burning alot of oil at idle and minimal in drive

[1Gina2G]

So i had the car sitting in the garage for just 2 days, so i primed the engine before start up and immediately upon startup white/ grayish smoke comes pouring out the exhaust.

Block is rebuilt 400 miles on regular 10w30, have not done a compression check (no tester)
Head is rebuilt , same specs as the block. No leak down tester
Turbo is also rebuilt, same miles and oil being fed from the head without a restrictor and a home made oil return from 10an braided hose.

My catchcan has 3 lines all connected to the same area of the can itself. One goes strait to the port on the turbo intake pipe. Second goes strait across to the side valve cover port while the last goes to the PCV valve after first going through an added inline check valve that functions like the pcv.

Upon removal of the intake pipe and the intercooler, some small amount of oil was found inside the IC and ic pipes along with some in the coupling of the turbo inlet. Catchcan was cleaned prior to start up and rechecked and still clean along with the intake pipe itself. Also there was no oil in the exhaust manifold or 02 housing.

I drove probably 10 miles or less after in hopes something burning off, but whenever you take off it mostly goes away but so much thick smoke at idle. Does it sound like the turbo or engine ? Thanks

 

[sleepertalon]

Sounds to me like the engine invest in a compression tester and check, if that passes take the turbo off and see if oil is coming out of manifold if not it is the turbo

 

[1Gina2G]

Sounds to me like the engine invest in a compression tester and check, if that passes take the turbo off and see if oil is coming out of manifold if not it is the turbo

Could you please explain why you think its the engine? I really don't think it is. the engine is rebuilt with 400 miles tops, i totaly doubt the rings went out from a few daily drives..
To me everything is pointing at the turbo honestly.

 

[92AWDHX40]

, take the turbo off and inspect it for seal damage is then you can rule that out for sure Sounds like a engine problem rather than a turbo, if you have seals blown in the turbo i saw smoke when mine were toast, some leakage of oil but yours seem excessive.

 

[BogusSVO]

How did you brake in the engine for those first 400 miles?

Do not rule out the rings, they still could be an issue. I just had to go through a 4B11 that had 50 miles on it, had the wrong cross hatch in the block, plus the oil scraper rings were wrong out of the box, the other shop that built it did not catch it. The engine smoked from start up , new turbo, old turbo, still smoked.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Sounds like the rings to me, your gonna have to rule something out, what are your compression numbers?

 

[boost97gst]

Valve guides/seals? He IS saying its only at idle. Or are you just noticing it at idle? If its not terribly bad have someone follow you and get into boost a little and see if its dumping bluish smoke.

 

[1Gina2G]

How did you brake in the engine for those first 400 miles?

Do not rule out the rings, they still could be an issue. I just had to go through a 4B11 that had 50 miles on it, had the wrong cross hatch in the block, plus the oil scraper rings were wrong out of the box, the other shop that built it did not catch it. The engine smoked from start up , new turbo, old turbo, still smoked.

I followed this breakin procedure first before putting any miles at all.

Use regular 10W30 oil. Before you fire up the engine, remove the MPI fuse (or wires to injectors) and crank the engine several times to build oil pressure. Put the MPI fuse back, start the engine and immediately take it to 1.5-2K to maintain the oil pressure so the lifters fill with oil and the cams bed properly. No matter what you do, don't let the engine idle. When the engine warms up and the coolant temperature is normal, bring the RPM to 3K and hold it there for 20-30 minutes. Let the RPM drop, adjust the idle and timing. When done, shut the engine off, check for any oil/coolant leaks, change the oil and the oil filter and let the engine cool down. If everything checks out OK, take the car for a spin and several 30-65-30 mph pulls at stock boost level. At this point, the engine is fully broken in, but you might want to take it easy for a few more days and keep an eye on oil/coolant leaks, loose bolts and hoses, etc. Change the oil/oil filter at 500 miles again.

