Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[Bostedquest]

that's what we are here for

 

[GTM]

...
It's ####ing snowing like a beast, and I not only have no garage, I have no gloves, so i'm taking a quick smoke break, and then I'm going to reconnect everything, refill her, and see if I can't get a car that doesn't overheat with no heat in the car

I'll let you know how it goes, and thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions.
Late,
diab0liK

Beg, borrow, steal, or buy a propane hair curler, they put out more heat than a hand warmer and will make things a bit less unpleasant.

You should have heater unless it's one of the things I previously mentioned.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[diab0liK]

Ok, I decied to say #### it, and spliced the other ghetto flushing tee into the heater hose, if I'm already going to have to replace the upper, what the hell is the lower.

Anyway, being that I can't get underneath, and remove the rad. drain plug, which of the two radiator hoses should I be removing, and on which side, to flush while I let the car run? I have everything set up, battery back in, air inlet connected, etc., just need to figure out which hose is best to flush through, for my situation.

Thanks in advance,
diab0liK

 

[diab0liK]

Ok, well I flushed AGAIN, and then topped off w/ some coolant (probably 70% water, 30% coolant) and I let it idle for about 20 mins or so. Couldn't get the car to get up to middle on the temp guage, but after awhile, some steam started coming from the front of the radiator. With all this flushing, I'm sure there was some water there, but it seems there may be good and bad news.

On the upside, I did have some heat, although not exactly a lot or anything, but SOME, which is huge. Both heater hoses were hot, and the upper radiator hose was hot, however the lower one remained ice cold, even after the radiator was steaming a bit.

This leads me to believe the radiator is what's clogged, which is definitely better than a HG. Do you guys think I should get some of that radiator flush shit, and run it for awhile, and keep my fingers crossed? My car is lowered, so I can't lift it unfortunately right now, or really get under the car for shit. Any chance anyone could point me to a picture of where the cap on the bottom of my radiator should be?

On the downside, my car was making this metallic squaking type of noise, and for a short while, I noticed it was idling at about 1300rpm's, instead of the usual 6-700 or so.

I'm really starting to consider driving this car into the used car dealership where i bought it......and I mean directly into it.

What do you guys think?

diab0liK

 

[GTM]

...
but after awhile, some steam started coming from the front of the radiator. With all this flushing, I'm sure there was some water there, but it seems there may be good and bad news.

On the upside, I did have some heat, although not exactly a lot or anything, but SOME, which is huge. Both heater hoses were hot, and the upper radiator hose was hot, however the lower one remained ice cold, even after the radiator was steaming a bit.

This leads me to believe the radiator is what's clogged, which is definitely better than a HG. ...
Any chance anyone could point me to a picture of where the cap on the bottom of my radiator should be?

On the downside, my car was making this metallic squaking type of noise, and for a short while, I noticed it was idling at about 1300rpm's, instead of the usual 6-700 or so.

I'm really starting to consider driving this car into the used car dealership where i bought it......and I mean directly into it.

What do you guys think? diab0liK

The steam is to be expected, the top hose becoming hot is to be expected, the bottom being cold is to be expected. It's snowing outside... yeow!!

The heater hoses being hot is a very good sign. I am not convinced your radiator is plugged until you do some more checking including driving the car. We discussed they will overheat if the heater core is filled with air... now you are complaining it's too cold and it's snowing outside. Yeow, you don't ask much (a joke)

I think the "radiator cap" you are talking about is the drain petcock. It's frequently white/ivory plastic and usually located close to the radiator outlet hose. Maybe 3/4" across it's hard to spot in all that clutter. It will take maybe 3-4 turns to let any water out, the handle is flat and they can break off. Not a big issue since you can get the bottom hose off.

Drive the car, see if your complaints are still there.

Yes the noises could be related to water pump, belts and or crank pulley coming apart. One thing at a time.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[diab0liK]

Wow, I think I may have managed to fix it. After all this flushing and shit, and after letting it idle for 20 mins or so w/ no problems, I finally decided to take it out for a spin.

