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Car bogs before boost with stock parts

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97primedgst

Probationary Member
7
0
Sep 13, 2013
Fresno, California
I have a 97 gst and I bought it with a FMIC, greddy BOV, has bigger intake piping and intake elbow, and turbo timer. I tried taking the car to smog and I put all the stock parts and when I started to drive it would bog and backfire right when it was going to boost. I tried checking for leaks and didn't find any and I put minor mods back on and it drove fine just runs rich according to my A/F gauge. Any local help or help in general appreciated
 
Well I didn't do the normal boost leak test a friend of mine told me to put soap and water into a spray bottle and to spray on all the vacuum lines and major air tubing and if I seen it start to bubble that's where it was leaking

And it has a manual boost controller which I do not know how to use and FYI I just got this car about 2 months ago and it's been parked mainly I came from a civic to this
 
What do you mean by not doing a normal leak test?
Soap and Water is normal, but are you using a boost leak tester to pressurize the system?
Having the car running and spraying soap and water will not show you any bubbles.
 
Thats more for small vacuum leaks and what not u need to do a full boost leak test of the turbo air charge system. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/169435-boost-leak-test-how-boostpro-net-tester.html Or a home made home depot boost leak tester works good too. Do u have a wideband? Also you wanna make sure your bov is recirculated back into your intake. Maybe u can also post pic your engine bay. Find someone local that knows about dsms and has a decent one might be helpful. Sounds like u got a narrow band maybe that says stoich or rich u dont want that u want like a aem wideband reads out the a/f ratio in a number. Best luck and wishes get er fixed up and make sure those intercooler pipes and bov flange not leaking air.
 
Yea I have the narrowband because it just shows stoich or rich and it's a little light that keeps coming back and forth .... And I am going to probably be on a hunt down mission for some local dsmrs if not i was just thinking about doing crooked smog and continue modding and my bov is recirculated read a lot about that so I went out and bought a hose just for that

This is my engine bay and excuse the accumulation of leaves as it has been parked for 2 months
 

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Yea that's what I was thinking about the stock parts too since its plastic and all beat up and I am going to do a leak down test pretty soon and hopefully get it smogged so i can drive it around
 
Yea that's what I was thinking about the stock parts too since its plastic and all beat up and I am going to do a leak down test pretty soon and hopefully get it smogged so i can drive it around

I think you mean boost leak test... :confused: It's okay to do a leakdown test, but don't confuse the terminology for a boost leak test as they are completely different. ;)
 
Yes the MBC is connected through the intake manifold and I did a boost leak test and there was a minor leak in one of the injectors and it runs a little better I can hit 5lbs of boost before bogging now but it is still drivable and also I did a compression test and it read 55 all the way across but like I was saying I drove it around town fine granny driving of course
 
55 ?? Are you sure ? How did you perform this compression test...Also you need to do a real boost leak test to see where the leak is. If the car ran beter with mods before, then i bet there is an issue with the stock piping you have on now.
 
If your at 55 psi on a compression test your in bad shape. Performing a compression test properly consists of letting the car warm up to operating temp. Removing all spark plugs and pulling the injector clips as to not shoot fuel into the cylinder while performing the test. You should turn over the engine over around 6-8 times with the throttle open. You can perform a cold compression test but I don't suggest it. You can also dump a little oil in each cylinder and see if compression comes up after performing the test without oil.

This does sound like a vacuum leak to me. A car I picked up was doing the same thing. It would fall on its face then boost and take off. I had vacuum lines running to the charcoal canister and the 3/8 size port on the side of the canister had no line hooked to it, it was supposed to have a line run to the turbo intake pipe. Huge leak right there.
 
From photo I see a un-circulated BOV, and what appears to be a open hose between MAF and turbo.

If above is true, fix open hose and recirculate BOV.

Never mind I just read where you already did this, sorry.
 
Are the injectors stock? Is there an safc or tuning device? Ditch taht pos narrow band lean stoich gauge its garbage. Aem wideband atleast if u want one or if the car is completely stock none is really needed. But redo boost leak check vaccuum diagrams and see what happens from there.
 
I just put the intake piping back and it still bogs so I'm guessing the side mount intercooler is the one that might be messed up since that's the only I haven't changed and I did a real boost leak test I had Shane from Fresno do it and I fixed the injector leak I put new o rings and new seals at the bottom of the injectors because they were solid plastic and the compression test I did it from a cold start I only turned on the car for about 10 mins took off all the spark plugs and got the little compression kit from Autozone that they rent out and I thought it was the tester that was messed up so I returned it and got a different one and still 55 all across and the guy before me said it was tuned and when I tried connecting an obd reader the reader would boot up then it would just say shutting down right after
 
something doesnt sound right. 55lbs of compression is pretty low. I might have missed it somewhere, but have you done a leak down test, of the cylinders?
 
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