Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[Silver99OZ]

Have you done a compression test?

 

[this_tsi_8urV8]

It's either the radiator, clog, or air in the coolant system.

 

[AndrewTT]

Does at any point go back to normal temperature...
Explain everything...
It heats up when driving and when you stop, still overheating???

Okay. When I start the car cold it the gauge rises to proper temperature idle then after about 5-7min pass it very slowly moves up. Driving obviously prolongs this because of the air moving across the engine. But its gradual it doesnt just sky rocket to red. Now before I replaced the thermostat it would immediatly rise.

 

[Alan11]

Okay. When I start the car cold it the gauge rises to proper temperature idle then after about 5-7min pass it very slowly moves up. Driving obviously prolongs this because of the air moving across the engine. But its gradual it doesnt just sky rocket to red. Now before I replaced the thermostat it would immediatly rise.

Check for any leaks...leaks on the heater core hoses are hard to find so make sure...
if the problem changed when you change the thermostat maybe the thermostat doesn't work it happens..also air in the cooling system...

try little things first then move on to the big stuff....

 

[AndrewTT]

Check for any leaks...leaks on the heater core hoses are hard to find so make sure...
if the problem changed when you change the thermostat maybe the thermostat doesn't work it happens..also air in the cooling system...

try little things first then move on to the big stuff....

okay. How would i go about getting air out of the cooling system? I will go get another thermostat

 

[Absit]

Fill it, heater on high/high, thermostat opens and fluid level drops, fill it again, burp the hoses, fill it again, etc.

 

[kspharris]

Look for leaks first. If you find 50 leaks fix them but still buy a rad cap. It's gasket has got to be on it's last leg.

 

[AndrewTT]

Fill it, heater on high/high, thermostat opens and fluid level drops, fill it again, burp the hoses, fill it again, etc.

Okay sorry this may sound dumb but burping hoses?

Look for leaks first. If you find 50 leaks fix them but still buy a rad cap. It's gasket has got to be on it's last leg.

I'll get one tomorrow

 

[this_tsi_8urV8]

Is the car really losing coolant? If no, then it shouldn't have leaks.

 

[Alan11]

Pull thermostat and check it by boiling it in water and seeing if it opens fully. Buying a new one along with the cap, Cheap and easy fix .if they don't work return them..

For the air pockets i did this...but please be very careful
Remove the cap (when the engine is cold) from the hosing, fill it all the way. Now, turn on the car, add coolant/water as needed until gauge reads normal. Replace cap, turn off car, add coolant/ water in resorvir to max line. Take a spin around the block, it should suck up whatever else it needs to fill up. Turn off car, refill resorvir (DO NOT take the cap off of the thermostat housing!!!)...
This is very dangerous..please make sure other stuff are god before doing this..

 

[AndrewTT]

Is the car really losing coolant? If no, then it shouldn't have leaks.

nope not loosing anything

 

[rhodes2010]

I am going to throw in my 2 cents. Please apply as appropriate.

I maintain five different vehicles and have learned over time a few things.
One is that cooling systems are actually pretty simple.
As long as the radiator fins are clean and free of debris.
The pump vanes are good.
The radiator tubes are not clogged.
The electric fans operate, and the thermo switches activate them as expected.
And of course the thermostat behaves correctly and is installed.
Shroud material really should be installed.

I also learned that factory engineering is not accident and leaving things out is probably not a good idea.

In my particular case I live in a desert area that can have 100 plus farenheit temps and a car needs to idle in traffic congestion . with AC going full blast ,
and not overheat.

One time we were in 114 ouside temps (no joke) and with AC going the engine stayed perfect.

My point is it can be done. Generally, I never add leak stop additives anymore
(these seem to clog legitimate galleys and paths and radiator tubes).
I do make sure the radiator fins are bug and debris free. (biggest problem for me).
The bug and debris thing leads to high temps under load and quick drops when idle, slow or load drops.

When I find a car that overheats I find no thermostat at all, a bad thermostat, or one installed backwards.
Fins that are clogged and blocked.
Passages in the block not allowing free flow (least , but possible problem).
No fan installed (been removed or disconnected).

