Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[DaDeuceIsLoose]

Ok guys thanks for the tips. I replaced the thermo over the weekend and still no help. The fans come on & run string. I did notice however that when I test drove it to see if it was going to over heat again, that there was light grey smoke it was giveing over was coming from somewhere underneith the thermo housing. I did not smell like coolant & I still have no visible coolant loss. Is this where the water pump is? Or could this just be gunk thats built up over time burning off because of the heat? Also I have never changed a water pump on this car, is there anything that I need to know, or would you recommend just taking it to the shop? I'd prefer to save on labor if its a pretty straight foreward job.

Do any of you have AIM so I can ask you some q's? Thanks.

*Edit- Do you all have any tips for testing to see if its going to over heat without driving it? I don't want to get out again and have it not go to the H then all of sudden skyrocket there and I have to drive with it like that for 5 minutes.

 

[andymoraitis]

Deuce,

When the fans come on, does the temperature drop? I'm still leaning towards water pump or coolant temp sensor here and unless those things are checked, it's tough to tell what the culprit is. So you know, the water pump is on the same side as the timing cover (driver's side) and if you've never done one, I'd have a shop do it.

Regarding your last question, maybe you can let it idle. Now, if it doesn't overheat at idle that sounds like a dead giveaway that it's the water pump. Some people elect not to change these when they do the t-belt service every 60K and if they don't, everything has to be yanked apart again to service the water pump.

I'd do that idle test, burp it properly like wannaspoolrs mentioned and then let us know what you find.

Get back to us when you can,

Andy

 

[DaDeuceIsLoose]

I'm not sure if the temperature drops when the fans come on, I don't have a pocket logger yet ( I know, stupid). It does not over heat at idle. I ran it at idle for about 10 minutes & no over heating. I'm going to replace the radiator cap & burp it tomorrow. Is there anyway to check the water pump to see if its working/has ever been changed? I have alittle under 110K on the clock think it would be a good idea to go ahead and get the t belt changed again if I have to get a new water pump? Sorry for all the q's, but thanks guys.

 

[andymoraitis]

No worries on asking bunches of questions. If we can help, then it's all worth it. Based on the fact that you're not overheating at idle, that tells me that the pump may be spinning enough coolant at idle to keep the car happy, but as soon as it needs more serious circulation, there isn't enough. There's no way for me to be 100% positive, but I'm really leaning towards the pump. While you're having that replaced, do the smart thing, like you planned and do the full 120K mile service. I had mine done at the dealer for around $700 including parts and labor since I don't mess with important things like the motor's timing. Also, as far as I know, there's no way to physically check a water pump without removing it, but you may want to verify this with a mechanic you can trust.

FYI, on the burp, I do it a little differently. I'll start with a cold car and run it with the radiator cap off and wait till it opens the thermostat (the water level should drop as you watch it move past the t-stat). Once it drops, add more and then close it up. Check the expansion tank, which should be at the Hot mark and add more if needed.

I don't think it's a burp issue, but you can try it. Let us know what you find out.

Andy

 

[PennStateJoe21]

Ok so the temps are gettin warmer in Pa so I figured that was the cause of overheating on my way home from work the other day. I was wrong so I tried putting a new thermostat in and threw in some water wetter. That did nothing. I added a fan to make up for the lack of air from the front mount...Nothing.. The car will basically surpass its usual 180 degrees and if the heats on it will go back and forth between 195 and 210 sometimes going over 210 but not all the time. It never rests at 180 or any temp for that matter. If the heat isnt on the car gets real hot obviously. Any ideas to what it could be..water pump even though it seems like my coolant is flowing?? Thanks for the help!

