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Car jerking very hard above 2,000 RPMs under load

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I would try checking your battery terminals and wires. I had a bad positive connection and it would do the same thing. Rev engine fine in nuetral but try to drive it and it would shut off. I noticed the positive connection was bad, moved the wires and it got me home. Changed the connector cleaned the terminal, no problem since. Hope it helps:talon:
 
i do not believe it would be making significant boost at 2000rpm to cause the jerking affect. If it was jerking maybe closer to boost range it might be the problem. just my .02Cents

In between these "jerks" its like the ignition is cut or something, and my check enigne light comes on for a few seconds like it does when you first turn the key, the light does not throw a code, it just comes on because I am guessing the ECU momentarily lost power.

I do not believe a boost leak would make the car shut off, maybe lose power and cause jerking.
 
Boost leak.

Yeah, your wrong trust me. The car isn't even making boost when this happens, nor does the car "sputter" as if it were a boost leak. This is straight up VIOLENT shaking. Also, the tachometer does not "jump" with a boost leak as it is doing here. This is at part throttle, while I am just trying to accelerate to the next gear.
 
Yeah, your wrong trust me. The car isn't even making boost when this happens, nor does the car "sputter" as if it were a boost leak. This is straight up VIOLENT shaking. Also, the tachometer does not "jump" with a boost leak as it is doing here. This is at part throttle, while I am just trying to accelerate to the next gear.

Okay.
 
Is the car losing power after the jerk? I mean lose power as in shuts off. from your original post it sounds like the car is dieing completely not just losing acceleration. I dont believe the maf would cause the car to shut off, it may cause similiar driving conditions but i dont believe it would cut ignition
In between these "jerks" its like the ignition is cut or something, and my check enigne light comes on for a few seconds like it does when you first turn the key.
Just trying to help diagnose.
 
Yea, OP why dont you search swapping the tranny. My buddy has a nissan 240. He swapped from A/T to M/T ... his car ran like crap till he replaced the ecu. BUT im not possitive if you have to swap the ecu. It just makes sense to me... 5 gears to 6 gears is a big difference right?

Search
 
i had an axle back in the day that messed up .. . the u-joint on the engine side of the cv-shaft actually broke the c-clip that was holding it together forcing the ujoint all the way to the end of the shaft, and that caused a horrible violent shaking in first and reverse... i stopped and pulled it all apart on the side of the road, and saw what happened... but listen to the other guys too about your maft
 
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