Car had good heat, and furthermore, after 10 mins of driving, no overheating. When I got back, the motor sounded hot, but it's snowing/sleeting a bit, so I think the sizzling was just little bits hitting the motor. Upper heater hose was hot, lower hose was warm, and other than that, no leaks or anything that I noticed. I'm going to have to replace the heater hoses, but I'll wait for a good day to do that, when it's not so ungodly cold and/or snowing.

Keep in mind, this was all on a fairly shitty mixture, that I would guesstimate at about 70% water. I'm going to test it tomorrow, and adjust the mixture accordingly, since I have about a 45 min each way drive.

Should I be concerned that the lower radiator hose isn't as hot as the upper one? I *think* that's normal, and that I can actually not worry about this shit for a little while.

Thanks a bunch to all the people who helped me, and I'll actually be able to get some decent pics of my car up once this weather clears a bit. Ah, and on tuesday I'm slated to rewire all the audio in the car (at least car audio is something I actually know how to do properly) and I'll probably try to get some pics of that up as well.

I'm not quite ecstatic about all this yet, seeing as with as much of a pain in the ass as this has been, I'm not quite convinced I'm out of the woods yet.

I'll post back if I have any more probs.

Now to figure out how to drive on 6" of snow, with a car that's only 4" off the ground

werd up

diab0liK

 

[GTM]

...
Car had good heat, and furthermore, after 10 mins of driving, no overheating. When I got back, the motor sounded hot, but it's snowing/sleeting a bit, so I think the sizzling was just little bits hitting the motor. Upper heater hose was hot, lower hose was warm, and other than that, no leaks or anything that I noticed. I'm going to have to replace the heater hoses, but I'll wait for a good day to do that, when it's not so ungodly cold and/or snowing.
...
Should I be concerned that the lower radiator hose isn't as hot as the upper one? I *think* that's normal, and that I can actually not worry about this shit for a little while.

Thanks a bunch to all the people who helped me, and I'll actually be able to get some decent pics of my car up once this weather clears a bit. Ah, and on tuesday I'm slated to rewire all the audio in the car (at least car audio is something I actually know how to do properly) and I'll probably try to get some pics of that up as well.

I'm not quite ecstatic about all this yet, seeing as with as much of a pain in the ass as this has been, I'm not quite convinced I'm out of the woods yet.

I'll post back if I have any more probs.

Now to figure out how to drive on 6" of snow, with a car that's only 4" off the ground

Why don't you come up for air on this, EVERYTHING is sounding normal now, the bottom hose is supposed to be cold, that's how it cools the engine. The defroster/heater is a mini radiator and with it being so cold you are leeching heat from the block and very cold air. I would seriously doubt the fans would even come on.

Sort of anti-climatic when you think about it, low water level, air bubble in heater core and you imagining every possible evil has struck your car. We don't want to be reading about you stuffing this in a snow drift. The radio stuff can wait a few days, give it a rest, same with the hoses you had to cut, just make sure the clamps are tight. I don't know if we can handle the strain when you hook some wire up wrong.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[diab0liK]

heh,

If you're wondering why I've been so concerned, look down a bit in the prob diagnosis, there's a few other posts I was on, and I had a LOT of ppl (including moderators) telling me that I clearly had a BHG. I didn't want to believe it, and I'm glad I didn't.

I am going to double check all those clamps, and I actually need to get a new clamp, for the heater inlet hose, since the POS one that was on there broke while I was tightening it back on. Other than that I'll just get around to replacing the heater hoses sometime soon, as soon as the weather clears up a bit, and other than that, things are seeming fairly gravy.

And as far as me being in a ditch, I only spun her out once driving around the neighborhood.....what you talkin' about willis?

Thanks again, and cheers to you sir, I'll smoke to that

Lates,
diab0liK

 

[GTM]

heh,

If you're wondering why I've been so concerned, look down a bit in the prob diagnosis, there's a few other posts I was on, and I had a LOT of ppl (including moderators) telling me that I clearly had a BHG. I didn't want to believe it, and I'm glad I didn't.