There's absolutely no need to drive 500 miles under 3K or 1500 miles without boosting. As a matter of fact, you can tune the car and race the engine the same day you install it.

Followed it exactly, accept i still have not reached 500 and ive already changed the oil & filter twice,using oem Mitsubishi filters and regular 10w30 (from Minor oil drips that i fixed)

Even though the last part suggests itll be broke in, i was still cautious about accelerating hard and was sure the rebuilt transmission would also need to be broken in over time. I just drove the car around town just like a regular car almost always crusing in 5th at 55, never raced and only twice i accelerated to 70 or so just to see how itd build boost. Only problem ive ever had in drive was shutting off upon deceleration after shifting into neutral which i was still trying to figure out.

Fuel pressure, engine oil pressure & tempature , coolant, boost , wideband and exhaust temperature guages, all aftermarket, still have perfect readings...

I did mention there was no oil in the exhaust manifold. Wouldn't there be if it were the headgasket / valve seals? Im going to buy a compression tester but i just don't want to belive it. I almsost always primed the engine after pulling the mpi before startup .always gave the car plenty of time to cool down before it shut down.

Apparently alot of turbos can blow seals from these homemade oil returns...since the hose can kink thus restrictive. There's a bend in the line but its not a bad kink.

 

[BogusSVO]

Thats not the best break in method.

The whole 20-30 mins, reving from 1500-2000 rpm is not valid on the 4g63 engine. That is an old way of breaking in a flat tappet cam engine ( Domestic V8, non roller cam)

You may have glazed the cylinders so the rings will not seat.

With the 4g63 with a roller cam, bring to op temp, and boost it, you want to push the rings into the cylinder walls.

Check out the "Motorman method"

Forget the compression tester, buy a leak down tester instead.

 

[1Gina2G]

Valve guides/seals? He IS saying its only at idle. Or are you just noticing it at idle? If its not terribly bad have someone follow you and get into boost a little and see if its dumping bluish smoke.

The head has all new insides listed on my profile. It still smokes in drive! Just not as much it seems. I already did have someone follow and its deffinatley oil as white as the smoke is! Its only in drive can you see a blueish tint. But not nearly as blue as im used to seeing oil burn (elsewhere) but upon slowing down in drive more smoke will billow out as if the faster your going the less smoke. Stopping at the stop sign for just 5 seconds makes a cloud nearly as big as the car so i only drove 10 miles tops going strait home..

Also while slowing i had a small backfire ! So i didn't try slowing again!

 

[92AWDHX40]

Mine smoked on a new build and it went away, but you may have some ring issues, like bogus said grab a leakdown tester.

 

[1Gina2G]

Thats not the best break in method.

The whole 20-30 mins, reving from 1500-2000 rpm is not valid on the 4g63 engine. That is an old way of breaking in a flat tappet cam engine ( Domestic V8, non roller cam)

You may have glazed the cylinders so the rings will not seat.

With the 4g63 with a roller cam, bring to op temp, and boost it, you want to push the rings into the cylinder walls.

Check out the "Motorman method"

Forget the compression tester, buy a leak down tester instead.

I saw the motorman method and wondered about it, i also saw threads that suggested that you can also glaze your walls by boosting it to hard right away but i have no say. I just saw alot of people use both methods with no problems at all.

Isnt a leak down teaster for the head / valve seals? Or does it also function as a compression tester?
Also besides those 2 testers, is there anything else i can do to check the rings or cylinder walls? Could i examine the walls by taking the head off? Thanks again

 

[92AWDHX40]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GvG22YMOzUI]Automotive Cylinder Leak Down Test - YouTube[/ame]

im not sure how you can see the walls without pulling the head, to actually see it.

 

[BogusSVO]

A leak down checks valve seal and ring seal, since the chamber is filled with compressed air.

Not only do you read the gauge, but you listen too.

