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Cant adjust timing, 8 degress whatever I do 43 WOT!

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Marceldsm

10+ Year Contributor
321
3
Jan 13, 2010
Montreal, QC, Canada
my 1g has a costom chip for the 850 cc injectors and 2g maf

i recalibrated the tps :thumb:

when it was time for timing, everytime i was grounding the terminal the car whants to stall


my datalooger says 8-12 of advance at 800-1000 rpm

100% throttle or even 50% , timming is around 43 degrees wtf is going on

im seeing 11 counts of knock around 50%-100% throttle


IS IT NORMAL TO SEE SO MUCH TIMMING

p.s Sorry for my ENGLISH PLEASE MODERATOR DONT BASH ME
 
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Sounds like your intake cam is off a tooth or two. Do you know how to check? If not I am searching for the tech article now I will post when i find.


I found the article for checking your timing.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-1g-2g-quick-timing-belt-alignment-check.html

will double check

mecanical timming seems dead on

update


Mecanical timming is dead on


is it the chip or something else ?????


i know i have cams and magnus intake will that effect timming ?
 
Yes it may be the chip, if you have the factory ecu I would swap them out then see if your problem still exist. If that does not work then yes it can be something else and if your timing belt is dead on, cam and crank, then your going to be looking at crank/cam sensor and all the associated wiring.

No your cams and intake will not affect your ignition timing.
 
Hy, i have a small problem whit knock at wot and part throttle


so around 20 psi im seeing 43 degrees timing 11 counts of knock

this is on a 255 walbro 850 cc injectors 2g maf costom chip from MY1GDSM ( THE TUNE IS GOOD except for 11.9-12.2 afr)


can it be the the chip? or is it something whit the timing, mecanical timing LOOKS dead on, so i dont get it

at idle its around 8-12 degrees


thanks in advance
 
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That seems way too lean under boost. I'm not surprised you're seeing counts of knock.

And timing is extremely high as well. I think factory is 20 degrees advanced at redline.
 
Are you sure you ignition timing is set right by the cas? It should be 5* with the timing connector grounded at idle. If your Cas is adjusted to advanced it will in turn raise the timing as you drive. Did you contact my1gdsm? He is a great tuner from what I've heard and knows what he is talking about with tuning.
 
Are you sure you ignition timing is set right by the cas? It should be 5* with the timing connector grounded at idle. If your Cas is adjusted to advanced it will in turn raise the timing as you drive. Did you contact my1gdsm? He is a great tuner from what I've heard and knows what he is talking about with tuning.

when i connect the timing connector to ground it the car whants to stall

the other thing is how the hell to i send a log via the datalogger i have no idea how to do it


fuel pressure is 37 psi
part throttle the car is a monster, car runs better part then wot its strange


i whant to contact him i have no idea how to send the log to him :confused:

43 degrees of timing on pump gas is rediculous, better add some fuel and pull timing before you kill that monster.

Edit: are you sure your not reading that timing value inbetween shifts?

no sir thats the timming value WOT

the engine drives and feels healty
 
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when i connect the timing connector to ground it the car whants to stall

the other thing is how the hell to i send a log via the datalogger i have no idea how to do it


fuel pressure is 37 psi
part throttle the car is a monster, car runs better part the wot its strange


i whant to contact him i have no idea how to send the log to him :confused:



no sir thats the timming value WOT

the engine drives and feels healty

When you ground the timing connector it is suppose to idle down, if it dies you may have other problems like improper biss adjustment, wrong base timeOMG, etc.

I would either pm him on here or email him, his freelancer ads have his email to contact him at.
 
When you ground the timing connector it is suppose to idle down, if it dies you may have other problems like improper biss adjustment, wrong base timeOMG, etc.

I would either pm him on here or email him, his freelancer ads have his email to contact him at.

biss is ajusted to 800 rpm

maybe is the base timing tune thats off???

i know he doubled the maf hz


here is the mod list he did to the ecu


8000 rev limit
7500 Check engine light as shift light
6000 NLTS
4500-5500 adjustable 2 step
Octane Reset
Boost gauge as Knock Gauge
AC Cut @ 85%/3secs
850 rpm idle
2G MAFT
FIC 850cc injectors set to 336uS deadtime.
37psi base FP
No Fuel Cut
Hi speed closed loop
AF cap gone
2x karman mod(should log as half so you can read higher then 1609hz)
Phantom Knock Code
Extended Fuel & timing maps
11.0:1 target a/r ratio

[
 
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There is a way to get the logs off the palm to send out. It longs in a excel format. And yes the chip is the issue. I hate say to it but the ppl^^^^above dont know how the ecu works. If ## base timing was off the ecu would not be trying to command 43* of timing. and all around drivability would suffer as well. You could tune ## car urself if you want. And very easily as well. You can use this BURN2 Chip Programmer or what I run Ostrich 2.0 : The New Breed allows me to real time tune my car. Im running a SD setup but you can run and tune the maf E931 just fine and run the EVO maf if you want. As the 2G maf does run out of flow relativly quick. And the EVO maf has seen 600 HP. Just some info.
 
My 2g does 33-34 degrees w wide open throttle at 17psi on pump. No knock as far as I can tell.