 

[dnhieu]

why dont you try taking out the thermostat. the only downsides is that it will take FOREVER for your car to heat up on cold days (the a/c not the engine). plus the car runs super cold. you can tell if your coolant is flowing by taking the radiator cap off (while car is cold) and running the engine. the coolant will clearly flow. if it isnt that i would do a compression check to see what that is like. if you got low compression the reason for overheating is your head gasket

 

[DaDeuceIsLoose]

Well guys I have an update, and a good one at that. I went and bought a new radiator cap today, and I proceeded to burp the car twice. I did it twice because the first time I did it the car began to cool off then all of a sudden jumped back off. The second time I did it the car stayed nice and cool. I even went WOT just to make sure. I am gonna check everything again tomorrow because there are a few other little things I need to do. I'm just thankful that it doesn't appear to be the water pump quite yet (knocks on wood). Thanks guys I'll let you know should the problem reappear.

 

[Defiant]

NEVER run a DSM without a thermostat.

Those are normal operating temperatures. Is it running poorly, or doing anything to make you think there's something wrong?

 

[PennStateJoe21]

The car is running good..The only thing thats wrong is what I explained above with the temp readings...other than that shes running good...Has anyone had any problems with the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor)?? Could that be my problem? I do have a 6 bolt swap if that helps any, but I havent had anything like this happen since the swap 25000 miles ago. Thanks again!

 

[wilfredorivera1]

NEVER run a DSM without a thermostat.

Those are normal operating temperatures. Is it running poorly, or doing anything to make you think there's something wrong?

Sorry if this question is dumb but :
Why shouldnt i run my eclipse with out thermostat ? is it going to harm my engine in anyway?

 

[Defiant]

Sorry if this question is dumb but :
Why shouldnt i run my eclipse with out thermostat ? is it going to harm my engine in anyway?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53076

 

[wilfredorivera1]

Thanks!!!!! I just got my head gasket replace and my mechanic was asking me why there wasn’t a thermostat in the engine. When I asked him why he was asking the only answer I got from him was that I was not going to be a happy camper on winter. Is good to know that the thermostat is use for other things than just helping you in winter time.


Will Rivera

 

[DaDeuceIsLoose]

Problem seems to be solved. The burping/replacing of the radiator cap worked. I have driven it several times, and even made sure to get on it a few times to see if it would over heat, and it stayed nice & cool. Coolant levels are good and constant. Thanks guys, you saved me some money!

 

[Emilio5639]

I have a 95 tsi awd talon. I was driving today and I see no leaks for my antifrieze but my car overheats. It goes to the top, then drops back down, and repeats itself over and over until it doesnt drop as far, then I stop the car. I dont know if its the thermostat, or what. If so where can it be found?

Thanks
Emilio

 

[Staytuned]

I was out today doing some pulls with a buddy and after a really hard 2nd 3rd and 4th gear pull we decide to turn around and head back when I look down and notice my temp gauge is at 135 C. I shut it down because the fans don't seem to be able to cool it off. I noticed that the overflow bottle has spit out quite a bit of coolant at this time because I can see it on the road where we turned around. So we let her cool off and top it up with some water and head off to see if she will do it again. Within a kilometer she starts to rise again even with a full rad it climbs up to 120 C. So I shut her down and tow her home.

Here is what I can tell you so far:

-Coolant was a 60/40 mixture of water to coolant with water wetter added.
-Thermostat opens for me in a cup of boiling water
-Water pump seems to be pumping alright. With rad cap off I can see the coolant surging up to the top and some times belching air while car idles in the garage. Also no weird noise coming from the water pump assembly.
-Top rad hose is hot while the bottom one is cold no hot air coming through heater into car.
-No obvious leaks - all new hoses and new thermostat. Greddy rad cap and new water pump 30 000 kms ago.
-no oil in the coolant and no coolant in the oil. But the coolant was very dark looking but not mixed with oil at all. Kinda muddy looking.
-plugs were all the same color no signs of burning coolant.
-Fans do work


I have not done a compression test as of yet.

 

[Alex_95TSI]

Possible that the coolant isnt flowing well?
Do you usually flush ur cooling system?