There's more, and you actually have most of it covered.
The last one is making sure the guage is correct.
I use a non-contact laser or infrared thermometer to check engine heat too.
Often the guage and sensor simply are not doing their job.
Sometimes I put a good old mercury thermometer in the radiator
water and check it.

 

[Tanro]

Sounds like you have a warped head.

 

[96talon_njj]

the head was just replaced when the motor was pulled. im just not sure what else it could be.

 

[Fotowntalon]

Do you have air in your cooling system? Try burping it. Also any misfires or are you running rich at all?

 

[Tanro]

Okay going on the fact the head was replaced.

Was the head check for warp?

How about the block?

Did you do the work? How well did you clean the surfaces?

Did you reuse head bolts?

Anyways. Check your coolant for compression by opening the filler or overflow (not sure what a for 420a engine bay looks like hah) and sniffing the water/coolant. Does it smell like gas/exhaust fumes?

Yes:
You are leaking compression.

No:
Have you had your cooling system rodded? When you flush it, does the water come out in a constant stream or does it at some point chug or burp? Or just stop flowing and then start again. You might have an obstruction.

Other things to check would include but not be limited to.

Heater Core
Coolant Pressure cap.
Coolant hoses.
Cracked End/side tanks (the plastic bits on some radiators) If they are cracked they can expand and contract with temp and allow small amounts of air in.

It sounds like you have an obstruction, or are leaking air/compression into the cooling system.

 

[marshall_308]

Make sure you crack open the allen head plug on top of the thermostat housing. It may strip so be careful. But let all air out until there is no more bubbles and only straight coolant comes out. I had the same problem on my rebuild along with a warped head that caused issues.

 

[mazda-man]

Could also have a issue with the sending unit for the gauge. They are in the thermostat housing and do get corroded from coolant. Just another thing you can check also make sure the electrical connections are good and clean.

 

[dalesmitsu]

Burp, the cooling system at that thermostat get all air out. You flush/fill the I assume you did this.

Replace your coolant sensor and switch, if previous owner and you didnt replaced thses can be part of the problem. Little item like a sensor/switch can be over looked, save you the pocket book/headache.

You mentioned it was rebuilt.
Do a leak do test to see if the HG (head gasket) is leaking.

 

[96talon_njj]

the kid that i bought it off of said the temp never went past half. and i flushed the system and bled it too. the coolant looked clean to me when i changed it. so the head isn't warped i don't think. and i just changed the oil and there didn't appear to be any coolant in the oil. the system isn't leaking anything. when i opened the cap and had it running the coolant was over flowing and the thermostat never opened until it got really hot. the cap seems to be sealing so i have no idea. i haven't replaced the temp. sensor yet. i'll check the hoses to seem if any has a clog in it.

 

[mazda-man]

If the thermostat didn't open and the temp gauge was reading hot then I would lean towards you have a bad stat or possibly the wrong one or you could just have a lot of air somewhere trapped that is causing issues.

 

[nek]

You said you bought a 180 but havent put it in yet? What are you running now?

Sounds like your tstat isnt opening as much as it should or your coolant mixture is off.
The thermo gauge reads the lower sensor which means the coolant running after going through the radiator is a tad hotter then it should be. Hense when the fan comes on, it cools back down.
I bet adding a tad more water would help you out.

 

[96talon_njj]

i bought the 180F thermo but it hasnt got to me yet. im going to try and bleed the system again for air

 

[apedog]

My car was overheating really bad. Just replaced the radiator and a brand new thermostat. I pulled over and turned the car off and now the car would not start. It acted like it wanted to start but it sounded like I have no compression.
My fault for overheating but im confused why it wont start.

Anyone help

 

[2GFWDbeast]

If its just turning over and not starting it could be your power transistor could have come loose. Also your ecu. My car one day wouldn't start just turn over. Swapped out ecu and it started right up. Not saying thats your problems but i would check those 2 things if your car is just turning over.