Car dies when grounding timing through link

[gsexxx]

Hey guys, I have a question regarding ignition timing. I dialed in my 1650cc injectors and at idle everything looks good except my timing varies from 7*-17* at idle. Before dialing in my injectors I verified that my ignition base timing was at 5* using a timing light. Now, when I attempt to check timing and check the ground timing box in link, the car dies.

When I start the car with the timing grounded, the car dies as soon as the front o2 cycles. I have read that it is normal for timing to bounce around during idle but 17* seems a little high. I have also read that the car will run rough when grounding timing through link, but it shouldn't die.

Has anyone experienced this issue? Thanks in advance.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Sounds like you have the car dialed in with the idle set as far away from where it needs to be as possible. You may need to negate a bit of your tuning - go back to default, and set the injectors to where the vehicle will simply start. It's liking taking that much timing to -just- keep it running so when you ground out to base timing it's dying as it cannot keep the vehicle running with that degree of ignition timing. Back up a few steps, set the base idle, and then worry about finely adjusting it. Move one step at a time.

Post us a log, also.

 

[gsexxx]

XiKeiyaZI - Not sure what you mean by "Sounds like you have the car dialed in with the idle set as far away from where it needs to be as possible". So you are saying that I should redo my idle tuning and dial in my injectors again? To my understanding, everything seems to be right on spec in my log except that my timing is high. I could be wrong, but I wouldn't think I would need to go through that whole process again.

The log is too big to attach on here so here is the link to a thread i posted on the link forums. The second log is the most updated, however it does not show the car dying when i grounded timing. I ended the log before that happened.

ECMTuning User Support Forums

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Well what I mean, in a nutshell, is that your idle is dialed in to be 'proper' with the timing you're seeing. When you drop that timing to base, it's so far out from what it needs to idle that it simply can't. You have to find a bit of a median to work with, especially with larger injectors, in your global and deadtime values so that you can still idle and set your base timing. Once the base is set you're good to fly with whatever fuel adjustments you need to make. I had a similar issue with the Talon due to some unforeseen idle issues and a leak here and there. I had to play with my fuel values a tad bit until I could get my base timing set.

 

[gsexxx]

Ok gotcha. I am still pretty new to tuning and I appreciate you taking the time to explain it. I will do that tonight. Thanks again!

 

[Boostdriven]

Just wanted to add to what XiKeiyaZI said but a bit more detailed.
Make sure your car is fully warmed up. You will need to log ISCposition so set the idle property. If your not already logging ISCposition then you need to go to captured values and make sure that its selected to be logged, then go to displayed values and make sure its selected to be displayed. Start a new log and let the car idle. At idle your ISCposition should be about 30-35. If its higher, then you need to back out the BISS screw a little bit. Start with one turn and look at what ISCposition shows, adjust it until it drops to about 30-35.

It will help if your air/fuel ratios at idle are relatively stable and close to 14.7 With the size of injectors you have, your global should be around 70-72% with dead time between 425-475, of course that will vary from engine to engine but that should give you an idea to start with. It will help if you display in the log STFT (short term fuel trim) and combinedFT, this will give you an idea of what your ECU is doing to maintain 14.7 air/fuel ratios in closed loop.

Here is a link that explains what to look for when you setup your air/fuel ratios.
quickieafsetup [ECMTuning - wiki]

There is allot of useful information at ECMlink.com under knowledge base, those guys took allot of time to explain what does what and how the ECU works.

 

[gsexxx]

Just wanted to add to what XiKeiyaZI said but a bit more detailed.
Make sure your car is fully warmed up. You will need to log ISCposition so set the idle property. If your not already logging ISCposition then you need to go to captured values and make sure that its selected to be logged, then go to displayed values and make sure its selected to be displayed. Start a new log and let the car idle. At idle your ISCposition should be about 30-35. If its higher, then you need to back out the BISS screw a little bit. Start with one turn and look at what ISCposition shows, adjust it until it drops to about 30-35.

It will help if your air/fuel ratios at idle are relatively stable and close to 14.7 With the size of injectors you have, your global should be around 70-72% with dead time between 425-475, of course that will vary from engine to engine but that should give you an idea to start with. It will help if you display in the log STFT (short term fuel trim) and combinedFT, this will give you an idea of what your ECU is doing to maintain 14.7 air/fuel ratios in closed loop.

Here is a link that explains what to look for when you setup your air/fuel ratios.
quickieafsetup [ECMTuning - wiki]

There is allot of useful information at ECMlink.com under knowledge base, those guys took allot of time to explain what does what and how the ECU works.

