The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If your car is severely overheating the first thing that you should do is stop driving the car, your only risking serious damage by letting it overheat. Have you done a leakdown or compression check yet?

i ran the compression check and it came up to 90 psi for the middle left..100 psi middle right and around 105 psi for the far hand right.. i was unable to remove one of the spark plugs because it was jammed (far hand left one)

it looks like im double under the recommended 195-210 psi.. i figured the headgasket corrupted because of the overheating

im not sure what causes smoke to come up from under the intake manifold.. i guess im just going to replace heaadgasket + water pump + timing belt (since it has never been replaced yet)
 
i ran the compression check and it came up to 90 psi for the middle left..100 psi middle right and around 105 psi for the far hand right.. i was unable to remove one of the spark plugs because it was jammed (far hand left one)

it looks like im double under the recommended 195-210 psi.. i figured the headgasket corrupted because of the overheating

im not sure what causes smoke to come up from under the intake manifold.. i guess im just going to replace heaadgasket + water pump + timing belt (since it has never been replaced yet)

My guess is the fact that your HG is blown and you are seeping coolant out and burning off the hot engine, creating smoke...

Sounds like the car is trying to cut it's own wrists.
 
Just make sure that once you get it back up & going that you verify everything works properly. You might have been able to save a headgasket job with a $20 junkyard fan in this situation....
 
My guess is the fact that your HG is blown and you are seeping coolant out and burning off the hot engine, creating smoke...

Sounds like the car is trying to cut it's own wrists.

i figured it was from the headgasket, is there any way to tell if my water pump is any bad at all from this? my car was overheating before however, after it kept overheating it starting showing smoke... im not sure what caused the overheating in the first place
 
Did you ever verify the fan was coming on? At idle the radiator has no airflow so it needs a working fan. Either way your in for some work so just make sure you verify everything afterwards, and in the future shut it down RIGHT AWAY if it gets hot. I say RIGHT AWAY because it gets hotter after shut-down from the coolant not circulating, so right away. I've replaced way to many motors for people that just needed a radiator or fan, so don't feel bad, it happens.
 
I think you misread that, I should have worded it that I've replaced way to many motors with blown headgaskets because they needed a radiator or fan. I'm aware that he's pulling the head, just want to make sure he takes care of any future or still present overheating problems.

Either way your in for some work so just make sure you verify everything afterwards
 
Also, if the car starts to overheat at idle, turn the ac on. This will kick the 2nd fan on.

Had to do this yesterday. Sat at a drive thru and noticed the temp was really high. I had a feeling that my coolant temp sensor was going bad so I turned on the ac because the primary fan wasn't turning on.

I'm going to change it tomorrow morning. I'll let you know if that sensor is the culprit.

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk
 
I just bought a 1996 talon and it has the motor rebuilt and bored out .002 over. 2 1/2 inch exhaust and intake. once i start the car in the morning the temp. goes up fairly quickly and it stays at just below half. then after driving it for about 5 mins. the temp goes up to about 3/4 then back down to half. keeps doing this after i changed thermostat and flushed the coolant system. what could this be??
 
yeah. i think. i bought a new thermostat that opens at 180F but i havent put it in yet. im not sure what else it could be. i replaced the water pump and oil pump and head. so the motor is brand new. maybe like 5k miles. and nothing leaks at all
 
If it moves a little its not a problem. Mine is doing this too but for a differnet reason. To me it sounds like ## fans are coming on a little late. If you leave your a/c on does it to the same thing?
 
I have a 1999 mitsubishi eclipse and it slowly reaches the red marker when driving. I've replaced the thermostat and the sensor already what else should I do?

Could something as simple as a radiator cap do this or is this more than likely the water pump?
 
I have a 1999 mitsubishi eclipse and it slowly reaches the red marker when driving. I've replaced the thermostat and the sensor already what else should I do?

Try a new water pump, a radiator flush, followed by adding new coolant. If all that fails, you may need a new radiator.
 
Don't drive it anymore..!!!

check you hoses you heater core hoses too..Radiator cap, fans turning on, any coolant leak, Check for water in the oil(signs of bad head gasket)..
..i see you changes the thermostat already so if none of those work, ultimately your water pump or head gasket need replacing...
 
Don't drive it anymore..!!!

check you hoses you heater core hoses too..Radiator cap, fans turning on, any coolant leak, Check for water in the oil(signs of bad head gasket)..
..i see you changes the thermostat already so if none of those work, ultimately your water pump or head gasket need replacing...


I don't have water in my oil. The car has 160,000 miles on it is the cap even worth buying or should I just go with the water pump. It stay cool for a bit and then very slowly moves up so I was thinking maybe the cap due to the lack of pressure. Both fans work by the way
 
so No leak of any kind???
Buy a cap from auto zone of it doesn't work return it..
Also some thermostats come defective, i went through three in my old 420 about a month ago..

It was heating up extremely fast then I just replaced the thermostat now it heats up alot slower thats why I was thinking maybe its the cap and not the whole water pump.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted Looking for T25 replacement
    2G, preferably a t28 or t25
    • Mando Vee
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Manual Shifter Cables
    2G Manual Shifter Cables $85 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to see element.
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Factory radio brackets
    Looking for some factory radio brackets.
    • jesse12345
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM COMPLETE A/C UNIT
    Came off a bone stock 1G, won’t be using. Good for anyone that’s looking to go back to a/c or...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G AWD OEM Grey Hatch Carpet
    2G AWD OEM Grey Hatch Carpet $40 + shipping and paypal fees* Great condition with backing...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top