I am going to double check all those clamps, and I actually need to get a new clamp, for the heater inlet hose, since the POS one that was on there broke while I was tightening it back on. Other than that I'll just get around to replacing the heater hoses sometime soon, as soon as the weather clears up a bit, and other than that, things are seeming fairly gravy.

And as far as me being in a ditch, I only spun her out once driving around the neighborhood.....what you talkin' about willis?

Thanks again, and cheers to you sir, I'll smoke to that

Lates,
diab0liK

Actually a BHG is well within reason to include in this diagnosis, when they leak the bubbles go into circulation and some collect at the heater core thus loosing heater is one of the signs. Usually though water loss is another big complaint along with temp gauge fluctuations and the heater coming and going. Sure it's possible to get a large variety of ideas, some being urban legends and unskilled diagnosticians. You just have to wade through that which doesn't make sense which can be difficult for a lay person. I try not to dispel ideas unless I know them to be completely wrong or causing misdirection especially if it involves sums of money or time.

I certainly wasn't rejecting the BHG but I wanted more methodical elemination of the simple fixes which would lead to logical conclusions when possible. I've seen plenty of mechanics sell a head gasket only to find out the thermostat was stuck or a water pump was cavitating and sucking air.

I think you have it licked, you could experiment with cardboard in front of the radiator to block of some of the cold air and get your heater temps up if it's still not warm enough going to work. Do get the antifreeze to the proper concentration but the rest can wait a while. You have put in a few gruling hours under adverse conditions and need to enjoy the fruits of your labor. You could when you are comfortable the radiator isn't blocked add some aluminum powder stop leak, this will help neutralize some of the electrolysis.

Take care, watch out for hard hidden objects in the snow.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[diab0liK]

Well, after driving for about 45 mins w/ no probs, she heated up again. Didn't pin hot, but I immideately noticed lack of heat, and after 5-10 mins driving after she'd been sitting for 40 mins or so (after that 45 min driving) started to get hot again. I didn't have a clamp on the heater inlet hose, and I think my thoguhts on the concentration were off, probably closer to 90% water, and the overall level was low. When I got home, it was steaming out where there was no clamp, and after cooling down, and whatnot, I put on a new clamp, and put in 1/2 gallon of antifreeze. I then had to add another quart or so of water to get it all topped up.

I then drove it about 15-20 mins, and then it sat for awhile, and drove for another 15, give or take, no problems or fluctuations. I'll keep my eyes peeled for any other signs, but if I have further problems, I think the combination of high water percentage (which would obviously heat up much faster) combined with low overall fluid level, and the fact that there was a missing clamp, for the steam from the boiling water to escape led to that issue.

If I have any further problems, I'm thinking it's got to be a leaky heater core, or something, b/c if it was a BHG with as much as I've been driving it, I think there would be quite the smoke cloud following me around, especially considering how much coolant I've been putting in her.

After topping up and everything, no noticeable problems as of yet, but we'll see.

Thanks again, and I'll let you know if I have further "complications"


diab0liK

 

[GTM]

Well, after driving for about 45 mins w/ no probs, she heated up again. Didn't pin hot, but I immideately noticed lack of heat, and after 5-10 mins driving after she'd been sitting for 40 mins or so (after that 45 min driving) started to get hot again. I didn't have a clamp on the heater inlet hose, and I think my thoguhts on the concentration were off, probably closer to 90% water, and the overall level was low. When I got home, it was steaming out where there was no clamp, and after cooling down, and whatnot, I put on a new clamp, and put in 1/2 gallon of antifreeze. I then had to add another quart or so of water to get it all topped up.
...
diab0liK

I'm gonna thrash you within an... you are flirting with insanity not checking and double checking hose clamps. My son pulled the same nonsense even AFTER I asked him specifically about the heater hose clamps. He ruined the new head gasket when the hose blew off in 25 miles of driving.