Thanks for the clarification. My isc varies from 29-31 so it should be fine. The equation for calculating global on ecmlink and the global calculator on link put my global at -59% and my deadtime is at 840 and my fuel trims hover around 0% and the idle is solid. Do you think I should lower the global towards the percent you recommended and lower my deadtime?

Here is a link to the log I took this morning. The second log I posted is the most recent. ECMTuning User Support Forums

Thanks again

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Just wanted to add to what XiKeiyaZI said but a bit more detailed.
Make sure your car is fully warmed up. You will need to log ISCposition so set the idle property. If your not already logging ISCposition then you need to go to captured values and make sure that its selected to be logged, then go to displayed values and make sure its selected to be displayed. Start a new log and let the car idle. At idle your ISCposition should be about 30-35. If its higher, then you need to back out the BISS screw a little bit. Start with one turn and look at what ISCposition shows, adjust it until it drops to about 30-35.

It will help if your air/fuel ratios at idle are relatively stable and close to 14.7 With the size of injectors you have, your global should be around 70-72% with dead time between 425-475, of course that will vary from engine to engine but that should give you an idea to start with. It will help if you display in the log STFT (short term fuel trim) and combinedFT, this will give you an idea of what your ECU is doing to maintain 14.7 air/fuel ratios in closed loop.

Here is a link that explains what to look for when you setup your air/fuel ratios.
quickieafsetup [ECMTuning - wiki]

There is allot of useful information at ECMlink.com under knowledge base, those guys took allot of time to explain what does what and how the ECU works.

Good information! Thank you! >.< Work requires time and I didn't have more than a couple of minutes at a time to go into detail. People like you keep this site going 'round.

 

[Boostdriven]

Thanks for the clarification. My isc varies from 29-31 so it should be fine. The equation for calculating global on ecmlink and the global calculator on link put my global at -59% and my deadtime is at 840 and my fuel trims hover around 0% and the idle is solid. Do you think I should lower the global towards the percent you recommended and lower my deadtime?

Here is a link to the log I took this morning. The second log I posted is the most recent. ECMTuning User Support Forums

Thanks again

I don’t have a way to open your log, I don’t think I have an account at ECMlink or at least I don’t remember my user name and password anyways as far as know 1650cc injectors would require like -72% (450/1650-1=72%) and dead time around 450 but I’ve seen that to be not true. I’ve ran 1550cc injectors before and I had my global set at -62% but according to the formula and the calculator in the ECMlink it should have been -70% so as long as your fuel trims are good and your airflow/rev is relatively close then you can leave the global alone. One thing I’ve learned that sometimes you can’t have both global and airflow/rev set to where you think it should be and sometimes it’s one or the other. As long as your car runs good where things are set then I wouldn’t worry about it too much. BTW what kind of injectors are those and are you running a MAF sensor or SD? Do you have bigger then stock cams, if so what’s your vacuum at idle?

Another thing you can do is intentionally advance your timing and then ground it through ECMlink, doing this will make the actual timing more the 5* and hopefully that will keep the car idling then slowly retard it and see what happens. This might give the ECU some times to compensate for the drastic timing change when you ground it out.

If you can post one of your saved logs so I can open it on my computer with ECMlink program.

Good information! Thank you! >.< Work requires time and I didn't have more than a couple of minutes at a time to go into detail. People like you keep this site going 'round.

And thank you sir, I appreciate the words of encouragement

 

[gsexxx]

I don't have a way to open your log, I don't think I have an account at ECMlink or at least I don't remember my user name and password anyways as far as know 1650cc injectors would require like -72% (450/1650-1=72%) and dead time around 450 but I've seen that to be not true. I've ran 1550cc injectors before and I had my global set at -62% but according to the formula and the calculator in the ECMlink it should have been -70% so as long as your fuel trims are good and your airflow/rev is relatively close then you can leave the global alone. One thing I've learned that sometimes you can't have both global and airflow/rev set to where you think it should be and sometimes it's one or the other. As long as your car runs good where things are set then I wouldn't worry about it too much. BTW what kind of injectors are those and are you running a MAF sensor or SD? Do you have bigger then stock cams, if so what's your vacuum at idle?

Another thing you can do is intentionally advance your timing and then ground it through ECMlink, doing this will make the actual timing more the 5* and hopefully that will keep the car idling then slowly retard it and see what happens. This might give the ECU some times to compensate for the drastic timing change when you ground it out.

