2G Can't put it in gear when running.

[Kvkenamond]

I recently put my motor back in after having it rebuilt, I was able to test it for the first time last night. It drove alright but shifting wasn't very smooth. After getting home and letting it sit for a while, I went to take it out again and I couldn't put it in gear (I can when the car is off). The clutch was spongey and the slave wasn't moving nearly enough to disengage the clutch.

I've bled the master and slave using the technique everyone says to use and there's no difference. Also when bleeding, the level in the reservoir barely changes. I wonder if my line is blocked, or could there be another reason?

 

[pauleyman]

Did you change anything? What clutch and flywheel are in the car? Did you adjust the master?

 

[99dsmer4g63]

This is indeed a clutch/clutch system problem. I would not drive the car until this issue is fixed or you will make things worse.

Clutch and flywheel brand?

Can you manually push the slave rod back into the plunger while the car is off?

You still running an accumulator and rubber hose to the slave?

-Daniel

 

[Kvkenamond]

The clutch and pressure plate are both ACT, I can NOT push the slave in when it is on or off, and I'm not sure about the accmulator and hose but I think it should still be stock.

Did you change anything? What clutch and flywheel are in the car? Did you adjust the master?

My dad put in an ACT flywheel and clutch when he had it, and no I haven't.

 

[19Eclipse90]

…and I'm not sure about the accmulator and hose but I think it should still be stock.

Does it have this, the accumulator, on the front of the transmission?
2G GSX CLUTCH BOOSTER

 

[Kvkenamond]

Does it have this, the accumulator, on the front of the transmission?
2G GSX CLUTCH BOOSTER

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This?

 

[jdxnc]

The clutch and pressure plate are both ACT, I can NOT push the slave in when it is on or off, and I'm not sure about the accmulator and hose but I think it should still be stock.


My dad put in an ACT flywheel and clutch when he had it, and no I haven't.

If you cannot push the slave in, it's has over-extended, it might just be the master is adjusted to far, or worse the pivot ball may be too worn, the fork could be bent or the clutch itself could have an issue and has allowed the slave to travel too far(master possibly too). You'll need to crack open the slave bleeder and push the piston back in manually while the bleeder is open. Now that is done, screw the master adjustment in to reduce the travel a bit and try adjusting the clutch again. If you run into issues, there's something wrong like one of the issues I mentioned above.

 

[Vegas Smith]

If the fluid in the master is not draining when you're bleeding, then it's not being bled properly. I usually have to fill up the master twice when bleeding. Nothing scientific about doing twice just want to make sure all the fluid is free of bubbles. Perhaps you're not opening the bleeder valve enough?

 

[Kvkenamond]

When I was bleeding it there would plenty of liquid coming out but the reservoir would barely go down

 

[luv2rallye]

Did you do "Step Two" (not 2) here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-will-not-disengage.460266/#post-153268772

 

[Kvkenamond]

The post I found mentioned everything about that except for the fact that the clutch should be PRESSED with the slave pushed in before the screw is replaced. I'll give it a shot when I can get some help. Thanks!

 

[luv2rallye]

Well I suppose you could do it that way but it's easier while holding pedal down, you open the bleed screw BEFORE squeezing slave cyl so the air has an escape route out the bleeder valve when you squeeze the slave cyl (ie. push it in). Then close bleeder valve before allowing slave to return. If you press the slave in with the bleeder closed, you will be trying to overcome its compression and possibly not fully compress it. Not to mention you then will be blasted with brake fluid all over when you open the bleeder.

 

[Kvkenamond]

Yeah that's how I've been doing it:
1. Screw out
2. Compress slave
3. Clutch in
4. Screw in

I just did it again and there's no real change. Pedal is still pretty soft until it's about two inches from the floor, then it firms up a bit but not much.

 

[DSSA]

Yeah that's how I've been doing it:
1. Screw out
2. Compress slave
3. Clutch in
4. Screw in

I just did it again and there's no real change. Pedal is still pretty soft until it's about two inches from the floor, then it firms up a bit but not much.