Fortunately for you it's cold so hopefully it didn't get too hot but it's silly things like that which can teach you real lessons.

I wouldn't worry about concentration levels and cooling, only that it doesn't freeeze. I doubt you could read the difference between straight water and proper mix on your gauge.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[diab0liK]

no, I knowingly drove around w/o a clamp on that bad boy. It wasn't gushing or anything, it didn't pop off, I just had to drive to the store to get the clamp. It wasn't steaming or anything before I was on my way back home, which is where i was planning to, and did put it on.

I hope that's all it is, although I did just go out there, and topped it off with a tiny bit more coolant, since it was full when hot when I filled it before, I think having to add a tiny bit is normal, however I'm going to keep an eye on it, to see if it keeps going down.

If that's the case, I resume suspecting the damn heater core, and if all else fails, everybody's good friend mr. HG.

tks m8

diab0liK

 

[Bostedquest]

you will probly be seeing small amounts needing to be added for a little while, as bubbles work there way free.

The only way to really solve it is to run the car on a serious incline (nose up) to get the HC below the rad cap.

Also, if the HC was bad, you'd have a nice puddle inside the car...

 

[v8s_are_slow]

problem: exactly what the topic says. overheating at low speeds. 0-45 mph. highway speeds, it's fine.

things i've tried to do to fix it: fluidyne radiator, two 12 inch slimline fans (one a pusher, one a puller....one on each side of the radiator), 180 thermostat, swapped to a 160 thermostat, new waterpump, replaced head gasket, replaced again with a mitsu metal hg and arp's and shaved head. all new hoses, new radiator cap. fan's run constantly while car is on. i'm outta ideas other than cutting the bumper to get more air cause of my dejon front mount. but would think i wouldn't have to do that. surely not everyone has to do this. anyone have any clues? i've replaced everything there is to replace. thanks! ready to drive it off a cliff

scott

 

[diab0liK]

Yeah, that's what I was thinking too, figured w/ as much coolant as I've run through this beast, it would be good and proper soggy in there by now.

Thanks for reassuring me a bit

diab0liK

 

[FunkMasterChipZ]

well my engine was overheated back in september and at first it was only the lifters that were making noise so i replaced those and now a bigger problem has arisen. it makes an even worse noise now and its like a muffled banging kinda like piston slap and the engine wont run for more than 30 seconds, and also my exhaust manifold is cracked now too in the number 3 flange...im thinking its some valves cause i heard this horrible pinging noise when i cranked it over one time. what do u guys think?

 

[laxdudeee]

a compression check will tell you all you need to know

 

[Bostedquest]

Yeah, that's what I was thinking too, figured w/ as much coolant as I've run through this beast, it would be good and proper soggy in there by now.

Thanks for reassuring me a bit

diab0liK

yeah I mean the thing that everyone seems to forget when they start loosing coolant... it has to be going somewhere...
Inside the car, outside the car, in the engine... all of which are pretty easy to spot.
H/C will give you a nice maple smell, or throw steam out the defroster.
Lines will leave puddle everywhere on the ground...
Engine will give you steam...

What goes in must come out... somewhere, somehow... things just "do not disappear"...

And I think I finally have a line on a later 92/93 Eclipse!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! N/T Auto 2.0... but not for too long...
I will run my built engine N/T untill I get a AWD 5 Speed and parts... then it will turn into a beast... go from the poorest performing pathetic thing, to a AWD monster over the course of 4 days... (after I get the parts that is)

 

[v8s_are_slow]

alright, i cut the front bumper pretty good. the size of my intercooler so it has PLENTY of airflow now. at highway speeds it sticks at 162-165 or so (tonight anyway). once i had to turn down my road and drove at about 25 mph for the mile it took to get here, it started going up again. it got up to 209 and finally i just shut it down. with a 160 degree stat, i know it shouldn't be getting anywhere near that high. does anyone have ANY ideas??? i'm all outta ideas other than just getting a new freakin car. i'm stressed the f**k out. need help please!!!

