bullseye housing stripped

[aero_sallee]

Any of you guys been around turbo diesel dodges? They use grease for the gasket. When I put my HX40 W bullseye housing on my metal gasket was fubar. The bolts would never stay tight with the old 16g. I had to tighten them every few weeks.
I used a thin layer of axle grease for the mani/turbo gasket. Just take it slow and dont boost for a few miles. The grease buns up and leaves carbon deposits that seal quite well. So far have a few thousand miles on it and no exhaust leaks there whatsoever. Its another story for the standard seals I used on the O2 housing.

 

[turboTSi1320]

You have no luck Jesse. I dont understand why everyone is always so fast to jump down your through all the time. This site is becoming so petty. Take it to a machine shop I guess

 

[Coup D E'Tat]

Alright, I ended up doing some work on the housing.

I cut the bolt that is broke off (the manifold-turbo bolt) slightly in order to clear everything, but I didn't want to cut down to the turbo. As for backing out the bolt using the two-bolt method, I'm not even going to bother. I'm going to let it go for now, use copper spray, and hope it seals. If it doesn't, it will be pulled eventually and taken to a machine shop.

On to the O2 housing bolt that broke off - I needed that bolt, as that is what my wastegate bolts to. However, drilling is almost out of the question, and I don't trust "Easy Out," so I found a bolt with a smaller diameter than the O2 housing bolts, cut off the head, and tack welded it onto the broken off bolt. I then cut a little material away from the gasket, and used my die grinder to open up the O2 housing flange a tad, so that it would clear the weld and sit flush. I then used a nut, and tightened it down.

A bit of a hassle, but hopefully everything will turn out alright.

 

[turboTSi1320]

Good to see things are working out..

 

[ShapeGSX]

I had a similar problem with my MHI e16g.

I don't think anyone out there is retarded or stupid for busting exhaust bolts.. it just seem that the nature of the beast lies somewhere else.

I seriously pulled my turbo atleast 15 times. And everytime I pulled it, 1 hole would strip, everytime I would have to retap it and buy a new bolt. Drop it again, a new one would strip, so on the 2nd time around I was like, ok time to buy all new bolts even though the one I got before were new bad batch (maybe).

When you torque these bolts, what procedure do you use?

 

[TTA89]

Snugg tight with the car cold. Warm the car up, the bolts should be free again. Tighten them some more. Then when the car cools the metal will de-expand and tighten good. But when you take them back off before you turn a wrech make sure the car is warm. Use this tighten pattern here. Also nickel antiseize is a must as well.

1 4


3 2

 

[ShapeGSX]

Personally, I just follow the procedure in the 2G manual. You need to have 2 washers on each bolt, and they must be positioned with the dimples facing outward. The manual explains all of this. Then the procedure for tightening is something like tighten to 26lb-ft. Then turn the bolt another 90 degrees. That is close, but probably not dead on. So check the manual before following my advice.

I've had a bolt snap before, but I've never lost any threads. The snapped bolt was quite old, and had probably been on for 40k. Nickel anti-seize on everything.

 

[Morphius]

Any of you guys been around turbo diesel dodges? They use grease for the gasket.

No, they use a thin metal gasket.

 

[aero_sallee]

Thats what I had always thought also. I was told the grease thing by a guy who works in a freightliner semi shop. I suppose maybe he mixed it up and it came from some other manufacturer? If I'm wrong I'm wrong, but it does seem to be working great for me. Several thousand miles and absolutley no problems with it, and no retightening so far. And it was damn cheap too. I can see that it wouldn't work in some situations, like uneven sealing surfaces.


But hey just an idea and my personal experience has been positive. YMMV as always.

 

[pickens]

I had a bulls-eye turbine housing strip on me too. Except, the bolt broke inside the housing. Not fun to get out. If its any correlation, I never had any issues w/ four different mitsu housings re-using the same bolts maybe like 50 times!