Just want to start off somewhere

 

[Alex_95TSI]

I think you should pick up a repair manual at the auto parts store because i think its gonna come in handy.

Its right by the coolant cap connected to the hose

 

[Alex_95TSI]

I think you should pick up a repair manual at the auto parts store because i think its gonna come in handy.

Its right by the coolant cap connected to the hose. Follow the upper hose to the engine where the thermostat is

 

[GTM]

...

Here is what I can tell you so far:
...
I have not done a compression test as of yet.

I would suggest that you properly fill and bleed the cooling system so you do have plenty of heat for this will forever cause problems if you don't get all the air out of the system.

You can do a compression check but if it continues to overheat and pump coolant or water then you should do a block check for a blown head gasket.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[Staytuned]

I thought about this more last night and I think this was one too many pulls with not enough cool down time in between. The continual over heating was probably just the hot coolant from the block being pumped back up out of the block and past the coolant sensor. I did not have time last night to let it completely cool down, refill it and start it up to see if it would over heat again. I will test the compression and refill and let idle to see what she does tonight.

This was all new coolant this spring with water wetter added and a fresh thermostat which I tested and it opens freely. I think I may have some issues with proper cool air flowing over my rad. I still have AC and I also have the FMIC in the way.

Also I think the muddy coolant was the prestone I used. I read that it has silicates in it which can make your coolant look muddy.

 

[elementalwindx]

I'm pretty confidenct I have had a partially blown hg for a lil over a month now but I cant see any mixtures of fluids, BUT I can smell oil in the overflow bottle clear as day. I have no water in the plugs holes, none coming out the exhaust, and none spewing out the sides of the motor, and no water period touching the ground even during a cold start, but I do see constant small air bubbles coming out the rad cap even after I'm done filling up the fluid for 2+ gallons of water...so yea look into that compression check and I'm guessing partially or fully blown hg on your car.

 

[Staytuned]

OK update. The compression test was good it was 180 psi across the board. So I fill her up with water and start it up. It climbs to 230 degrees after 10 mins or so and I shut her down. The top rad hose is hot and the bottom one is still cold. I know that the thermostat works cause I tested it in boiling water in my kitchen. So now I think water pump. I pull the thermostat out and start the car expecting to see water pour out of the water pipe that runs from the water pump ....but nothing. I can see that there is water in the pipe but it is not flowing out to the thermostat housing.

I am pulling the pump tonight expecting to see the impeller grenaded into nothing. That would explain the dark coolant right. This was not the metal impeller, this was an aftermarket pump with a plastic impeller ....quite possible it grenaded right?

 

[Tsi_User]

My car was down for 8 months, it's been up for the last 2 months or so and there's an odd overheating problem. When I drive the car the temp gauge just slowly climbs higher and higher until it's between the 12 o'clock and H area and it sits there. I've driven the car for 20 minutes with this problem, the gauge always goes to the same position and stays there.

-the car has a new water pump, it was replaced last spring
-the coolant was changed at the same time, I didn't have problems however until the last few weeks. The coolant looks very clean and not does not look rusty at all
-no bubbling or anything like that in the overflow bottle
-no signs of leaking coolant, it appears to not have leaked a drop since I put the new water pump in
-new radiator cap installed, didn't do a thing

I checked the radiator hoses, top one's hot and bottom one's cooler. I tried to squeeze the radiator hoses with the cap off to see if thee was any bubbles in the system but there didn't seem to be. The one thing that I did notice was with the car off when I squeezed the bottom radiator hose the level would go down a small amout right where the radiator cap is and I could add more coolant. Id just looked like the coolant was flowinf from the cap to the overflow bottle however. Any ideas of things to check? I'm heading to Ireland on the 9th but would like to get this fixed before I go.

 

[Staytuned]

Well here is the damage. The impeller sheared itself off the pump shaft. No more plastic water pumps for me.

 

[psychlow]

Good pics, and good info. I'm gonna bookmark this thread for those who have the plastic pumps.