CAR is dead neeed some help...

[killab443]

I recntly got a used transmisson and new clutch installed in my 92 fwd turbo eclipse. Install appears ok. My friend dropped the car off to me and told be there was some problems with the way the engine was running . I start it up and try it out and valves are tapping to hell and the engine is struggleing to stay on. Turbo isnt making any boost at all but I checked it the turbo is spinng fine with little play. So i bring the car back out after messing with a few things(hoses and clamps), and showed no signs of improvment. A little down the street on my way back I felt someting in the engine give out(no pop or anything) Just the engine cutting out and my car died and I pushed it to the side of the road. When you turn the engine over it seems like its not getting any compression at all. All you hear is the sound of the starter motor and see everything spinning like it should,(cams,crank, ect) just no compression. My guess is the headgasket, but I dont no why the valves would have tapped before the gasket going. Could it be the timingbelt? The belt appears to be intact and tight aftert taking the cover off and checking it.
Please help me out I dont know were to start on this project

 

[killab443]

Here they all are

 

[BUCK]

DAMN! Worst case scenario! - my guess is Rod might be OK - I take it the Head is DOA - Other 3 Pistons look great - very little Carbon - When pulling all the Pistons keep individual Rod caps & rods together of course - plan on Cylinder Hone, Ring & Rod bearing job - & strip Front Case for the Oil Pump Mod.

That Water Pump looks pretty damn original - Nothing shiny about the Tensioner Pulley I see either...

Check EVERY Coolant Hose - those Heater hoses are a bi*** to get at normally - they are easy to swap out now...

Even the Fuel Filter will never be easier - If yours is original like mine was - It makes a HELLUVA diffference.

I changed out Knock Sensor because I knew I didn't want to ever do it with the Head on...

& This is the best opportunity you'll ever have for a Big Time Engine Bay Cleanup so get a lotta HD cleaning crap..

Been there Dude - Fun, Fun, Fun

Here's the Filthy Pig I started with...

 

[killab443]

Yes this is gunna suck. So im going to have to fit the piston rings right? Do you know were I can buy 1 piston? Also your profile says that you dont have vacume lines on the throttle body, what exatly do those vac lines do

 

[BUCK]

Well for the first time BE GLAD you are NOT AWD! Believe me it adds an ASS of work underneath to pull the Oil Pan & I mean an ASS of work!

The only thing that'll Suck is that this thing will run so damn good when you are done THEN you'll wish you HAD AWD! It will scream like a freaking ape.

The Rings are thin & go on quite easily by hand. They can be "tucked" into the bore by hand carefully but easily without a Ring Compressor IMO.

Mitsu or most of our Vendors will glady sell you one Piston & Pin Assembly - about $60, a Machine Shop will have to press the old Pin out & new Pin in ($6) - be cognizant of the orientation between Piston, Rod & Crankshaft.

- I take it you have a good Manual for all the various Torques, etc...

Connector Rod Bearings come in a set of 8 pieces so don't screw up & order 4 like I did then Freak Out when it came to over $300 (they took the other 3 sets back).

Don't be surprised if you need a new Harmonic Balancer if yours is original - about $100.

While we are spending money this is a GREAT time for a 2G Exhaust Manifold (about $200 from Mitsu).

I don't know what state you live in so if you have local Neo-Nazi emmision laws take that into account - My Vacuum lines are per Tabboo @

http://www.taboospeedshop.com/emissions.htm

You'll need a few sets of those various size Vacuum caps & maybe some more of those teeny Vac line Clamps (Aftermarket parts).

I did a few other Mods while I was in there - Throttle cable re-routing (really cleans up the Engine Bay) & Power Steering Return Line re-routing (gives you a LITTLE more working room around the Lower Timing Cover, all the Accesories & Front Case) - pix in my Gallery.

 

[killab443]

Ok weere can I pick up and manual also can you get the pin on the piston to contract by getting it cold?

 

[BUCK]

Ok weere can I pick up and manual

My Factory set from Mitsu $100 - E Bay has had the same set as little as $15 - IMO Haynes is a confusing POS - FAR, FAR worse than the Factory Manual.

also can you get the pin on the piston to contract by getting it cold?

Not NO but HELL NO - My #1 Rod was bent, & maybe my #4 - So just for the Hell of it I beat the SH** out of my Number 1 Wrist Pin with a 4 Pound Sledge & a good big flat punch - the Sumbitch laughed at me - didn't budge - so don't bother - I REPEAT - where I live about $6 labor for a Machine Shop to press out - another $6 to press it in - be cognizant of the orientation between Piston, Rod & Crankshaft. I bought all new Rods & Pistons, Someone had tried to compress gasoline in my Talon before I bought it.

 

[RoasT BeeF]

I am in the middle of a complete engine rebuild and am doing 2g pistons. If you need a stock 1g piston make me an offer. Its already pressed off the rod so all u will have to do is take to to the machine shop and get it pressed on yours. Let me know.

 

[dets]

update!?!



this is a good thread, i'm interested to see how this works out.

 

[BUCK]

Yowzuh - I had great plans fo' the Killabee - now I can only hope & pray he's out there Stingin' sumthin... Sumwhere up in that Great Beehive in the Sky...

 

[theslacker2]

yo man that sucks. sorry to hear about the car. i just had a rod bearing disenagrate. so i did a full 6 bolt race motor swap. is your car a 6 or 7 bolt? if its a 7 bolt i can give you a piston that is already on a rod. just pay the shipping. hope every thing works out.

 

[killab443]

I got pistons and a remanufactured head. Pistons were 25 head was only 200! The pistons turned out to be overbore pistons and the skirts wont fit. But how does the piston have the same marksing/numbers as the ones in there? its a 6bolt but thanks

 

[NAT01]

Yup, I just finally got a look at my #1 piston spark plug too today. It's not as totally bown away and mangled as killabee's though. Just the end piece was burnt away. Looks like I'll be saving for a rebuild. I'll try and take a "look" at the pistons too ASAP. My mechanic "tried" to give me some advice and said "once you get everything fixed, I would sell it and "wipe my hands clean of it". I didn't want to piss him off or anything, but the words "what the F*CK?!?!!?" were racing through my head. He thinks that a rebuild won't be good enough and it might blow again. Well, I guess that's what you get when your mechanic is a 1970's V-8 Chevy/Ford freak. What do you guys think? I really would like to keep the car. I think it's just the ignorance of these older "old school" fellows that don't want to learn anything new that are trying to persuade me another way. Thanks guys

 

[theslacker2]

i say you get a new mechanic. to me the story you just told sounds like he isnt confident with his work. and good luck with everything killa. sweet deal!

 

[NAT01]

The thing isn't that he's not confident in his work. It's that he isn't confident in working on vehicles that he know nothing about. There for he refers to them as "shit boxes". It's because he has no idea on how a 4g63 works. That is why he agreed with me that I should bring to a fellow that knows the specific engine. In case there are any guys here on the board from Scranton area, I'm going to bring it to a place over towards Wilkes-Barre. It's called Performance Enigineering. The guy there knows how this engine operates. And I know of at least one other member who can testify to his great work there. I hope everything works out for you killab. Keep us updated. I'm outta here.....