If you can post one of your saved logs so I can open it on my computer with ECMlink program.



And thank you sir, I appreciate the words of encouragement

I am still running a MAF sensor but will be switching to speed density in like a week. The equation for dialing in injectors for 1650's on e85: 450 / ( 1650 / 1.49 ) - 1 = 450/ 1107 -1 = -0.59% That is taken from ecmlink's website. That is what I currently have my global set to and my dead time is at 840. It idles and cruises good but I am getting a lot of knock throughout a pull. Do you think that lowering my global and deadtime would help with the knock? I have br7es plugs gapped to .024. My timing table is at the stock values and at wot my a/f ratio is around 11.8. I can attach a log tonight when I get off work. I am going to try to raise my idle and loosen the biss screw enough so that the car won't die when I ground timing thorugh link so I can verify that my base timing is at 5*.

Thanks again for your help guys, I really appreciate it. I need to get her running good and switch to speed density before my tuning date on the 31st.

 

[Boostdriven]

I am still running a MAF sensor but will be switching to speed density in like a week. The equation for dialing in injectors for 1650's on e85: 450 / ( 1650 / 1.49 ) - 1 = 450/ 1107 -1 = -0.59% That is taken from ecmlink's website. That is what I currently have my global set to and my dead time is at 840. It idles and cruises good but I am getting a lot of throughout a pull. Do you think that lowering my global and deadtime would help with the knock? I have br7es plugs gapped to .024. My timing table is at the stock values and at wot my a/f ratio is around 11.8. I can attach a log tonight when I get off work. I am going to try to raise my idle and loosen the biss screw enough so that the car won't die when I ground timing thorugh link so I can verify that my base timing is at 5*.

Thanks again for your help guys, I really appreciate it. I need to get her running good and switch to speed density before my tuning date on the 31st.

My bad, I didn't realise that you were running e85 so you are correct on the global settings. Dead time will vary from car to car and style of injectors so just set it to where things work best. If you lower the global few % basically adding fuel then you should be able to drop your dead time a bit, not saying that it will help but it might be worth a try.

If you post up a log I'll try to take a look at it tonight and go through your timing map and preset your fuel values in maxoctane. I'll post up a saved file that you should be able to just open and copy to your ECU. You might have to do some adjusting to the timing table to fine tune it to the car. With those two tables set you should be able to convert to SD and strictly tune your car with the VE table. It's not as complicated as it can be intimidating there is allot of good information on ECMlink website under knowledge base, if you haven't read through that yet then you should go through it, it will give you a very good idea of how things work. If you read through that already and need some more detailed information then let me know and I'll try to help you out.

 

[Jon91TSi]

I am still running a MAF sensor but will be switching to speed density in like a week. The equation for dialing in injectors for 1650's on e85: 450 / ( 1650 / 1.49 ) - 1 = 450/ 1107 -1 = -0.59% That is taken from ecmlink's website. That is what I currently have my global set to and my dead time is at 840. It idles and cruises good but I am getting a lot of throughout a pull. Do you think that lowering my global and deadtime would help with the knock? I have br7es plugs gapped to .024. My timing table is at the stock values and at wot my a/f ratio is around 11.8. I can attach a log tonight when I get off work. I am going to try to raise my idle and loosen the biss screw enough so that the car won't die when I ground timing thorugh link so I can verify that my base timing is at 5*.

Thanks again for your help guys, I really appreciate it. I need to get her running good and switch to speed density before my tuning date on the 31st.

Are your 1650's Bluemax injectors?

 

[gsexxx]

My bad, I didn't realise that you were running e85 so you are correct on the global settings. Dead time will vary from car to car and style of injectors so just set it to where things work best. If you lower the global few % basically adding fuel then you should be able to drop your dead time a bit, not saying that it will help but it might be worth a try.

If you post up a log I'll try to take a look at it tonight and go through your timing map and preset your fuel values in maxoctane. I'll post up a saved file that you should be able to just open and copy to your ECU. You might have to do some adjusting to the timing table to fine tune it to the car. With those two tables set you should be able to convert to SD and strictly tune your car with the VE table. It's not as complicated as it can be intimidating there is allot of good information on ECMlink website under knowledge base, if you haven't read through that yet then you should go through it, it will give you a very good idea of how things work. If you read through that already and need some more detailed information then let me know and I'll try to help you out.

OK cool, I will post up a log tonight when I get home. Thanks again for your help!

And yes they are fic bluemax 1650's.

