The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Can't find the right crush washers [Merged 7-8] washer copper aluminum

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Yeah those install kits are expensive. I'm just going to buy the gaskets and the crush washers new, everything else I'l try to get from ebay or dsmtrader.com. Thanks for your help.
 
What are the sizes of the crush washers necessary for the water/coolant and oil feedlines on a 14b/16g? I did a search on "crush washer size" and came up with nothing useful other than that the oil line might take a 10 mm washer.
 
Ok, so my oil feed line to my 14b started leaking(the side on the turbo itself, not at the head), and so, i went to the parts stores around here as per dsmtuners, and tried to find a crush washer to fit, unfortunattely our shops around here suck and none of the copper crush washers they have fit, so i went to the the dealer, and am getting raped at 3.50 a washer, and have tried to seal it down now TWICE, the first time i bought two washers and a new bolt, just to make sure that it wasnt the bolt that was bad, to my suprise...the bottom didnt seal, so next week(today) i do it again, and the bottom doesnt seal Again!!!...could it be something else besides the washers that are causing it not to seal?!...i did have to use a flathead screwdriver to ram the feed line into place so the bolt would get in place for the threading, but i never jammed it down in the thread hole or anthing, could I have scratched the surface on the housing?? I assume that is cast iron so I doubt I did, but all help would be EXTREMELY Appreciated!!

P.S., i put 5w-40 in it on my last oil change, and now from where is has been leaking for a while, I had to put a quart of 10w-40 in it, all the 5w-40 was gone at the store, would this affect oil thickness enough to have it run through?..

Sorry if I seem like an idiot, but I dont know what else it could be, and I really dont want to take the whole exhaust manifold off just to get this thing to stop leaking
 
The oil wont make much of a diference or cause problems. Just make sure that you change it out soon for oil that is all the same weight just to be safe. As for the cooper washers. Make sure that you torqued them down properly and if that doesnt work try getting a new set. Or you could try tightening them a little more than spec, but be careful.
 
thats what i put in my post man, i torqued them down, damn good, as much force as i could put on them, not at first, but when it still leaked i treid to torque it down more andmore, until i couldnt push it any further, and as the previous post states, I have already gotten another set of washers, and those are leaking too.... any one else have anything helpful?
 
i had the same problem with copper washers before and have had some luck by just taking the copper washer and a propane torch and heating them up until they look like they are rainbowed colored, almost like when steel has been really hot, and the surface has to be really clean and dry. the heat will expand the copper back out, after you crush them once they dont come back unless you heat them, and yes they will look like they are getting all out of shape and they will to a certain extent.
i hope this may work for you as well.

[It doesn't "re-expand" them. It anneals them, making them re-soften by relaxing the bonds in the molecular matrix.]
 
If your copper washers aren't sealing, there's a good chance you scratched the sealing surface. If possible inspect the surface. You may need to remove the turbo to properly debur the surface so the copper will crush. Also one thing i've done is tighten them and loosen them several times to seat the wasers realy good. Oh, if you have a local fuel injection shop stop there for copper seal warshers. Im sure they will be much cheaper there.
 
no fuel injectionplacearoundhere that i know of...but ill try the retightening and loosening to see if it seats right, could me chaning it with oil all over the surface be causing it to not seal?i wouldnt think so butjust trying to think of what else it could be...
 
Mine always leaked too. What I did was bought a ss feed line. Took the turbo off and taped the oil feed to 3/8 npt. Bought a fitting from napa for 3/8 npt to #4. And it never leaked again. Make sure to get all he metal shavings off when you tap.
 
O.k. so, I tried torching the washers to get them to re-expand, and they did for the most part, then I used some RTV copped on both sides, and crushed them back down... and once again, no luck. The surface is clean on the turbo, the only thing that could be scratched is the bottom of the feed line fitting, which I cant really check since Im not removing it from the head, cause thats some more washers I would have to change, so I am just going to wait until I find an SS feed line pretty cheap...That means I will have to tap my turbo to the bigger port though, correct?
 
I've got copper electrical washers for electrical use, they're the exact same size/shape as the crush washers. Seem to have the same hardness in testing with a clippers.
 
It's hard to say, I think it will depend on what you are using them for. Some crush washers are actually hollow, but I don't know if Mitsubishi actually uses those. You generally find them on spark plugs, some of the sensors on certain cars, and a few other things. But if you are using them for the oil drain bolt, transmission, transfer case, rear differential, then you should be fine, just make sure they are 100% the same.

Jerry
 
Hollow crush washers are used on larger-diameter fittings, such as the sump drain. So long as they feel soft, they'll work fine. A common substitute is ring terminals with the crimp socket clipped off.
 
i tried to use one on the oil feed line from the head and it leaked like crazy till i got the right ones from satan aka the dealer.
 
what is the size of the 1g oil squirter crush washers?

I have searched but no luck, Ill just bring the washer to the local autoparts store and get the size.

I picked up these copper crush washers from napa. The seem to be the size I need or a little too big. here are some pictures.

I picked up these copper crush washers from napa. The seem to be the size I need or a little too big. here are some pictures.

here are the pictures. I maxed on pictures. Ill send some later.

here they are I just had problems putting them on here.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top