Hear air out the intake = Bad intake valve
Hear air out the exhaust = Bad exhaust valve
Hear air from the oil filler or dipstick tube = bad rings

 

[1Gina2G]

okay so big question - not sure how detailed i was about the smoke color but its mostly greyish white, only some blue is seen durring acceleration & drive. Recently read that mostly blue is oil burning in the combustion chamber while white gray if not coolant and with the smell of oil indicates oil burning in the exhaust.

Multiple threads with people that have blown turbos also report billowing white smoke mostly at idle makes me think the turbo but im going to do the leak down test regardless.

So can oil burn white in the combustion chamber?

 

[92AWDHX40]

My turbo blew smoke at idle and when it was running, i would do the leakdown test, and get us some numbers. Other wise now its anyone guess as whats wrong, rule out one thing and go from there, turbo, rings, either or.

 

[Boostdriven]

You said white/gray smoke which would indicate that its water. Black smoke mean to much fuel and blue smoke means its burning oil. If a turbo seal is bad it will not smoke immediately after the start up, the engine would have to run for a minute or so to get the exhaust hot enough to start burning the oil that's coming out of the seal. If your piston rings were not seated properly or there was a problem with the oil rings then the car would smoke right after the start up but the smoke should be unmistakably blue not white/gray.

If its indeed white/gray smoke that you see then you could have one of two problems. One would your head gasket. When at idle the vacuum in the cylinder would pull the water in and as you drive the car you have less vacuum so you get less water entering the engine therefore less smoke. hopefully that's not the case.

Another problem you can have is in throttle body. You have an o-ring type gasket between the idle air controller motor housing and the throttle body itself. If you have water hooked up to your throttle body and that gasket is leaking you will get water in the engine. Engine vacuum has the same effect on that as a bad head gasket.

One thing you can check is your spark plugs. Start the car and let it smoke for a little bit as it runs. Let it run for a minute or so just don't let it warm up fully. After you run it pull your plugs and check to see if one looks different from the others. If you have one that looks much different in color then you probably have a head gasket problem in that particular cylinder. If the plugs all look the same but the engine still smoked white/gray while it was running then the water is entering your engine at the throttle body. I hope this helps.

As for engine break in there are many ideas for how to do it. Can't say which is the best but if you look up on YouTube how Audi breaks in the new engine on the Audi R8 its interesting to see. They run that new engine at 8000 rpms under load for like 2 hours before they ok it to go in the car. So go figure, that brand new car you buy with 0 miles already has at least 2 hours of abuse

 

[black97spyder]

Boostdriven- can you explain the throttle body leak that you mentioned a little better?

Sorry, not trying to thread jack but am curious about what's causing the smoke

I'm having similar issue with my car. I took the turbo and I/C off today and found oil in my J-pipe, I/C, UICP, and intake... The turbo has about 1/8" - 1/4"of play side to side and no In and out play. There's no oil in the downpipe, or exhaust mani. Bottom end has close to 9,000 miles on it, head has around 4,000 miles and got bran new valves, valve seals and a 3-angle valve job and turbo close to the same miles as bottom end(its an eBay 16g) and spark plugs (bpr7es) all look the same and have a tiny bit of fouling but that's ###### due to not having Dsmlink yet.

Does this sound like turbo seals to you? That's what everything seems to be pointing to. Haven't done a compression test or leakdown test yet ### haven't had any performance issues

 

[1Gina2G]

You said white/gray smoke which would indicate that its water. Black smoke mean to much fuel and blue smoke means its burning oil. If a turbo seal is bad it will not smoke immediately after the start up, the engine would have to run for a minute or so to get the exhaust hot enough to start burning the oil that's coming out of the seal. If your piston rings were not seated properly or there was a problem with the oil rings then the car would smoke right after the start up but the smoke should be unmistakably blue not white/gray.

If its indeed white/gray smoke that you see then you could have one of two problems. One would your head gasket. When at idle the vacuum in the cylinder would pull the water in and as you drive the car you have less vacuum so you get less water entering the engine therefore less smoke. hopefully that's not the case.

