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Buying A Talon w/Goodies Next Step?

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heinzanova

Probationary Member
25
0
Jul 3, 2004
Stroudsburg, Pennsylvania
I Just put a down payment on a 1992 Eagle Talon TSi FWD
It has a 6bolt that was just rebuilt 1000 miles ago buy a local mechanic that has worked on many DSMs and Mitsu Staliens/Conquests. So i know the rebuild is very trustable.

It has a Big 16G with no play at all, boosts very healthy.
Manual boost controller
Cut Air Box (Still has honey combs so mas can read properly)
K&N
When he rebuild the Motor he did the Balance Elemination Kit
Under Drive Pulley
3Inch Cat Back APEXi (GT series)
No Upgraded DownPipe or Test Pipe (factory DP and cat)
Auto Meter Boost Gauge
Auto Meter Colbalt Series A/F Gauge
Reinforced with Eutothain (spelling?) bushings
ACT Street Application Racing Clutch
Stainless Steel Braded Clutch Line
All Fuilds, Belts and such are brand new.

My question is, where do I go from here? I have a limited budget for more parts this summer, but it is obvious, when the car is at 15PSI on the stock fuel system that there is hesistation in the car, could it be the computer is backing off the timing because of lack of fuel? It hits the 15PSI like nothing, and you can hear the turbo just wanna run like a monster. The A/F gauge reads lean while in idle, but soon as I get on it a little it moves up to the center, on a scale of 1-10 (1 lean 3-8 Stochi and 10 rich) it idles at 1, and runs at like 4/5ish.
(please dont bash me for this horrible rendition of the gauge performance)

I was thinking of larger injectors, AFC, and I was told I must replace the fuel pump if I am going todo larget injectors?

Would this be the wisest upgrade at the current time?
 
heinzanova said:
I Just put a down payment on a 1992 Eagle Talon TSi FWD
It has a 6bolt that was just rebuilt 1000 miles ago buy a local mechanic that has worked on many DSMs and Mitsu Staliens/Conquests. So i know the rebuild is very trustable.

It has a Big 16G with no play at all, boosts very healthy.
Manual boost controller
Cut Air Box (Still has honey combs so mas can read properly)
K&N
When he rebuild the Motor he did the Balance Elemination Kit
Under Drive Pulley
3Inch Cat Back APEXi (GT series)
No Upgraded DownPipe or Test Pipe (factory DP and cat)
Auto Meter Boost Gauge
Auto Meter Colbalt Series A/F Gauge
Reinforced with Eutothain (spelling?) bushings
ACT Street Application Racing Clutch
Stainless Steel Braded Clutch Line
All Fuilds, Belts and such are brand new.

My question is, where do I go from here? I have a limited budget for more parts this summer, but it is obvious, when the car is at 15PSI on the stock fuel system that there is hesistation in the car, could it be the computer is backing off the timing because of lack of fuel? It hits the 15PSI like nothing, and you can hear the turbo just wanna run like a monster. The A/F gauge reads lean while in idle, but soon as I get on it a little it moves up to the center, on a scale of 1-10 (1 lean 3-8 Stochi and 10 rich) it idles at 1, and runs at like 4/5ish.
(please dont bash me for this horrible rendition of the gauge performance)

I was thinking of larger injectors, AFC, and I was told I must replace the fuel pump if I am going todo larget injectors?

Would this be the wisest upgrade at the current time?

downpipe, port the 02 sensor housing, bigger fuel pump and injectors and then the safc to control them. After that crank up the boost :D
 
Thanks for the reply

So how much Boost should I set the turbo at with factory fuel, once I do a downpipe and port the O2 housing?

Also is there a faq or tutorial on how to/what todo to port the O2 housing?
 
I wouldn't boost over 14psi w/a big 16g on the stock fuel system. Find out if the fuel pump is rewired as well. Your first mods should definately be an AFC, injectors and a larger fuel pump. Do that and you'll be able to push up to ~18psi w/stock intercooler. Since it has the stock 1g maf, you may want to look into either getting a 2g maf or a GM MAF w/translator, simply because the 1g maf can't flow much air and at higher boost you may run into fuel cut issues because of it. If you get the GM MAFT you may not need the safc.
 
rewired how?

The guy said the O2 housing is already ported (in re to a higher up post)

What size injectors should I goto????

I was told if I do just 510s I can stay with stock ECU and not need an AFC...

What size pump would you recomend? I am seeing alot of 190 vs 255...

Will a 190 be able to run like 650 or 660 injectors properly?

Thanks for the help
 
heinzanova said:
rewired how?
The guy said the O2 housing is already ported (in re to a higher up post)
What size injectors should I goto????

I was told if I do just 510s I can stay with stock ECU and not need an AFC...
What size pump would you recomend? I am seeing alot of 190 vs 255...
Will a 190 be able to run like 650 or 660 injectors properly?

Thanks for the help
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html
Go here and start reading up.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/pump-relay.html -- AWD 1g Rewire
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/pump-rewire-1GFWD.html -- FWD 1g Rewire

With those mods you should go with a 255 and afpr.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclfuel.htm -- Injector sizing chart.


Please consider reading up on some items in the vfaq or in our forums technical faq's to see alot of what people ask and how it's resolved.
 
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