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2G Can't get into gear.

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August578

Proven Member
101
28
Jun 15, 2021
Eastvale, California
I just replaced my clutch with a xtd stage 4 sprung.

It did get into gear and I was able to drive a bit but it's very difficult.

I readjusted my master cylinder and rebleed the system a billion times.

After all that it now barely goes into or doesn't at all without forcing it really hard.

I can see the clutch fork getting pushed. It t seems like it's being pushed enough but I'm still not sure.

Also the tapping in the video is me signaling to my buddy to push in the clutch.

I would test for clutch drag but I can't get the car into gear to test it away from my neighbors because it's late at night.

The shifter moves fine when the car is off.

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Update: I actually can’t get it into gear at all anymore when the car is on.

I actually realized that the only thing I haven't adjusted was the clutch switch. I'll try that and see how it goes before pursuing this thread.
 
Did you replace anything else in the process? Clutch fork? Pivot ball? Throw out bearing?

Its good practice to replace these at the same time. Also did you try adjusting the master cylinder rod?

Here's a video from the God father himself.

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His whole transmission series is a must watch.
 
I didn't replace the fork and pivot ball everything else did. I checked them before removing, didn't think it needed to be shimmed but I could've been wrong.

I did adjust the master cylinder rod but I could adjust the switch on the pedal because it's rusted stuck.

And unfortunately I did follow the God Fathers videos, all of them when doing it and I must have not followed them carefully enough somewhere prob for the pivot ball checking.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I would take the slave cylinder off and see where the clutch fork lands in the window. Possible shims may be needed.

You said you have adjusted the clutch pedal rod? How does the pedal feel?
 
The clutch pedal feels really good I, adjusted using jacks and jafros video.

The only thing I couldn't adjust was the switch because it's rust welded pretty bad.

Before I started messing with the master cylinder rod and the lines, the car did shift around (not very well into 1st and reverse) when I first put it in. I drove it around for a couple miles and brought it back to be adjusted. It was half drivable.

I think where I mighve messed up is either the shims for the pivot ball need to be added or.

After reading this

Like pauley said the step height. I did have my flywheel resurface but didn't get measurements or tell a specific height. So that could also be the culprit. I'll have to call the machine shop again and ask what step, but they are closed

So if my step height is off by a lot or was resurfaced flat or something. Would I need a new flywheel or could the step be adjusted again?
 
You can't add material to a fly wheel. I don't know the maximum amount of material that can be removed before replacement is needed. I think Jafro covered it in his video.
 
Looks like the fork isn't in the right place it pretty far left. Recommend to take the trans out and shim the pivot ball.

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Well the problem got worse. I got everything out besides the cross member.

One of my cross member bolts is stuck bad. I 1/2 impacted it, torched it and had a 3 foot breaker bar on it.

I can't spray any wd40 or a pb blast on it because it's the threads are deep as upside down.

Any suggestions?

It's the rad support bolts the two big ones in the front.

If anything I might just cut it and drill it out.
 
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