Another problem you can have is in throttle body. You have an o-ring type gasket between the idle air controller motor housing and the throttle body itself. If you have water hooked up to your throttle body and that gasket is leaking you will get water in the engine. Engine vacuum has the same effect on that as a bad head gasket.

One thing you can check is your spark plugs. Start the car and let it smoke for a little bit as it runs. Let it run for a minute or so just don't let it warm up fully. After you run it pull your plugs and check to see if one looks different from the others. If you have one that looks much different in color then you probably have a head gasket problem in that particular cylinder. If the plugs all look the same but the engine still smoked white/gray while it was running then the water is entering your engine at the throttle body. I hope this helps.

As for engine break in there are many ideas for how to do it. Can't say which is the best but if you look up on YouTube how Audi breaks in the new engine on the Audi R8 its interesting to see. They run that new engine at 8000 rpms under load for like 2 hours before they ok it to go in the car. So go figure, that brand new car you buy with 0 miles already has at least 2 hours of abuse

Thanks for all the tips! What a great forum this is.

My TB was bought rebuilt my a legit company and does have water going to it. With that said i know the smoke is mostly oil from how it smells and from seeing the oil level lower from ideal level after the run, which oil levels always checked before anything. Im not able to say if its an oil water mix though since i have a dripping coolant overflow till one that fits better comes in.

It was either immediately or after 1 minute of running on a cold start up that i noticed the exhaust was staying around and continuing to build up. Just how oil smoke does but definitely white grey instead of blue at idle.

Did you notice i primed the engine a good 2-3 times each for a good 30 seconds before the startup? I'm not sure, but couldn't oil still get to the turbo from the priming? I definitely didn't just start up after sitting a few days without priming so j.w.

Surely you've heard of oil burning in the exhaust before right? Thing is though my 02 housing as well as my exhaust manifold dont look oily inside, along with the ends of the down pipe & catback. But i don't want to take the exhaust off juat to see, when it very well probably burned off mostly everything.

Did you also catch that i was backfiring upon slowing down in gear?

 

[Boostdriven]

Boostdriven- can you explain the throttle body leak that you mentioned a little better?

Sorry, not trying to thread jack but am curious about what's causing the smoke

I'm having similar issue with my car. I took the turbo and I/C off today and found oil in my J-pipe, I/C, UICP, and intake... The turbo has about 1/8" - 1/4"of play side to side and no In and out play. There's no oil in the downpipe, or exhaust mani. Bottom end has close to 9,000 miles on it, head has around 4,000 miles and got bran new valves, valve seals and a 3-angle valve job and turbo close to the same miles as bottom end(its an eBay 16g) and spark plugs (bpr7es) all look the same and have a tiny bit of fouling but that's ###### due to not having Dsmlink yet.

Does this sound like turbo seals to you? That's what everything seems to be pointing to. Haven't done a compression test or leakdown test yet ### haven't had any performance issues

If you flip the throttle body upside-down you will see 5 screws holding the IAC motor housing to the throttle body. If you take that off you will see the water passage in that housing, around it is an o-ring type gasket. If that gasket is bad water can get in to the air passage for the IAC motor and then go in to the engine. In this situation the smoke would be more white/gray and not blue.

You can take the radiator cap off and fill up the water to the top then do a boost leak test. If that gasket is bad then you should see some bubbles coming up at the radiator cap when the intake is pressurized. You can pressurize the intake system at the throttle body for this test if you have the turbo off the car already.