Pull ## spark plugs and take some pics and post them up. The plugs will tell us if you have knock
 
There is a way to get the logs off the palm to send out. It longs in a excel format. And yes the chip is the issue.

I can look at the logs in any format He can send
He is going to be getting them to me and We will resolve the issue.

But,
I'd like to know how you with ZERO info can come to the conclusion the the chip is the problem? I stand 1000% behind what I do and have been around awhile it's not a issue with the chip. And even if it was I would resolve it. :nono:

I don't appreciate people with little info to add besides you can do it yourself, jumping in to point fingers when the have no ground to stand on. If you have anythign to add make it on point to resove his issue not blatantly pointing fingers. By all mean add something.
But 99% of the time if any one has an issue it's something wrong on there car not my work.

As well with out a log it's hard to say anything But There is very good chance that it is something as simple as the Maf not gettign a signal to the ECU as that would keep if from seeing any load. and the car would stay in the highest load cells.

Regaudless I've spoken with the OP and we will take care of the issue. Or I will point them in the right direction after actually having something to look at.
 
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When you set your BISS, did you ground the timing connector and diagnostic plug?


no sir

o f..k let me quess i did something wrong

I can look at the logs in any format He can send
He is going to be getting them to me and We will resolve the issue.

But,
I'd like to know how you with ZERO info can come to the conclusion the the chip is the problem? I stand 1000% behind what I do and have been around awhile it's not a issue with the chip. And even if it was I would resolve it. :nono:

I don't appreciate people with little info to add besides you can do it yourself, jumping in to point fingers when the have no ground to stand on. If you have anythign to add make it on point to resove his issue not blatantly pointing fingers. By all mean add something.
But 99% of the time if any one has an issue it's something wrong on there car not my work.

As well with out a log it's hard to say anything But There is very good chance that it is something as simple as the Maf not gettign a signal to the ECU as that would keep if from seeing any load. and the car would stay in the highest load cells.

Regaudless I've spoken with the OP and we will take care of the issue. Or I will point them in the right direction after actually having something to look at.

well drivebility wise the car is super fun to drive even under vaccum, part throtlle in boost 100mph its a joke, wot its not so grate it feels like the car is pulling timing big time.


and Yes you can TRUST MY1GDSM. CAR IDLES LIKE STOCK, NO FUEL CUT, HE KNOWS WHAT HES DOING.
 
I can look at the logs in any format He can send
He is going to be getting them to me and We will resolve the issue.

But,
I'd like to know how you with ZERO info can come to the conclusion the the chip is the problem? I stand 1000% behind what I do and have been around awhile it's not a issue with the chip. And even if it was I would resolve it. :nono:

I don't appreciate people with little info to add besides you can do it yourself, jumping in to point fingers when the have no ground to stand on. If you have anythign to add make it on point to resove his issue not blatantly pointing fingers. By all mean add something.
But 99% of the time if any one has an issue it's something wrong on there car not my work.

As well with out a log it's hard to say anything But There is very good chance that it is something as simple as the Maf not gettign a signal to the ECU as that would keep if from seeing any load. and the car would stay in the highest load cells.

Regaudless I've spoken with the OP and we will take care of the issue. Or I will point them in the right direction after actually having something to look at.

Well sorry to say I know much more than you think I do. Ive burned my own chips. I know what to do how it works and what to look for with something like this. A log will only help to prove that electronically everything is working correctly. The 1G dsm ecu is a pretty dumb ecu. Only so much can go wrong to cause weird issues. And its not his MAF sensor in this issue. If you think its his MAF sensor then tell me this. In order for the ECU to think its at a load range to equal that of 43 Degrees advanced what load does the ECU think its at? All I could find by looking at the E931 bins are low and 2 which translate somewhere between 12.6inHq and 8.9InHq. So if it indeed was a MAF than then his car would not run at all as it would be stuck at that load rang no matter what RPM or boost or even idling his car was at. Those numbers are the stock E931 bin. The extended maps may differ but they usually allowed for more boost and rpms. I dont have the extended maps PDF at hand to see what they run at the low load settings. So you tell me how did I figure this out with knowing anything or looking at a log? Process of elimination. So please keep going on about how I zero info about what is going on.
 
Well, you need to properly set your BISS in order for your car to run right. Like said above, if your car is stalling when you ground your timing, your BISS could be out of adjustment. Which is kind of a catch 22 for you since you need to ground your timing in order to properly set you BISS adjustment.

You may have to adjust your BISS so that your idle is higher than what you have it set at. This might allow you to keep your car running while to ground your timing. If you can keep the car running while it's grounded, you can make sure your base timing is correct and properly adjust you BISS.

Here are the instructions to properly set the BISS

The best advise I can give is; whenever working on these cars, never leave the garage until everything as been properly calibrated, and buttoned up. Eliminate all boost leaks, make sure the TPS is in spec, make sure the ISC is working, the throttle cable is properly adjusted, BISS is properly set, Timing, idle switch for 1Gs. Doing this makes problem solving MUCH easier when tuning, or trying to run a known "good" tune.
 
Not a problem, just linked it over to the other thread to keep better track... .

As soon as you can get me some logs I can point you in the right direction and We can get your issues with the Car taken care of... .
 
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