild kits?

You have some options. Check these links.


Performance TD05 TD06 12A 12B 14A 14B Turbo Repair Kit | eBay

Or with OEM materials:

Turbo Repair Kit Genuine DSM Eclipse Eagle 1G TD05H 14B | eBay

Anyway in this post talks about rebuild a 14b

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/423818-bad-turbo-how-much-rebuild.html
 
what you discribe is oil burn under high vacume like when you let off the throttle (downshifting) your throttle valve is closed. if it was the turbo you would not get alot of smoke at this point. the high vacume oil burn is your valve guide seals.
 
Quite the contrary, if the turbos main oil seal is blown it will also pull oil passed it in a vacuum situation. Most of the time with a T25 or any TD05 turbo, the seals don't blow just because. Usually its because there is excessive shaft play. Pull your intake pipe off and see if there is excessive up and down/side to side movement of the wheel. If there is, more than likely that's your problem. The typical test for valve seals is to let the car idle down from 4500revs to 2000ish and then accelerate, if you burn off oil after that it usually confirms such, but because the oil seal of the turbo will be included in a such a test, it will not be conclusive.

With that being said, you should never push a t25 over its factory setting - it just is not designed to do such. The TD05 turbos generally spool to higher boost levels, but if you have a 14b, more than likely it will heat the intake charge moreso than create more usable power for you.
 
Turbo's don't continuously leak oil once the engine is turned off. Once the oil stops entering the cartridge, the cartridge is immediately empty...unless you have some sort of oil drain issue.


The valve seals, on the other hand....oil will pool in the front of the head and lay around the exhaust valve seals after the engine is turned off. Old seals will cause oil to seep down the stem of the valve and enter the exhaust port. As soon as you start the engine the exhaust port sees heat, burning the oil that seeped past the seals and causing smoke.
 
yes it will still burn under acceleration. you will notice it more down shifting though. turbo leaks usually smoke the most durring boost. where valve guides will smoke less during boost but still some. thats my experience. the car i have now is my 6th dsm.not saying i know everything not even close, learning new stuff all the time.
it sounds like valve giude seals though let us know.
 
Well I did the easiest thing and took my 2g MAF off and checked the compressor side of my turbo and sure enough there was oil in there! So i went ahead and took the turbo and exhaust manifold off! There wasn't any oil in the exhaust ports like one of you guys suggested.
 
Well you have confirmed that your turbo is leaking as for the oil being in the compressor side. So you know the turbo is deff leaking oil. As its a possibility that it could be both seals and the turbo. The moderator is right if its only the turbo the car should not leak right away upon a cold start, usually smoke at a cold start means your valve seals are bad as he so eloquently explained. Fix the leaking turbo then if it still smokes, your pretty much assured its the valve seals.
 
Well I ordered a rebuild kit. It should be here within the 20th and the 26th. Hopefully this will solve my smoking problem. I also just got a translator for my GMMAF so ill be hooking all that up when i finish rebuilding the turbo!
 
Sick sick, let us know if that fixed the problem! I was thinking seals, valve and turbo....one of the two.
 
Its a 14b...and i plan on taking the intake and exhaust manifold off tomorrow and checking for wet valves and shaft play! If i rebuild the 14b any suggestions on rebuild kits?

I wouldn't try to rebuild it yourself. It is easy if you know what your doing. On the other hand if you don't have that thing "ABSOLUTELY" completely cleaned you are wasting your time putting parts in it. "JusMX141" would charge you I think $150 and it will look brand new and does great work from what I understand.
 
I rebuilt it and I did clean the living sh#t out of it! It is working awesome! However now I have a bad compression ring...its almost like working on it never ends. But when I put new rings in it ima also go ahead and hook up the gm maf and translator!
 
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