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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
coolant doesnt "cool" as good as water. you are better off running a only 30% coolant try "water wetter" its a Redline product.

do you have coolant comming out of the overflow? if so you may have a partially blown HG
 
i just went thru the same issue tried everything before pulling the head, pulled the head and the headgasket was gone. try doing a block test to see if ## getting combustion gasses in ## coolent. its cheap to buy the tester autozone has them for $25 and the blue juice is $10 bucks just my 2cents
 
Added the driver side slim line fan the only 1 i could fit. Took it for a cruise under some boost came back 5 mins after freeway popped hood and the fans are pulling tons of heat! I mean roarin like a torpedo heater in the garage, in the winter time. Seems like the stock radiator cant keep up anymore, has anyone ever experienced this after big upgrades? BTW stock passenger fan is still in, that things a beast compared to slim line fans. Does an aluminum radiator make that much difference?
 
Added the driver side slim line fan the only 1 i could fit. Took it for a cruise under some boost came back 5 mins after freeway popped hood and the fans are pulling tons of heat! I mean roarin like a torpedo heater in the garage, in the winter time. Seems like the stock radiator cant keep up anymore, has anyone ever experienced this after big upgrades? BTW stock passenger fan is still in, that things a beast compared to slim line fans. Does an aluminum radiator make that much difference?

Flush out your radiator with that radiator flush stuff.
 
Hello everyone, ive been around these forums for a while now but ive just mostly lurked around and got my answers by searching. Well now ive stumbled upon a problem i havnt been able to figure out.

I have been looking at purchasing a 91 eagle talon tsi with 130k miles that has been sitting undriven for about 2 years now. The car isnt the prettiest thing ever, its got hail damage and a couple good dents on the driver side but the interior is in good shape and it has a new transmission and he is only asking 200 for it.

Now heres the problem. The reason he parked the car is that after warming up and driving for a few miles the car would start to slowly drop oil pressure and start overheating. Now the only thing i noticed was there was quite a bit of oil leaked out of the valve cover and he said that had started a while before this problem but this wouldnt cause oil pressure loss would it?

Now he says he has talked to a mechanic about it and was told it was most likely a bad head gasket but ive never known a head gasket to cause a loss of oil pressure. Im starting to think it is the oil pump going out or maybe a spun bearing but i would like to get some other thoughts on it before i decide to buy it. Any help is appreciated thanks guys
 
Aluminum fans make a pretty big difference due to the fact that aluminum releases heat faster then other metals. Also you were previously asked if you had any fluid coming out of your overflow? I had an issue similar to this and it ended up being a junk radiator cap (went with the mishimoto 1.3bar) and once replaced it worked out great.

also maybe if you removed all the blue lining you have it would make a difference. Atleast the lower piece. this will allow the air traveling underneath your car while driving to pull heat away from the radiator and engine as well. Just my thoughts of advice.
 
coolant doesnt "cool" as good as water. you are better off running a only 30% coolant

+1

"Coolant" isn't a coolant. It is an Antifreeze liquid and corrosion preventer.

Flush the radiator, fill at least 50/50 distilled water to antifreeze. If you want to REALLY cool the engine, fill with 70% distilled water and 30% antifreeze (coolant).

EDIT:

Forgot to mention, sometimes you may notice the fluid is low, but you are not sure what's leaking - which COULD be an indicator that your water pump is about to fail. If the water pump seizes, fluid will start pouring out of the weep holes, and the timing belt might snap.
 
It could indeed cause a loss of oil pressure.

Oil pressure is always higher when the oil is cold and a bad headgasket will leak worse when warm.


Higher pressure will always go to lower pressure.

Lets say your oil pressure averages 30psi between 2k-3k rpm while at the same time your coolant system will be at a max of 15psi. your oil will always want to bleed off its higher pressure into the cooling system of lower pressure and it can do this with a bad headgasket/warped head.

In the process of oil mixing into your coolant you could have easily spun a bearing and/or killed the oil pump.

But on a side note $200 for a shell is semi good shape is pretty good
 
Thanks for the input. I would be happy to get away with just having to replace the headgasket instead of the oil pump so hopefuly that is the only problem.
 
could not having an antifreeze overflow tank cause my engine to overheat??? lately its been running pretty hot. how hot do everyone elses 1gs run?
 