Wrong order. Switch 3 and 2.

 

[Kvkenamond]

Wrong order. Switch 3 and 2.

I'll give it a shot.

 

[chrisman287]

To bleed the slave I removed the bleeder screw completely, compressed the slave and held it closed, put the bleeder screw back in and tightened it then released the slave. Did it three times just to be safe.

 

[Kvkenamond]

Yeah, that's how I've been doing it and I did it a bunch. I sent it to a shop because I don't have the time to diagnose it right now and they think it's the seals on the master because it seems to be pulling in air instead of fluid from the reservoir.

 

[Kvkenamond]

Just to update everyone who gave some input, we took the car to the shop where they replaced both the slave and master. Replacing the slave didn't change anything but they replaced the master with the OEM one that was wrongfully replaced 10 ish years back that my dad thankfully kept (turned out to be a broken fork so the master didn't have a problem) and they could build pressure again. The pressure heald well for a few days but now it's having transmission problems so I'm looking for a used one under 80,000 miles to replace it with.

 

[pauleyman]

Just to update everyone who gave some input, we took the car to the shop where they replaced both the slave and master. Replacing the slave didn't change anything but they replaced the master with the OEM one that was wrongfully replaced 10 ish years back that my dad thankfully kept (turned out to be a broken fork so the master didn't have a problem) and they could build pressure again. The pressure heald well for a few days but now it's having transmission problems so I'm looking for a used one under 80,000 miles to replace it with.

It's likely still a hydraulic problem. You have to test it. I wouldn't throw a trans in it without a clutch drag test, a slave test and if needed some adjustment. If any if what I said is wrong new trans will change nothing.

 

[Kvkenamond]

The shop said it wouldn't go into gear but they were able to get good clutch pressure, I'm just not sure what could be going on because I know the clutch assembly is all fine because I just put a new motor in. I guess I'm just curious as to what else would be causing these issues if it's not the synchros.

It's likely still a hydraulic problem. You have to test it. I wouldn't throw a trans in it without a clutch drag test, a slave test and if needed some adjustment. If any if what I said is wrong new trans will change nothing.

It also ran and drove fine before it lost clutch pressure, I was able to get enough back to drive it but it started to go out again while I was out so it was rough getting it back home so I'm thinking the synchros went bad then.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

I’m with Paul sounds like there is still a clutch system issue.

-Daniel

 

[Kvkenamond]

I’m with Paul sounds like there is still a clutch system issue.

-Daniel

Alright, I'll look into it if I can

 

[llxkevinxll]

I had this issue on my 1G. All new hydraulics and bled it to death, barely got the car moving again. Then a few days later, same issue. Ended up being a bent clutch fork. Easy test is just look under the car with the clutch pedal all the way in. Does the end of the fork contact the opening in the bell housing? Mine did when it was bad. Just something to try before spending a ton on a complete trans. Those aren't cheap these days.

 

[Kvkenamond]

I had this issue on my 1G. All new hydraulics and bled it to death, barely got the car moving again. Then a few days later, same issue. Ended up being a bent clutch fork. Easy test is just look under the car with the clutch pedal all the way in. Does the end of the fork contact the opening in the bell housing? Mine did when it was bad. Just something to try before spending a ton on a complete trans. Those aren't cheap these days.

I'll make sure to take a look, thanks!

 

[pauleyman]

The shop said it wouldn't go into gear but they were able to get good clutch pressure, I'm just not sure what could be going on because I know the clutch assembly is all fine because I just put a new motor in. I guess I'm just curious as to what else would be causing these issues if it's not the synchros.


It also ran and drove fine before it lost clutch pressure, I was able to get enough back to drive it but it started to go out again while I was out so it was rough getting it back home so I'm thinking the synchros went bad then.

Synchros dont go bad that fast.