Can't idle/cruise with turbo ecu but WOT is fine, idles/cruises with NT ecu

[the_mork]

I have a 91 awd Talon that I saved from a terrible PO.

I always had trouble going WOT or even above about 50% throttle until I found out the ecu is from a 90 NT car. With that ecu it idles/cruises fine but anything above light acceleration causes the car to fall on its face.

So I went ahead and bought a 91-94 auto turbo ecu and installed it. With that ecu I can go WOT happily but it doesn't idle/cruise worth a damn and there is absolutely no power at part throttle, it is either WOT or nothing at all. Idle feels like it is missing a cylinder and sounds terrible.

I have checked the wiring and pin 6 is green/white and pin 14 is solid green.

Anyone have any ideas? I'm starting to wonder if perhaps an NT maf or injectors were swapped in as well but I have no idea why anyone would do that. Also I have tried a 1g manual ecu which should have been close enough to tell if the auto ecu was just completely screwed but the manual ecu did the same thing.

 

[viprez586]

Look at the knock sensor.

Phantom knock?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Anyone have any ideas? I'm starting to wonder if perhaps an NT maf or injectors were swapped in as well but I have no idea why anyone would do that. Also I have tried a 1g manual ecu which should have been close enough to tell if the auto ecu was just completely screwed but the manual ecu did the same thing.

A NT MAF would still work. The turbo MAF has 7 wires as opposed to the NT's 6 wires. The 7th wire is just for the stock boost gauge. If your stock boost gauge works, you have the turbo MAF.

NT injectors are 240cc and I don't think that you would be able to go WOT at all if you had those installed. They are also "Pink Tops" so it should be very easy to identify.

 

[the_mork]

Well then my diagnoses are a bit off. Injectors appear to be grey or black topped and the MAF is 7-pin.

The car has been boost leak tested but even if it did have leaks both ecus should handle that the same.

Perhaps I have an issue with going into closed loop that needs to be addressed and the NT ecu just kept the car rich enough that it didn't show up. It really sucks that I don't have a logger for a 1g so it is hard to diagnose things and I don't want to pay $50+ for a logger when I plan to either keep it completely stock as a DD or flip it for some gain.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Well then my diagnoses are a bit off. Injectors appear to be grey or black topped and the MAF is 7-pin.

The car has been boost leak tested but even if it did have leaks both ecus should handle that the same.

Perhaps I have an issue with going into closed loop that needs to be addressed and the NT ecu just kept the car rich enough that it didn't show up. It really sucks that I don't have a logger for a 1g so it is hard to diagnose things and I don't want to pay $50+ for a logger when I plan to either keep it completely stock as a DD or flip it for some gain.

2g turbo 450's are "Black Tops".

A logger would help A LOT at diagnosing this issue. Plus if you flip this one get another, you'll already have the logger. And if you keep it chances are you'll be able to use it again in the future

 

[bradselph]

I say buy the logger and if you sell the car just include the logger for a little extra.

 

[the_mork]

I guess the question for the moment then is what is a good but inepensive usb cable? I have evoscan and the idea of using a palm seems completely silly. There is the ecmlink cable and the evoscan cable but they are both $50+ and if I could find a better deal I would love it. Any suggestions?