 

[SleeperG]

what happens is there are boogers in the threads. if you start backing out a bolt and there is even the tiniest piece of debris, it can catch, and wedge itself between the threads. thats why its easy to back out at first then it gets tough. if had this happen just from hand trheading a bolt then backing it out 3 seconds later. then you take a wrench to it and it breaks. i too use a bullsye housing.
sucks
the secret (which is by no means a secret)

1 do use new bolts or like new ones(wouldn't hurt to drag it through a die). if you pull a bolt out and its obviously decayed, don't try to reuse it.
2 always always always chase the threads. always. before you reinstall turbo bolts. be positive its clear of debis.
3 use a high quality anit seize every time. put it on the threads, and the washer so you get the most accurate torque readings

when i switched to these
http://www.ffwdconnection.com/boltkits.shtml

yeah they cost a few bucks. but i've never broken one since i switched to them . i install them with moly lube, and torque them to 40 ft/lbs
but of course. i chase the threads every time.

also. i have used the grease method too for sealing gaskets and it does in fact work. works quite well. i have actually successfully reused a one time only 'crushing mesh type exhaust gasket 3 times over with no leaks.
now i use solid steel gaskets with copper seal spray. but it uses the same principle.

 

[steel_3d]

The bolts on my bullseye don't like to stay tight. I've retightened them warm and cold, but they've still been loose the two times I've looked. This last time one of the bolts was backed out a quarter inch. What's worse, it would only turn a half-turn by hand easily, in or out. So I poured a bunch of liquid werench down the hole, and kept working it by hand. Wiggling it side to side while screwing it in and out eventually got it past the catching point, and I managed to get it out. I doused it with antiseize again, we'll see if it's easier next time.

The point is that the side loads helped me get it out. I had to wiggle it pretty hard.

SleeperG, what do you mean by chasing the threads, if not running it through a die?

 

[SleeperG]

run the boolt through a die. run a tap through the housing to chase the threads. you are just maintainingn the threads more or less. getting outall the oxidation and filings that may be lurking within.

when you chase the threads you will help eliminate the possibility of the bolt getting wedged in by a piece of debris or by a thread that was left behing by on old bolt.

make sure you use some good tap lubricant for your tap and die set to keep them sharp

 

[99gst_racer]

SleeperG - Those bolt kits that ffwdconnection is selling are simply ARP bolts. I've used them and broke them. I spoke with a technitian at APR afterwards and he advised against using their hardware on the manifold and/or turbine housing. He told me that they are definitely not designed for the heat of those components.

I've had the best luck with my 6 year old set of stock bolts.

Here's a pic of the ARP's after their first removal only a couple months after they were installed:

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[SleeperG]

those don't look much like my set. mine are 12 point
if you broke all 4 of them then you have done something wrong.


i'm i never said that arp's cannot be broken.

the key really is maintaining the threads and using the right anti sieze.

 

[99gst_racer]

those don't look much like my set. mine are 12 point

What difference does the head make? It's the same bolt set, but with a different head.....

if you broke all 4 of them then you have done something wrong.

Like what?

i'm i never said that arp's cannot be broken.

Understood. But I wouldn't be so quick to recommend them especially when ARP recommends against using them for manifold bolts.....

the key really is maintaining the threads and using the right anti sieze.

Maintaining the threads? I started with clean threads. I put brand new ARP bolts into a brand new turbine housing and I used plenty of nickel anti-seize, and they still broke coming out..... When I installed them, they went in all the way by hand. I tried removing them with the manifold cold, then warm, then hot; that only made a difference of where the bolt broke. What kind of thread maintenance would have made a difference in my situation?

Of all the times I've removed different turbos from my car, these ARP's have been the only bolts to break and cause problems. I've never had a problem with the stockers.

 

[Omega]

As far as chasing the turbo housing holes. Can someone confirm that they are M10x1.25?

 

[IPT]

Yes they are M10x1.25