Not having an overflow tank can cause overheating. When the coolant gets hot is expands and needs a place to go, the surge tank. When it cools, the system pulls a vacuum and pulls coolant from the tank back in the system. With no tank it is pushing coolant out, but pulling air back in the system.
 
As the topic says, my 1g 6 bolt is overheating pretty bad with just normal driving. (Nothing over 4psi boost). I have already replaced the radiator, thermostat, cap, water pump, and all cooling lines. I replaced all these items after this problem started. Right now, there is a 192 degree thermostat, but I have already tried a 180 and a 160. They both did not help anymore than the 192. Now what has me thinking the turbo is bad or going is..... When I got to work this morning, the manifold was glowing red hot. This was after 1 hour of driving, mostly back roads and about 8 miles interstate. The temp seems to run higher at interstate speed (70 mph). I do have an FMIC, but I have never had this problem before now. I have cleaned the FMIC and the radiator which where not really dirty at all except for a few bugs. I am using 2 slim fans that run all the time when the key is on. As for the turbo, which is an EVO 3 16g, is about 1.5 years old and was used when I bought it. I have "pushed" it quite a bit as well. While the engine is running, all coolant stays in. When I turn off the engine, it begins to spill out of the overflow. I did recently do a compression test and all cylinders were within 5psi of 140 degrees with the engine warm. There is no oil in the coolant and there is no coolant in the oil. When I recently replaced the water pump, the inside was a copper color which makes me think that the bushings in the turbo are gone. Last but not least, I do not have a CAT since we don't have inspections around here and it opens things up more. :)

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
Herm turbo causing over heating, :/... Just some dump comments, make sure your fans are pulling the right way.
Make sure you have the right coolant to water mix. (more water in your system transfers heat faster but coolant is needed for increased operation temp/corrosion protection)
Make sure your system is pressurized. (pressurized system helps with operating temps as well)
Overheating at speed vs idle helps narrow things down. (If you are not over heating at speed then usually the fmic blocking air isnt the main issue)
Things like water wetter/ hood vents/ ducting etc are very helpful "band aids" to keep ya going.
As for the turbo causing overheating, dunno.
 
Currently, I have more coolant than water since I bought 2 gallons of the straight coolant and used it when I replaced my water pump.

The engine is not overheating at idle but it also does not go down once it has gotten hot.

The timing is exact since when I replaced my water pump thinking that was the problem, I pulled the timing belt like you should and reinstalled it. After I reinstalled it, I checked the alignment of the oil pump, crank and both cam gears multiple times. I did use a straight edge across the cam gears to ensure they were aligned properly. I have no balance shafts so that is not an issue.

Would a head gasket issue cause the manifold to glow red hot with easy driving and no abnormal smells or smoke out of the exhaust and still show good compression?? I have even gone WOT and no smoke or loss of coolant or oil.

I checked my timing last night and it was exactly 5 degrees BTDC. I am stumped!

Well, I have gone back over everything and still cannot find any issues. Is it even possible the turbo could be causing this problem? I really don't want to spend $400 to $600 on another turbo and come to find out it was something else.
 
thanks guys! i ordered one today for my 1g hopefully it solves the problem, ive been carrying around a gallon jug of water n my backseat just n case LOL
 
Post and Let us know if this solves your Overheating issues. Likely should from the description of your problem. Hopefully as simple as the overflow.
 
Its going to be your head gasket if thats good then make sure you get all the air bubbles out of your coolent system if its still bad then you could have a bad head.
 
ok, so the head gasket is more than likely my problem?

Just to ensure I have this correct, the head gasket could still be bad even if :
The compression is 140 + / - 5psi at warm temp.
No coolant is in the oil
No oil is in the coolant
No smoke or strange smells are coming out of the exhaust.

I have blow a few head gaskets in the past and when they went, oil or coolant was everywhere, compression was shot, and / or smoke poured out the exhaust.

The thing that has me boggled is the car runs perfect, no stutter or loss of power, but the manifold glows red after about 1 hour of easy driving. It does heat up fast from cold as well. Full temp in about 2 miles of driving.
 
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