Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[NHerron]

Have you used a coolant flush additive like Prestone or the like? Buy yourself a few gallons of distilled water. 2 cheap bottles of flush and drive a few days with the additive/distilled water in. Running distilled water short term will not damage anything.

Also get a new radiator cap, one that is 13psi. Your symptoms are similar to a bad cap

 

[DSM_Newblet]

Have you used a coolant flush additive like Prestone or the like? Buy yourself a few gallons of distilled water. 2 cheap bottles of flush and drive a few days with the additive/distilled water in. Running distilled water short term will not damage anything.

Also get a new radiator cap, one that is 13psi. Your symptoms are similar to a bad cap

I also forgot to mention I already replaced the rad cap . I've literally done everything for the cooling system. Radiator is the last thing to be replaced. I figure might as well just place it. I'm just having a hard time on deciding whether to go oem or aftermarket...

But I will also try what you said and flush it with that additive.

 

[NHerron]

Are you loosing any coolant at all? That includes checking the overflow as well as the filler neck

I can't say on that one, I have yet to replace mine

But make sure to look into shrouding options. I know you can get a full shrounding kit for the fan assembly. Not sure on the results of those though

That's if the OEM fans aren't able to be reused on the aftermarket radiator.

 

[DSM_Newblet]

Are you loosing any coolant at all? That includes checking the overflow as well as the filler neck

I can't say on that one, I have yet to replace mine

But make sure to look into shrouding options. I know you can get a full shrounding kit for the fan assembly. Not sure on the results of those though

That's if the OEM fans aren't able to be reused on the aftermarket radiator.

Yeah when it gets hot sometimes the overflow tank bubbles up and spills out a little but isn't that normal when overheating occurs?

And I already have aftermarket fans but I don't think there are shrouds, they are just zip tied to the radiator

 

[NHerron]

Most aftermarket fans don't pull nearly as much CFM compared to stock fans. Plus the stock fans have a shroud built into them to cover the entire radiator. The shroud helps in pulling fresh air from the opposite side of the radiator instead of recirculating nearby engine bay air

I'm not familar enough with the shrouding kits but I know I've seen them on eBay before. It's basically plastic that covers any part of the radiator which isn't taken up by the fan itself. I would also do some shrounding between the FMIC and condensor, that will help overall cooling as well.

I remember how PX was, I lived in Deer Valley for a few years and damn I bet it's a real chore keeping a turbo engine cool down there!

 

[DSM_Newblet]

Most aftermarket fans don't pull nearly as much CFM compared to stock fans. Plus the stock fans have a shroud built into them to cover the entire radiator. The shroud helps in pulling fresh air from the opposite side of the radiator instead of recirculating nearby engine bay air

I'm not familar enough with the shrouding kits but I know I've seen them on eBay before. It's basically plastic that covers any part of the radiator which isn't taken up by the fan itself. I would also do some shrounding between the FMIC and condensor, that will help overall cooling as well.

I remember how PX was, I lived in Deer Valley for a few years and damn I bet it's a real chore keeping a turbo engine cool down there!

Yeah but idk if the oem fans will fit with the j pipe off of my evo 3 big 16g without a skinnier radiator... and yeah it gets hot as hell, thank goodness my a/c works

do you know where i can get oem fans and shrouds?

 

[DSM1G90]

Clogged radiator - full of gunk to plug up the tubes..

 

[NHerron]

Well the OEM fan/shroud is integrated into one. And this is the type of radiator shrouding for aftermarket fans I'm speaking of. It's just to get the idea across, I would imagine a little free DIY wouldn't be too difficult, provided you have the tools/imagination

I have an OEM radiator, stock 2G exhaust manifold and Evo316G. My OEM passenger side fan fits just fine, it seems I lucked out on a very good fitment steel J-pipe. It's the drivers side that's a problem, it typically melts the fan since it's so close. With that said, I have heard some J-pipes make fitment for the OEM fans tough. But I can take measurements/pictures for you if you want, just PM me.

You can pick up OEM fans anyday of the week via the classifieds for pretty cheap.

 

[DSM1G90]

..or the yards.

 

[oxisafox10]

OP, do you have any updates on your issue?