 

[Ottoman]

sorry i'm sure u've thought of this, what what fluid are u using in the rad?

distilled water+water wetter will yield the best cooling effeciency...
(assuming ur not in sub zero temps of course )

ur push/pulling right infront/behind each other? that might actually hinder performance... try staggering them...

do u have ur heat shield still on?


oh u can also try the "drifters hood"

u'll see it on all the Japanese drift cars, I plan on doing it on mine when my front mount comes...

basically u put big rubber spacers in the hood hinges so that the back of the hood is "raised" the heat all comes out and up and over the window of the car when driving, and when at a stand still it just raises out rather then being trapped

 

[v8s_are_slow]

sorry i'm sure u've thought of this, what what fluid are u using in the rad?

distilled water+water wetter will yield the best cooling effeciency...
(assuming ur not in sub zero temps of course )

i'm using "peak" if you've heard of that one. i've been trying to research on tuners right now. cause i'm wondering. i know some gm cars take that orange crap or whatever. what the difference is i dunno. but anyway, this stuff was kinda orange as well but it was already a 50/50 mix. and it said safe to use with all color coolants. but after remembering that it was kinda orange, it's been making me wonder. maybe that's the problem cause i don't know of anything else it could be. where can i get water wetter? never heard of it before. thanks!

scott

 

[Ottoman]

i'm using "peak" if you've heard of that one. i've been trying to research on tuners right now. cause i'm wondering. i know some gm cars take that orange crap or whatever. what the difference is i dunno. but anyway, this stuff was kinda orange as well but it was already a 50/50 mix. and it said safe to use with all color coolants. but after remembering that it was kinda orange, it's been making me wonder. maybe that's the problem cause i don't know of anything else it could be. where can i get water wetter? never heard of it before. thanks!

scott

btw i edited my last post incase u didn't read the last part..


those 50/50 mixes basically have Anti-freeze and other chemicals to prevent the water from freezing and the internals from rusting... BUT they reduce the cooling effeciency..

PURE h20 has one of THE best cooling co-effecients... but it has to be PURE, not tap water.. which contains many minerals....

adding a couple caps full of water wetter, which modifies the cooling co-effecient.. U can find it online.. maybe at ur local Autozone and stuff...

 

[v8s_are_slow]

k thanks. i'll just drain the coolant i have in there now and run water in it till i can get to town. get me some distilled water i guess. i'm in florida by the way. also, yes my fans are staggered. i'll post an update though as soon as i try it out and see what happens.

on a side note, does anyone know what the deal is with the organe colored coolant that goes into some of the gm cars? what's the difference there? suppose to cool better? lubricate or something. i dunno. just wondering why you can put that stuff in other cars. hmmmm.....thanks!

scott

 

[Defiant]

When was the last time that 11-year-old radiator was boiled out?

I don't recommend doing without "anti-freeze", which besides lowering the freezing point of water, raises the boiling point, contains water pump seal lubricant and conditioner, and fights corrosion -an accumulation of which in the radiator may be why yours isn't keeping up with its cooling assignment like it should, and the lack of which is why other tuned DSMs don't have cooling issues.

In areas where freezing isn't a threat, 30% antifreeze is the best ratio. Dump that PEAK crap and get a jug of 50% (or, "pre-mixed") Prestone, and a couple of gallons of distilled (not "drinking" nor "mineral") water from the grocery store. Put in the pre-mix first, and the rest water, and you'll be close to that 30%.

DSMs have no heater valve to open, nor do they need "burping". It'll dump any air in a few heat cycles, just top-up the overflow jug.

Don't bother with any of this until you've had your radiator cleaned out by a radiator shop.

I do go along with using distilled water in cooling systems. Then again, the water that comes out of the taps in my town is crunchy, so perhaps I'm biased.

How old's that thermostat?

How old's the radiator cap?

 

[v8s_are_slow]

thanks for the advice but if ya look at my first post, you'll see about my radiator, etc. and it's all new. ALL of it. going to town this morning to get some new antifreeze. i'll post an update.