Bushing Kit Questions...Need Help.

[RWKustoms]

Ok so I just got my Rear Control Arm Bushing Kit from Energy Suspension and I wanted to know really how difficult this is to do. In the kit I got:

(3) bushings for the rear knuckle for each side
(1) bushing for the lower trailing arm for each side
(2) bushings for the upper control arm for each side

I read a few threads and it seems like I should just use a torch and melt out the old ones but I know there has to be another way because I do not have access to a torch. I won't have access to a press either and now I really wanna know if I got myself into a bit of a riff or does it come down to how bad/stuck the old bushings are. Also in the kit each bushing came with a removable sleeve I guess for easier installation and I want to know if the stock ones are like that. I'm gonna be doing this in my backyard over the weekend so any help would be appreciated. The noise coming from the rear of my car is really unbearable and I can't take it anymore.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

When I had my ES Hyperflex setup installed I just took the parts down to the local race shop and had them do it for $125.

14 bushings total if I remember correctly. To me it was worth it after seeing the write-ups and the trouble required. You might want to check something like that out and save the aggravation.

The upgrade is well worth it IMO.

 

[jtmcinder]

The stock bushings are sleeve-rubber-tube, so they have an outer metal sleeve, a metal tube in the center, and rubber sandwiched in between. The rubber is bonded to the two metal pieces.

The metal tube in the urethane bushings is removable for two reasons: it allows the tube to rotate within the bushing, such that the only springs are the actual springs; and it has to be removed when installing or removing the bushing, making room for the urethane to be squeezed to get the shoulders through.

Without a torch, you are in for some fun.

In general, to remove the OE bushings, you remove the inner tube and the rubber and then cut a slice in the outer sleeve with a hacksaw (or some such). Then the outer sleeve can be pinched inwards until it just falls out. The easiest way to get the center and rubber out is burning, but you can also do it with a Skilsaw or by drilling lots of holes with a drill. It's going to take you a while, however, and you'll miss out on the fun of when the rubber starts to burn and drip.

- Jtoby

 

[RWKustoms]

The stock bushings are sleeve-rubber-tube, so they have an outer metal sleeve, a metal tube in the center, and rubber sandwiched in between. The rubber is bonded to the two metal pieces.

The metal tube in the urethane bushings is removable for two reasons: it allows the tube to rotate within the bushing, such that the only springs are the actual springs; and it has to be removed when installing or removing the bushing, making room for the urethane to be squeezed to get the shoulders through.

Without a torch, you are in for some fun.

In general, to remove the OE bushings, you remove the inner tube and the rubber and then cut a slice in the outer sleeve with a hacksaw (or some such). Then the outer sleeve can be pinched inwards until it just falls out. The easiest way to get the center and rubber out is burning, but you can also do it with a Skilsaw or by drilling lots of holes with a drill. It's going to take you a while, however, and you'll miss out on the fun of when the rubber starts to burn and drip.

- Jtoby

Just what I thought, it seems as if it's good that the sleeve is removable for installation. How hard is it to get the new ones in? I ask this because you said that the shoulders (chamfered edge area) have to be squeezed in and I'm wondering if that would need to be pressed in or I should use something like a C-Clamp. And by the way does Home Depot rents torches/acetylene welders?

 

[jtmcinder]

A press works best and cuts the time by an order of magnitude (... that's a factor of ten for you Honda guys). But I've done it using three C-clamps and some wood (... that's a slice from a tree for you ... ah, forget it).

No idea who rents torches. They're cheap and fun to have around, though. Invest!

- Jtoby

 

[Strm Trpr]

I used a 30ton shop press to do my GST rear knuckles with an assorment of sockets to press out the entire bushing, outer sleeve and inner tube all at once.
The tricky bastard is the bushing in the knuckle that connects to the trailing arm.

Here's a link that tells you how to do it.
http://www.suspension.com/tips.htm?

