Can't get Flywheel bolts out

[dsm-onster]

I am using an impact wrench and a propane torch. How long should I heat the head of the bolt? ... Also, all i have is 3/4" 6 point that is big enough and fits on my inpact gun. It is a little loose. Would that keep the impact wrench from properly "impacting" the bolt?

 

[dsm-onster]

I have all but the one i started with out... That one is rounded bad . Also, i tried a screw/bolt extractor and i broke the extractor off in the bolt . Maybe i'll drill it out and drill some more and make it so the heat has to travel through less metal to get to the threads and hopefully that will work

 

[wolf20043]

I have all but the one i started with out... That one is rounded bad . Also, i tried a screw/bolt extractor and i broke the extractor off in the bolt . Maybe i'll drill it out and drill some more and make it so the heat has to travel through less metal to get to the threads and hopefully that will work

If You have an angle grinder, just grind the head off, and it will give You enough heat for the rest of the bolt to turn out after You take the flywheel off. Worked for Me.
Mike

 

[spyder97gs]

If You have an angle grinder, just grind the head off, and it will give You enough heat for the rest of the bolt to turn out after You take the flywheel off. Worked for Me.
Mike

That would scare me... either way, you should really be using a metric 6 point socket for a tighter fit on the impact.

 

[wolf20043]

That would scare me... either way, you should really be using a metric 6 point socket for a tighter fit on the impact.

Scare you or not, it is a bit late to use the socket as the bolt head is rounded and he now has a bolt extractor borke off in it too. You just have to be careful to shave the head to just a thin, thin bit left and it prys off.
Mike

 

[spyder97gs]

Of course the bolt extractor broke off. I'm almost 100% positive the flywheel bolts can not be drilled out. 100 lbs of torque and loctite doesn't give all that easily. Hope your method works for him.

 

[wolf20043]

Of course the bolt extractor broke off. I'm almost 100% positive the flywheel bolts can not be drilled out. 100 lbs of torque and loctite doesn't give all that easily. Hope your method works for him.

It actually suprised Me when I did it. The heat from the grinder loosened them alot. I put vise grips on the stud, went to turn it, thought it was slipping, but turned out the 2 bolts were only finger tight.
Mike

 

[boostyGST]

first off you should have used a 19mm 6 point socket, especially using a impact gun. If you did not have one, you should have went to sears and got one. If you are using a little propane torch to heat the bolt, you are going to be a long time. If there is any way you can find someone who has a industrial torch, use it, alot more heat QUICK, and mine zapped right off after that.

 

[wolf20043]

first off you should have used a 19mm 6 point socket, especially using a impact gun. If you did not have one, you should have went to sears and got one. If you are using a little propane torch to heat the bolt, you are going to be a long time. If there is any way you can find someone who has a industrial torch, use it, alot more heat QUICK, and mine zapped right off after that.

Yea. shoulda,woulda, coulda bites everyone at some point or antother. I am sure this post will help in the future for Him. I know when I had to it was a learning experience.
Mike

 

[dsm-onster]

first off you should have used a 19mm 6 point socket, especially using a impact gun. If you did not have one, you should have went to sears and got one. If you are using a little propane torch to heat the bolt, you are going to be a long time. If there is any way you can find someone who has a industrial torch, use it, alot more heat QUICK, and mine zapped right off after that.

Yea, a day late and a $ short. But I got her off with a Craftsman "Bolt Out" bolt and nut remover set. It is the things that fit onto the worn head and cut into it as you torqe it around. It was rather easy then .

 

[dsm-onster]

Of course the bolt extractor broke off. I'm almost 100% positive the flywheel bolts can not be drilled out. 100 lbs of torque and loctite doesn't give all that easily. Hope your method works for him.

Well it has to be "drillable". That's how I got my screw extractor into the bolt and broke it off. I did it with a cordless drill and a cobalt (oxide?) bit. It was easy once I maintained a steady hand .