I don't know how you got your breathers set up from the valve cover but if you have one of them going right to the intake pipe its possible that blow by oil is getting in to the intake pipe and then in to the turbo and so on but usually if any oil gets in there that way its not much. If you have oil puddling up in the intercooler pipe or the intercooler its possible that you're getting oil in there from the turbo. Usually even if you have oil puddled up in the intercooler the car should not smoke at idle because there isn't enough air flow going through the pipes to draw that oil all the way in to the engine. In this situation you will see the car smoke when you are in boost. I haven't taken a 16g apart for years now so I can't really remember what keeps the oil from leaking on the compressor side other then the piston ring. Usually there is a rubber o-ring that sits around the piece that has a thrust bearing collar in it. If that o-ring is bad you can get a lot of oil in to the pipes and the intercooler. Also check if there was any oil puddled up in the compressor cover.

 

[black97spyder]

If you flit the throttle body upside-down you will see 5 screws holding the IAC motor housing to the throttle body. If you take that off you will see the water passage in that housing, around it is an o-ring type gasket. If that gasket is bad water can get in to the air passage for the IAC motor and then go in to the engine. In this situation the smoke would be more white/gray and not blue.

You can take the radiator cap off and fill up the water to the top then do a boost leak test. If that gasket is bad then you should see some bubbles coming up at the radiator cap when the intake is pressurized. You can pressurize the intake system at the throttle body for this test if you have the turbo off the car already.

I don't know how you got your breathers set up from the valve cover but if you have one of them going right to the intake pipe its possible that blow by oil is getting in to the intake pipe and then in to the turbo and so on but usually if any oil gets in there that way its not much. If you have oil puddling up in the intercooler pipe or the intercooler its possible that you're getting oil in there from the turbo. Usually even if you have oil puddled up in the intercooler the car should not smoke at idle because there isn't enough air flow going through the pipes to draw that oil all the way in to the engine. In this situation you will see the car smoke when you are in boost. I haven't taken a 16g apart for years now so I can't really remember what keeps the oil from leaking on the compressor side other then the piston ring. Usually there is a rubber o-ring that sits around the piece that has a thrust bearing collar in it. If that o-ring is bad you can get a lot of oil in to the pipes and the intercooler. Also check if there was any oil puddled up in the compressor cover.

I have both breathers blocked off on the turbo inlet pipe thinking that I was just sucking in oil blow by from the valvecover, which isn't the case.

The car will ONLY smoke at idle, if i revv it up then it pretty much quits smoking from what i can see. If the car is fully warm and i start it up, it will blow a nice lil cloud out the exhaust when first started and then will do it ONLY smoke after idling for about 15 seconds then the smoke will start slowly getting pretty noticable and I'll revv it up so it'll stop and then about 15 more seconds and Itll start slowly smoking again.... Everything was fine about 2 weeks ago, then I put my 3" downpipe on and straight 3" pipes with no muffler and since then the smoke started and has been steadily getting worse?

Car is fully stripped down For a couple weeks while Justin rebuilds the turbo so I can't do a leak down test yet.... What are your thoughts?

 

[Boostdriven]

Thanks for all the tips! What a great forum this is.

My TB was bought rebuilt my a legit company and does have water going to it. With that said i know the smoke is mostly oil from how it smells and from seeing the oil level lower from ideal level after the run, which oil levels always checked before anything. Im not able to say if its an oil water mix though since i have a dripping coolant overflow till one that fits better comes in.

It was either immediately or after 1 minute of running on a cold start up that i noticed the exhaust was staying around and continuing to build up. Just how oil smoke does but definitely white grey instead of blue at idle.

Did you notice i primed the engine a good 2-3 times each for a good 30 seconds before the startup? I'm not sure, but couldn't oil still get to the turbo from the priming? I definitely didn't just start up after sitting a few days without priming so j.w.

Surely you've heard of oil burning in the exhaust before right? Thing is though my 02 housing as well as my exhaust manifold dont look oily inside, along with the ends of the down pipe & catback. But i don't want to take the exhaust off juat to see, when it very well probably burned off mostly everything.

Did you also catch that i was backfiring upon slowing down in gear?