I actually haven't tried anything since I started this thread. I haven't been driving much and when I do drive, I just take the heat and roll with the windows down. I was also on vacation, away from my car for a while so couldn't try the basics

 

[NHerron]

^True that

 

[filabob1]

you can have the radiator boiled out, or get a new oem or mishimoto radiator. also since you live in PHX you can change your coolant mix to mostly distilled water and try adding some water wetter. stock fans kick ass btw. if this is all done you might want to look at your ducting.

 

[Breezio69]

My passenger side fan is OEM with a tiny bit of the fan support carved out (the spider leg looking pieces
on the back of the fan) to fit my 16g j pipe, then a slim fan with no shroud on the drivers side. I had similar problems that nherron helped me fix. Ended up being a pin hole in my overflow line, bad waterpipe o ring and a loose hose clamp on a heater core line in the engine bay.

Also, my water pipe o ring would not drip until the car was shut off and the system was depressurizing, found that odd.

 

[DSM_Newblet]

I decided to go with the cxracing radiator with 12" fans and shroud for $270 with high hopes that this will solve my overheating problem. I will also be running 70/30 coolant and if this doesn't work I'll get a evo style hood, do some ducting and even tho I REALLY don't want to I may consider cutting into my front bumper.

I may consider water wetter. It looks legit. It won't clog my system or anything will it?

 

[NHerron]

Extremepsi has it and so does eBay

And WW basically conducts heat much better than water or coolant does

Red Line Synthetic Oil - WaterWetter® Coolant Additive

 

[Cruz67]

I posted before that my car was overheating at highway speeds. Since then I've changed the thermostat pressure tested the cooling system. And changed the radiator cap.

Now I've just got home and noticed the the driver side fan won't turn on. And the fuse that is labeled vent a/c is blown. Is that the one for the fan?

It is currently ~106* out here.

I've also seen where I could wire my a/c fan to kick on when my radiator fan does. I could not find a write up on this.

Any insight is greatly appreciated

I also have all stock heat shealds and no fmic

 

[dewoof01]

why not just replace the fuse and see?

 

[WES_393]

2G Fan Relay Bypass: How To - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com

 

[weaponx122412]

I agree, replace the fuse & see what happens. The fan motor could be drawing too much current as well causing the fuse to blow.

 

[DSMnOOb00]

How do the spal fan compare to the eBay fans? I'm having this same issues with over hearing with the ac on. I have eBay fans with a shroud and now I'm thinking I should upgrade to the spal fans with radiator ductung

 

[cophotoguy]

First, a car should ONLY overheat when the A/C is turned on and the car is stopped at an idle.

Second, if this isn't the case, you messed something up your not telling us about. I had a similar issue in my Xterra, I put my cold air intake behind the radiator. After moving it up three inches it fixed my AC problem.

 

[WES_393]

First, a car should ONLY overheat when the A/C is turned on and the car is stopped at an idle.

It should never overheat. That's the point of the extra rad fan just for the A/C. I would sit in my Spyder for an hour on lunch break with the A/C on and outside temps being well over 100*. Temp gauge has never made it past halfway.

 

[cophotoguy]

It should never overheat. That's the point of the extra rad fan just for the A/C. I would sit in my Spyder for an hour on lunch break with the A/C on and outside temps being well over 100*. Temp gauge has never made it past halfway.

I get the occasional overheating when the A/C is full blast stuck on a Denver highway at 98 degrees for over an hour.

I am a stickler and watch my gauges though, as soon as it is close to 3/4 of the gauge I turn off the A/C. My Honda does the same thing, under those circumstances.

 

[boost97gst]

Listen, simply sealing my ac/rad with hvac alum tape and using a 170*tstat sropped my idle WAY down. With both fans turned on full it will hit 175 to 180 with ac on anywhere while idling. My duct work isnt in yet, but the seal helped even on the highway. I never see past 213 now even at 75mph w ac. With a simple scoop from the bottom of the IC to the bottom ac condenser bracket i expect never to see past 200 on the hwy. Ducting and sealing is where its at.
Oh, im still on 50/50 as well. I should switch to about 70/30 and thatd bring temps down even further.
Remember to heat wrap everything as well. I still have stock heat shields in place

 

[DSMnOOb00]

Well I don't overheat at idle, but if I drive the car for more then 3mins with my ac on full blast in 100+ degree weather, my temps shoot up like a junky on payday