 

[steverpal]

For future reference....

when the bolts would not come free... and then you tried to use an extractor and it broke, that would be because the bolts were still torqued. also when removing high torque bolts that are more than 1 of them, always lossen them a little bit at a time and do it in a pattern just like how you would remove head bolts.

 

[dsm-onster]

For future reference....

when the bolts would not come free... and then you tried to use an extractor and it broke, that would be because the bolts were still torqued. also when removing high torque bolts that are more than 1 of them, always lossen them a little bit at a time and do it in a pattern just like how you would remove head bolts.

That makes sense. That would release the pressure the part is exerting on the fasteners. Oh well, now I know.

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

If you had used an oxy/acetylene torch, it heats the head up enough to expand the bolt and reduce the torque. It also removes any loctite that would be on the threads.

Be sure to check your rear main seal and replace if you are unsure.

I would have removed the head of the bolt also.

Good Luck

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Also, for future reference, when drilling thru a bolt that you're trying to remove (if you didn't do this already), make sure you drill all the way thru the bolt. The bolt shouldn't be all the way to the bottom of the hole and you'll feel it give way when it breaks thru. This will relieve pressure where the bolt presses against the threads of the crank (in this case). Will make it easier when using an extractor to back out the bolt. If you don't do this, you're more prone to breaking off the extractor and extractors aren't easy to drill thru. Also make sure you're using sharp bits or you won't go very far and may actually harden the metal you're trying to drill thru because of the heat you're producing with the dull bit.

 

[spyder97gs]

If you had used an oxy/acetylene torch, it heats the head up enough to expand the bolt and reduce the torque. It also removes any loctite that would be on the threads.

Be sure to check your rear main seal and replace if you are unsure.

I would have removed the head of the bolt also.

Good Luck

A little off topic, but if the rear main seal is leaking, wouldnt the flywheel shows signs of oil, or be soaked in oil? I'm getting something that is blowing back onto my exhaust, but I'm thinking its tranny fluid from the broken speed sensor. I didn't seen any signs of oil on the flywheel.

 

[dsm-onster]

If you had used an oxy/acetylene torch, it heats the head up enough to expand the bolt and reduce the torque. It also removes any loctite that would be on the threads.

Be sure to check your rear main seal and replace if you are unsure.

I would have removed the head of the bolt also.

Good Luck

To my suprise there was no leakage of any sort around the rear main seal. So I returned my rear main seal purchase. Don't flywheels warp sometimes from oil leaking on them from the rear main seal (i wouldn't know why that would happen, but i think i've heard of it).

Nevertheless it seams the PO drove too hard with a slipping chutch. I went back to him and he admitted that, for showoff, he'd burnout through 1st and 2nd and try for 3rd but the clutch would "let go". That would heat up the flywheel up enough to warp it for sure.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Heat will warp it. Oil getting on it won't. If anything, the clutch would slip if oil got onto the friction surfaces.

 

[dsm-onster]

Also, for future reference, when drilling thru a bolt that you're trying to remove (if you didn't do this already), make sure you drill all the way thru the bolt. The bolt shouldn't be all the way to the bottom of the hole and you'll feel it give way when it breaks thru. This will relieve pressure where the bolt presses against the threads of the crank (in this case). Will make it easier when using an extractor to back out the bolt. If you don't do this, you're more prone to breaking off the extractor and extractors aren't easy to drill thru. Also make sure you're using sharp bits or you won't go very far and may actually harden the metal you're trying to drill thru because of the heat you're producing with the dull bit.

Thanks. I will remember that for the next time. Thank everyone for their help.

BTW, my review of the ACT XACT Streetlite flywheel is that it is phenominal so far. I am experiencing smother shifts. It's become easier to rev match. I can still roll around in a parking lot like with the stock flywheel. And it feels freer as i'm reving through out the rpm rang especially after 3500 rpms (kind of like putting in a K&N and a cold air intake).