I don't think you can get much oil leaking out of the turbo as you're cranking to prime the system. Your turbo exhaust seal would have to be really bad for oil to leak during cranking. Even if you did dump bunch of oil in to the exhaust system from the turbo as you primed it, car would still not smoke right after the start up, everything would have to get hot first. If the smoke is definitely white/gray then its not oil. You may smell a little bit of oil and it may smoke blue a little as you drive but that's because your engine is very fresh and the rings are not 100% seated yet. You may be losing a little bit of oil for a little while as your rings seat. Depending on the ring type some rings can take up to few 1000 miles to seat 100%

I don't know what kind of overflow tank you have but if its getting filled up all the way and water starts to overflow then its possible that something else is pushing the water out other then just the normal pressure buildup from warming up. If your overflow tank is about a quart in size then empty it out and fill up your radiator to the top. Start the car and maybe drive it for a little bit but stay out of boost. If that overflow tank gets filled up full and you see water going over the top then you might have a problem with a head gasket. Normally on my car I get about a half a quart of water pushed in to the overflow tank as the car is fully warmed up and I drive it for a little while.

When you're slowing down in gear look at your wideband, as soon as u let off the throttle in gear your wideband should go to lean, if it doesn't then your ECU is not seeing a closed throttle therefore keeps putting fuel in the engine. Check to make sure that your TPS reads 0% when throttle is closed. On the 2G TPS there are 4 prongs in the sensor, one of them activates a closed throttle signal to the ECU. On a 1G there is 3 prongs in the TPS and 4th wire goes to a switch located on the firewall side of the throttle body. If you have a 1G TPS and don't have that closed throttle switch on the throttle body your ECU will not see closed throttle and will keep putting fuel in to the engine as you slow down in gear which could cause back firing.

I have both breathers blocked off on the turbo inlet pipe thinking that I was just sucking in oil blow by from the valvecover, which isn't the case.

The car will ONLY smoke at idle, if i revv it up then it pretty much quits smoking from what i can see. If the car is fully warm and i start it up, it will blow a nice lil cloud out the exhaust when first started and then will do it ONLY smoke after idling for about 15 seconds then the smoke will start slowly getting pretty noticable and I'll revv it up so it'll stop and then about 15 more seconds and Itll start slowly smoking again.... Everything was fine about 2 weeks ago, then I put my 3" downpipe on and straight 3" pipes with no muffler and since then the smoke started and has been steadily getting worse?

Car is fully stripped down For a couple weeks while Justin rebuilds the turbo so I can't do a leak down test yet.... What are your thoughts?

What you are describing sounds like you have a problem with valve seals. I know the engine is fairly new and you wouldn't think that valve seals could be the case but I've seen this kind of problem before on my friends car. He had a fresh motor with maybe few thousand miles on it when it started to smoke like you described. Turns out he didn't push down all the way few of the valve seals and eventual they worked their way off the guide and car started to smoke. You can pull the valve cover off and try and look at the seals to see if they all look pushed down all the way and make sure that they all still have that little spring around the top of them. Pay more attention to the intake side since its the side that sees vacuum.

If your throttle body is on the car you should be able to pressurise the system from the throttle body elbow. Take your valve cover off when you do that so you can hear better if the seals are leaking a lot of air. You may have a problem with just a few of then and with valve cover off you will be able to isolate them. If it turns out that its the problem there is a way of changing the seals without pulling the head off the car, its kind of a pain but it can be done. If it comes down to that let me know and I'll give you few tips on how to do that is you need ideas.

 

[1Gina2G]

I just wanted to clarify my catchcan setup with a basic drawing. The top setup is what I have on.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Also wanted to clarify - the backfiring and the car shutting off were 2 different problems, backfiring just started happening after the first smokey drive.