A propane torch should work just fine.
Heat up the knuckle around the diameter of the bushing to release the adhesive that is holding the bushing in the outer metal sleeve.
Try not to burn the bushings out, this is probably very toxic, and you should probably where a respirator.
You need a 5 gallon bucket 1/2 full with water to catch molten bushings.
Work bench with a suitable vise to hold the knuckle nice and firm so you can beat it with a hammer.
A 3lb sledge hammer.
An assortment of sockets to knock out molten bushings with hammer.
A hacksaw to cut metal sleeve that is pressed into knuckle.
Rent a tie rod end separating tool from Auto Zone, you will need this to remove the balljoint from the rear toe control arm without damaging the boot.

It is much easier to press in the new bushings.
C-Clamps can work, but you'll need some sort of receiving cylinder to allow the shoulder of the bushing to pass thru without too much difficulty.

You can always remove your rear knuckles and take them to a shop and them remove and install your new bushings.
Just make sure if you do that, remind them that all three pieces need to be removed from the knuckle.

Good luck.

 

[RWKustoms]

I used a 30ton shop press to do my GST rear knuckles with an assorment of sockets to press out the entire bushing, outer sleeve and inner tube all at once.
The tricky bastard is the bushing in the knuckle that connects to the trailing arm.

Here's a link that tells you how to do it.
http://www.suspension.com/tips.htm?

A propane torch should work just fine.
Heat up the knuckle around the diameter of the bushing to release the adhesive that is holding the bushing in the outer metal sleeve.
Try not to burn the bushings out, this is probably very toxic, and you should probably where a respirator.
You need a 5 gallon bucket 1/2 full with water to catch molten bushings.
Work bench with a suitable vise to hold the knuckle nice and firm so you can beat it with a hammer.
A 3lb sledge hammer.
An assortment of sockets to knock out molten bushings with hammer.
A hacksaw to cut metal sleeve that is pressed into knuckle.
Rent a tie rod end separating tool from Auto Zone, you will need this to remove the balljoint from the rear toe control arm without damaging the boot.

It is much easier to press in the new bushings.
C-Clamps can work, but you'll need some sort of receiving cylinder to allow the shoulder of the bushing to pass thru without too much difficulty.

You can always remove your rear knuckles and take them to a shop and them remove and install your new bushings.
Just make sure if you do that, remind them that all three pieces need to be removed from the knuckle.

Good luck.

Thanks! You guys are the best, you and jtmcinder. I'll tackle this probably next weekend when I gather up all the necessary tools and eqipment.

 

[4UH8ERS]

I am bringing this thread back from the dead for infomative purposes.

I recently installed the hyper-flex system using a press. I must say even a press can be difficult without the correct mounting plates. The thing i want to let everyone know is that when you install the new bushings in your new Knuckles, arms, ect., you need to look very closely at the actual steel edge where the oem bushings used to be (refering to the now empty hole on the arms). One side of the holes has a step-down or a slight taper which makes insertion of the new bushing 100 times easier. The opposite side is just a straight edge and no matter how much lube you may use there is a chance of slicing a bushing. So have fun, just wanted to give some advice and save you some time on your install.

 

[SILV BLT]

You can do it with a C-Clamp fairly easily. If you've got access to a drill press by any chance, grab a small piece of wood plank. Cut a hole through the middle of it and use that on the back side of the suspension component that you're installing the bushing in. This gives room for the bushing to come all the way through the component. Once you get the hang of it, it's not too hard. After doing a few of them I'm able to install each bushing in about 20-30 minutes, and that includes burning out the old one, etc. And like a few people said, just grab a propane torch. I think they're only around $20 to buy and it works perfectly fine.

 

[thegchild04]

It's not a problem if you have a hydraulic press, like I do

Can't imagine doing it without the right tools, it could easily turn into the hardest project you have done without good tools.