Also, I forgot to mention that I am having trouble starting my car when it's cold. Sometimes it starts right up, and sometimes it takes a few cranks. Sometimes it makes a TERRIBLE, loud noise when attempting to start it which scares me. Perhaps my fuel filter is becoming clogged since I just switched to e85?

Hey I was finally able to ground timing without my car dying. I had to play around with deadtime and raise the idle. Now my base timing is at 5*. At idle, everything looks good except that my rpms bounce around 950-1150. Here is a short clip of the log.

Thanks a lot for your help guys!

Here is a link to the full log and a cruise log: ECMTuning User Support Forums

Isc settles at 30. Combfueltrims hovers around 0%. TPS is at .63. Running narrowband sim. Have the idle set to target 950 rpms. Br7es plugs gapped at .024 (on e85). As far as I know, I have everything set up correctly at idle so I am not sure why the idle bounces around. I am looking for a catch can with an fittings so I can connect the breather line from the vc to my fp intake which has a bung welded in for a -10 an fitting. I currently have the breather on the vc vented to atmosphere, could that be contributing the rpm trouble?

 

[Boostdriven]

What do you have done to your engine that is not stock other then injectors?

I went through your timing and set it to where you should be able to run with e85. It might be a bit aggressive on the top end but you can always bring it down if it knocks once you boost on it. I also preset your maxoctane table, you shouldn’t have to mess with that anymore. I have it set like that on my car and the only changes that I ever do is to my VE table. I also made few changes to your BaseTipInTPSAdj, that should give you a better throttle response, and I raised the values on InjBAtteryAdj and hopefully that will cure your starting problem. It’s hard to guess what will work and what will not without being there and actually seeing how that car reacts, just try to save those things to your ECU and see if it changes anything.

As for your VC breathers going in to the open air, well I don’t think that has anything to do with your idle. If you’re running a stock MAF then you want it to read 100% of the air that’s going in to the engine and if you add a line from your catch can to the intake pipe then that will be a source of unmetered air that will enter your engine. Let me know if those changes I’ve made help you out any. I’ll keep an eye out on this thread for any updates from you.

 

[gsexxx]

What do you have done to your engine that is not stock other then injectors?

I went through your timing and set it to where you should be able to run with e85. It might be a bit aggressive on the top end but you can always bring it down if it knocks once you boost on it. I also preset your maxoctane table, you shouldn't have to mess with that anymore. I have it set like that on my car and the only changes that I ever do is to my VE table. I also made few changes to your BaseTipInTPSAdj, that should give you a better throttle response, and I raised the values on InjBAtteryAdj and hopefully that will cure your starting problem. It's hard to guess what will work and what will not without being there and actually seeing how that car reacts, just try to save those things to your ECU and see if it changes anything.

As for your VC breathers going in to the open air, well I don't think that has anything to do with your idle. If you're running a stock MAF then you want it to read 100% of the air that's going in to the engine and if you add a line from your catch can to the intake pipe then that will be a source of unmetered air that will enter your engine. Let me know if those changes I've made help you out any. I'll keep an eye out on this thread for any updates from you.

Thanks again for taking the time to help me out, I really appreciate it! As for the engine, its a 6 bolt 2.3 stroker with forged internals, 2g head with fp2 272 cams, mhi 20g w/ tdo6 comp cover on e85.

I only had about 5 mintues to look at the tables you sent me before I went to work. They look great and will give them a shot tonight when I get off. Last night I did some wot pulls and was getting knock throughout the pull. I tried gapping my br7es plugs from .028, .026, .024, .022, with no change. I have been doing some reading and I think I am going to try some bpr7es plugs and gap them tighter. My timing table is at the stock values so do you think that is why I am getting knock? I just don't know why I am getting this much knock on e85 at 15psi.

I remember you saying that you couldn't access the link forums but if end up figuring out your loggin info here are some logs: ECMTuning User Support Forums

 

[Boostdriven]

Here I am thinking that you have a close to stock motor when in fact you have a beast you should update your mod list in your profile, it will simplify things in the future.

Part of the reason why your dead time is way up there is because you have your airflow/rev at .26 but your engine is a 2.3L with big cams on top of that, .25-.28 is what you would expect to see on a stock 2.0L engine. Don't worry to much about those values, they really don't mean that much as long as your car runs good and fuel trims stay in check. You can have airflow/rev as high as .35 and still be just fine. There are several things in ECMlink link that kind of work parallel to each other. You can have your global fuel sat to lean but you can compensate for that with your mafcomp or VE values or the other way around.