Car seems to only shut off in drive when i throw it into neutral to slow down rapidly, its hard to tell if its when i let off the clutch to fast ( which i think) or from hitting the break hard but its never just shut off from just pushing the clutch in. My thread-

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...decelerating-neutral-iac-checks-out-good.html

So with that said, i have noticed the wideband go lean when you let off the throttle but never been able to watch it when it happens since it happens unexpectedly in 2 seconds, not like it shuts off back to back going into neutral. Also the front 02 is in the housing and is new with the correctly voltage according to evoscan. Also used evoscan to adjust and set TPS voltage and percentage which i rechecked.

Thanks for everything, i cant wait to get back home and do some testing. I just really hope i didn't junk my new engine just because i held off on the boost a little....only a leak down test will show i guess.

Would i be wrong in trying to retorque the head to 90 in sequence? Just for the hell of it? Before i take off the head and or engine out...

 

[Boostdriven]

I just wanted to clarify my catchcan setup with a basic drawing. The top setup is what I have on.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Also wanted to clarify - the backfiring and the car shutting off were 2 different problems, backfiring just started happening after the first smokey drive.

Car seems to only shut off in drive when i throw it into neutral to slow down rapidly, its hard to tell if its when i let off the clutch to fast ( which i think) or from hitting the break hard but its never just shut off from just pushing the clutch in. My thread-

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...decelerating-neutral-iac-checks-out-good.html

So with that said, i have noticed the wideband go lean when you let off the throttle but never been able to watch it when it happens since it happens unexpectedly in 2 seconds, not like it shuts off back to back going into neutral. Also the front 02 is in the housing and is new with the correctly voltage according to evoscan. Also used evoscan to adjust and set TPS voltage and percentage which i rechecked.

Thanks for everything, i cant wait to get back home and do some testing. I just really hope i didn't junk my new engine just because i held off on the boost a little....only a leak down test will show i guess.

Would i be wrong in trying to retorque the head to 90 in sequence? Just for the hell of it? Before i take off the head and or engine out...

Looking at the top picture I don’t see a point of using a check valve or the pcv valve, those just become a restriction for the air flow. Take both of them out and replace the pcv valve with just a nipple the same size as your hose. It should be 1/8” pipe tread on the valve cover side, you can pick one up at most of the parts stores. I would also disconnect the line that runs from your catch can to the intake pipe. Having it ran like that not only puts exhaust gases (blow by) back in to your motor but also cheats your MAF sensor from reading 100% of the air that’s going in to the engine because now it’s taking air from the crank case which is unmetered.

The problem with car shutting off when you let off the throttle could be due to the fact that you’re not running the hose from the pcv valve to the intake manifold. When you eliminate that you eliminate the extra air that the engine is used to getting. Another thing could be if your base timing is not set correctly. If the timing is correct for sure then run the car till it’s fully warmed up. As the car idles turn the BISS screw out a half a turn at a time. Not sure if the evoscan has an option for logging idle air control motor speed but if it does turn it on and log the IAC motor speed while you’re messing with the BISS screw. With ECMLink the IAC speed should be around 35 which is about 15% higher then the slowest speed it can go. If you don’t have an option for logging IAC then just turn the screw till the IAC motor cannot keep up causing your engine to idle high like at 1100 rpms then just turn the screw back in, do it half a turn at a time again giving the IAC few seconds between each turn to catch up. Once the engine drops to your desired rpms you should be set.

If you have ARPs then you should have just torqued those things to 100ft lbs to begin with. If you have then at 85 or so then trying to tighten them down to 90 is not going to do you any good, I bet your torque wrench will click before the nut turns. If you feel you should retorque your head then you will have to go through a little process to do it. You will want to do one stud at a time starting from the center and working your way out one stud at a time each way. Crack the nut lose then tighten it by hand till it feel snug or like 30ft lbs. Have your torque wrench set to 100, try to do the final torque with one sweep motion, so as you start turning the wrench you don’t stop till it clicks. Do one stud at a time like that and you should be set there.

 

[redbud23]

Sounds like to me valve guide seals are not installed right. Check the turbo also just because it is rebuild does not mean it is not the fault.