 

[RWKustoms]

Can you believe that after 7 months I finally installed my rear bushings. Yeah, I know I was lazy but I was also busy with school and work and I was somewhat intimidated. Anyway, I see that there's been a few more posts since then so I guess I'll just add how it went for me since this was my thread originally.

First, I really only needed to change my upper knuckle bushings because those were the only ones that were really fcuked up. I thought about removing most of the rear susp. and removing the knuckle assembly but I came up with a different idea especially since I didn't have a press and was opting for the good ol' C-Clamp method.

I first removed the bolt from the upper knuckle bushing, next I removed the bolt that holds the strut to the lower part of the knuckle assembly and then I unbolted the nut that holds the balljoint to the rear toe control arm, without damaging the boot I used an end separating tool. I had this ready from what Strm Trpr had told me above 7 months earlier.

I was able to just pull out the stock upper knuckle bushing because all that was left was just the metal sleeve/tube that the bolt goes through in the middle, all rubber was already deteriorated and missing. There were still some rubber left though due to the fact that there is a combination of two metal sleeves/tubes inside the upper knuckle.(one inner and one outer) with rubber in between them both. This was where all the BS started.

I first tried to use a hack saw to cut both inner and outer metal sleeves/tube pieces but it was taking too long so I grabbed the torch and set that bi*** on fire. The torch melted all the rubber and all the molten pieces dropped into a bucket of water I had below. This freed up the inner metal sleeve/tube piece but the outer piece was still in there. I used the hacksaw again to cut two slits in the sleeve/tube NOT CUTTING THE KNUCKLE ITSELF. I then used a little chisel looking thing (not sure of the name) and a hammer to hammer/lift/slide it out from the knuckle body and it eventually just fell out. After this I was so happy.

Next step was to install my new ES bushings. I grabbed some grease and got my C-Clamp and a piece of wood. Remember, all this was done while the knuckle was hanging outside of the fender/rear quarter panel well. My C-Clamp didn't have the flat mounting part to push up against the bushing so I actually got a hold of a 2 inch washer and welded it on which worked out 10 times better because it wasn't loose like it came from the manufacturer and the diameter was larger than the bushing itself. I then greased up the bushing and the inside of the knuckle hole and then used the wood on the exiting side of the knuckle and tightened up the clamp against the bushing. It took a little bit of time to go in but once the chamfered edges of the bushing was in I just used a wooden mallet and hit that shit all the way through which only took one hit. I then reassembled everything and went for a test drive. I remembered a couple of streets that had large potholes/bumps/manholes /speedbumps on them so I immediately went to test it out. Usually I would hear a loud banging metal to metal sound and a lot of squeaking and surprisingly I heard NOTHING.

I actually thought that this would be more of a PITA and that I would be doomed without a hydraulic press but it was actually pretty easy, just time consuming. After I did it though I wished I had taken pictures so that I could've done a writeup on this. I hope this is easy to understand without pics and stuff.

 

[wret]

After I did it though I wished I had taken pictures so that I could've done a writeup on this.

Yes, there have been many repairs and mods for which I have had good intensions of showing my superior technique and creativity,… before starting. But when you have grease up to your elbows, your BFH has just done a number on your BFThumbnail, and the last dozen words from your mouth have been un-printable, you don’t really feel like sharing.

I'm glad your bushing replacement went well.

 

[Echo5Zulu]

Yes, there have been many repairs and mods for which I have had good intensions of showing my superior technique and creativity,… before starting. But when you have grease up to your elbows, your BFH has just done a number on your BFThumbnail, and the last dozen words from your mouth have been un-printable, you don’t really feel like sharing.

I'm glad your bushing replacement went well.

Ha! So true, soo true!

 

[Spidey]

I've had the rear ES kit sitting in my garage for like 2 years with super worn out upper knuckle bushings, the car has been off the road for awhile though. Finally 2 days ago I got the rear in the air and I'm ready to do this, but I'm dreading it still. I'll be doing the hacksaw/c-clamp method, wish me luck.