I run bpr8es in my car gaped at .018 but I also run 30+ psi of boost, you should try the bpr7es and gap then at .020-.022 but I don't think the plugs are the reason why you're seeing knock.

What kind of vacuum you see with those cams at idle?

If you have all the parts you need to convert to SD then I would suggest you do it now, otherwise you will be wasting time trying to dial in you car again when you switch later. It's not as hard as it looks. I will be more then happy to help you set it all up. If you choose to do that just PM me your number and a good time to call, it will be much easier to explain the details over the phone.

 

[gsexxx]

Here I am thinking that you have a close to stock motor when in fact you have a beast you should update your mod list in your profile, it will simplify things in the future.

Part of the reason why your dead time is way up there is because you have your airflow/rev at .26 but your engine is a 2.3L with big cams on top of that, .25-.28 is what you would expect to see on a stock 2.0L engine. Don't worry to much about those values, they really don't mean that much as long as your car runs good and fuel trims stay in check. You can have airflow/rev as high as .35 and still be just fine. There are several things in ECMlink link that kind of work parallel to each other. You can have your global fuel sat to lean but you can compensate for that with your mafcomp or VE values or the other way around.

I run bpr8es in my car gaped at .018 but I also run 30+ psi of boost, you should try the bpr7es and gap then at .020-.022 but I don't think the plugs are the reason why you're seeing knock.

What kind of vacuum you see with those cams at idle?

If you have all the parts you need to convert to SD then I would suggest you do it now, otherwise you will be wasting time trying to dial in you car again when you switch later. It's not as hard as it looks. I will be more then happy to help you set it all up. If you choose to do that just PM me your number and a good time to call, it will be much easier to explain the details over the phone.

Just put in bpr7es plugs gapped at .022. Vacuum at idle is 18-19. I am just waiting for the bung that I need to weld in my intercooler pipe for a iat to be able to run sd, which should be here Friday. I am getting a tune at dbperformance next Wednesday and need to convert to sd and be able to make it there (its a 45 minute drive). If you could help get a base tune to be able to make the drive that would great!

I know that I will have to redo the tune in a couple days, but I just want to make sure nothing is wrong before I go get a tune. The reason being is because I can not seem to get rid of knock when going WOT, even with the tables you gave me. I have read that e85 is fairly resistant to knock so that's why I am concerned. However the car does feel A LOT better with those changes you made. Here is short log of a 3rd gear pull.

Thanks again for helping me out!

 

[Boostdriven]

I haven't had the chance to look through your log today, I'll take a look at it tomorrow sometime but I can tell you right now that 18-19 inches of vacuum is a clear indication that your cams need to be degreed. With the cams you have if they are degreed correctly you shouldn't see more then 15 inches of vacuum at 900-1000 rpms. I would say somewhere around 13 inches would be just about right.

I've seen a similar situation on another 2.3L engine. I can't remember for sure what cams that car had but I think they were comp 100200s which I believe are the same as FP2s. That car had high vacuum similar to what you're seeing. You couldn't hear much cam rumble and it almost sounded stock. At free rev if you let the car bounced off launch control around 5500 rpms it would build like 25 psi of boost with in few seconds on a precision 57mm turbo with a T3 exhaust housing. This car was at a local speed shop here in town, a customer brought it in with already built engine. He had the shop build a custom intercooler piping and top mount exhaust manifold and then finally a tune.

I've been friends with the owner of this shop for some time so he asked me to come and help him tune this car on SD since I've be playing with ECMlink for few years. Customer claimed that the engine had 272 cams in it but the way the car idled it sounded almost stock and all the timing marks lined up perfectly so a jumped tooth was not an option. Well we took it out to do few highway pulls and it felt ok but the power seemed to fall off right about 5500 rpms. I do remember having some issues with unexplainable knock and no matter what I did it didn't seem to go away, something just wasn't right. Later that day we ended up taking it to the dyno and to our disappointment it barely made 300 fwhp at 26psi with water/meth, peak power was right around 5500 rpms and then if was falling off hard. We got the car back to his shop and I just thought, we need to degree these cam. So after messing with the cams I found out that the exhaust cam was advanced something like 10* more then where it should be and the intake cam was retarded about the same amount. I couldn't find a clear cam card at that time for those cams so I just set them to my kelford 272s specs. As soon as I started the car I could tell the difference, it finally sounded like it had some cams and the vacuum was much lower somewhere between 12-14 inches. So that evening we took it out again for some more highway tuning and it was like heaven and earth. It was fighting for traction in 3rd gear and pulling hard all the way to red line, it was like a totally different car.

