Can't engage second - grind/shifter bottoming out

[Bouche Dag]

I've searched and searched to no avail regarding this issue.

Car is a 92 AWD.

When I am making the 1-2 upshift the shifter seems to barely "engage" the gear. Almost as though the throw needs to be about 1.5 inches longer to grab it. There is also a nasty grind when I let the clutch out and I have to fiddle with it to get it to engage.

I've checked the shifter cable adjustment per the VFAQ and it seems to be okay. The shifter cables appear to be in good condition. Shifter base bushings replaced with metal shims, shifter cable bushings replaced with solid bearings.

So, am I looking at a broken/bent shifter fork? Or can the shifter cables be internally damaged requiring replacement?

Thanks!

 

[miguelmcv]

Have you check the shift linkage Bracket. the one at the tranny that holds the cables.
It supposed to use some kind of washers to hold the Bracket.

Also, disconnect the cables and put the tranny in 1st and move the cable to see if it reaches all the way.
Do this step with 2th gear as well.

 

[DSMmonster123]

make sure your clutch is disengaging all the way, thats an easy fix. other than that not sure, but if you put it into 2nd and shake the stick it may help you get the gear in. worked for my friend in his old beater of a car.

 

[Bouche Dag]

Have you check the shift linkage Bracket. the one at the tranny that holds the cables.
It supposed to use some kind of washers to hold the Bracket.

Also, disconnect the cables and put the tranny in 1st and move the cable to see if it reaches all the way.
Do this step with 2th gear as well.

Thanks for the advice.

The bracket had one of the appropriate bolt/washers. I took the other from my donor car.

Going for a long drive now to a buddy's house (first drive beyond going around the block since I've gotten it running! ). I'll report my findings.

 

[Bouche Dag]

Clutch is adjusted properly. Cables are now fixed to the bracket correctly. Still having issues. Any more ideas?

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I had an exact instance of this issue with my 91 GSX a couple of years back. Felt the throw was too short - turned out to be synchros.

With the clutch Out and the engine running, ease your shifter towards 1st gear. Listen to the engine. If the engine begins to bog slowly as you near the gear, then great, that means your synchros are good. If you begin grinding without the engine noticeably bogging/lowering in RPMs then your synchro is shot. Do the same for 2nd gear. This is a great and easy way to test and see if your synchros are shot. Remember to do this slowly. Just jamming it in towards the gears will only damage things.

Also, it could be a dragging clutch. Leave the clutch out, the ebrake off, and preferably on a flat level bit of pavement, and rev the car to about 6.5K. If the car tries to creep forward this means your clutch is not fully disengaging from the flywheel and you are dragging your clutch.

Report back with your finds.

 

[Bouche Dag]

I just went ahead and bought a new (used) trans. I plan on installing it this week. Will report back with the findings.

 

[Bouche Dag]

Dropped the trans a few days ago. It was a 22 spline out of a 90-91.5!!! The bracket was from a 91.6-92!!! I am wondering if this was the cause of the issues. I think the brackets have to be changed in order to use a 90-91.5 trans in a 91.6+.

Time to put the clutch pedal back in and take her for a test drive!

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Yup, that's certainly an issue. You must use the matching brackets. Good find.

 

[obsidian]

Wow! Good find! Update us to let us know how it goes.

 

[ShadowRS99]

Synchros. My old one did the same thing and so did the Camaro we used to have. Synchro were bad on both.

 

[Bouche Dag]

Ok just got back from driving around. The new (used) trans still grinds on the 1-2 upshift and the 2-3 upshift. The good thing is that the 1-2 upshift not grabbing problem is fixed. I can feel it grab the synchro at the appropriate time.

When I was reinstalling my pedal I noticed that the shifter didn't look like it was sitting in the proper neutral position. Popped the shift boot off and wouldn't you know it - the car has 90 cables (the kind that you can adjust both cables on). This HAS to be the issue. I'm going to try and throw in a set of 91.5+ cables and call it a day.

If it still grinds I'm going to dig myself into deeper debt and buy a TRE trans

Sidenote- I cannot believe how much better my clutch pedal feels now that I sent it to Shep for a rebuild/weld. If anyone ever has to drop their pedal let me give you some tips - 1. take the driver seat out. 2. pop the speedo cable off the trans and pull it into the cabin as much as you can. And 3. remove the attachment that fixes the pedal to the brake booster pushrod (clevis?) when you're installing the pedal. Makes it much easier to work. Also, make sure your wheel is straight. I installed mine and my wheel is cocked. DOH!

 

[obsidian]

Don't buy anymore trans and just do a good transmission fluid change out and see how that goes for ya.

 

[Bouche Dag]

Well you kind of have to change the fluid when you replace a trans.

I have brand new pennzoil synchromesh in there.

Shift cables should be in the mail on Monday... We'll see what happens with the appropriate cables...

 

[obsidian]

I'm so used to people being cheap around where I live that my normal first question is did they do the obvious things first.

No offense meant by it.

 

[Bouche Dag]

None taken. I know there are alot of DSM guys that are complete hack jobs .

 

[Bouche Dag]

Put the proper shift cables in.

It shifts a little better I guess but it still grinds. UGH!

I guess this trans that I was told was good is actually bad...