So it sounds to me like your having this same problem, if you have cam gear and you have a dial indicator you can have your cams degreed in under an hour with out a degree wheel. I've posted the process in several different threads on this site, I'll have to go through my posts to see which one it was. If you want I'll post up the process in your thread as well.

 

[gsexxx]

Yeah I have the comp 101200 fp2 cams. That would make a lot of sense. I remember reading that you didn't need to degree these cams but maybe you do. So this means I need to get adjustable cam gears correct? And yeah, if you could post up the process that would be very helpful. You have been extremely helpful, thank you again for helping me out.

 

[Boostdriven]

I can't find a detailed specs for those cams but you can set them up to the same specs I've set few others and they works just fine. You will need a dial indicator to do this. After you get your cam gears installed start the engine and let it run for a minute or so just to get the lifters full of oil then pull your valve cover off. Turn the engine by hand till its at TDC on cylinder #1 after the exhaust stroke and about to go on the intake stroke. You can do this by looking at the timing marks on the timing belt cover by the crank pulley and the position of the cam lobes of cylinder #1. Loosen up all the bolts on the intake and exhaust cam gears so you can turn the cams with a 17mm wrench with out turning the engine. Retard the intake cam some (turning it counter clockwise) and advance the exhaust cam some (turning it clockwise) Doing this should move the cam lobes off the rocker arms relieving any pressure on the valve springs of cylinder #1.

To set your intake cam set the crank pulley to 5* BTDC setting it to the middle mark on the timing belt cover (10....5....0) set your dial indicator on top of a retainer on one of the intake valves on cylinder #1. Make sure nothing will touch it as you turn the cam and set the indicator to 0. Also make sure that the cam lobe is completely off the rocker arm and the valve is 100% closed. Now turn the cam with a 17mm wrench clockwise (advancing it) and watch your dial indicator. When you see the valve drop 1mm or .040 thousands then tighten up the intake cam gear bolts and your set on the intake cam. This sets up an openings point of the intake cam. One think you should check before you tighten all the bolts is make sure that the crank didn't turn and is still at 5* BTDC when you were turning the cam to get the valve to open that 1mm. Keep in mind that after you degree your intake cam you will have to adjust your base timing again because moving that cam will also move the CAS.

For the exhaust cam, set the crank to TDC or 0 and then set your dial indicator on top of the retainer on one of the exhaust valves of cylinder #1 and set it to 0. Again make sure that the valve is 100% closed and the cam lobe is off the rocker arm. Now turn the exhaust cam counter clockwise (retarding it) until you see the valve drop 1mm or .040 thousands and then tighten the cam gear bolts. Again make sure that the crank didn't move from TDC while you were turning the cam. This will set the closing point of your exhaust cam. Since the cams are mechanical and have a set duration, setting up either a closing point or an opening point will automatically determine the other side of the cam.

Setting the cams up like that will give you 5* of overlap at 1mm valve lift. I have kelford 272s and I have them set to have 6* of overlap. Kelfords have a little longer duration so 5* of overlap should be more then enough. Of course this process is not 100% without a degree wheel but if you take your time you can get it with in 99% of where they need to be. I've used this process on several cars and had good results. If you have any questions let me know.

Just got a chance to look at that log you posted, the knock are you seeing is very minor and it could be caused by your cams being so much out of degree. I’ve noticed you have made few changes to the timing table, did that reduce the knock or it’s still the same regardless of the changes you made? Also I don’t see a map sensor for logging boost, if you have one you should just hook it up anyways even if you don’t switch to SD right away. When you do get all your stuff for SD and you get it all wired up, shoot me a PM and I'll help you set it all up, you might not even have to take the car in to the shop to tune, you might be able to just do it yourself

 

[gsexxx]

Thanks a lot! I just picked up some adjustable cam gears and am going to give it a shot this weekend.

 

[Boostdriven]

Were you able to get those cams degreed over the weekend?

 

[Davee137]

Hi, was this problem solved?

 

[curt-s]

Hi, was this problem solved?

Serious?

Last seen Jun 1, 2014

I don't think you're getting an answer.

Davee137
Joined Mar 1, 2018
Posts 1

Hell of a first post after creating the account 8 years ago

 

[Davee137]

I was just curious and didn’t want to open a new thread
But yeah, I didn’t see the last seen status so now I’m not to expecting an answer
Thanks