Building my motor and would like some input.

[1GBOOSTIN]

I've had the car for for some time now and have finally got some money built up to spend on it. While I have the motor out I'm also sending it to paint, so its getting completely rebuilt except for the drive tran for now. To start I was looking at getting some gsc power 274 cams, springs, retainers, vaulves, and guides. Hks adjustable cam gears. Arp head studs, hermonic balncer bolts, cam bolts, flywheel bolts, and connecting rod bolts. Eagle h beam rods. Weisco pistons not sure which ones yet. Areomotive a1000 regulator.74mm billet throttle body. Aem high volume file rail. Injector dynamics injectors not sure what cc to get. I'm probably gonna get Gsc power race balance shaft. And I found someone that can rebuilt and bore out my turbo to the 20g. I'm looking for hope fully 550-600 whp but I want to be able to drive it regularly, I can put miles on the one I'm currently driving but I miss my talon so much any suggestion or positive changes please let me know I'm hopeing to have the car up and operational again in 5 months or so when its all done I'll up load some picks of the before and after and thanks in advance to any one that helps

 

[BogusSVO]

I've had the car for for some time now and have finally got some money built up to spend on it. While I have the motor out I'm also sending it to paint, so its getting completely rebuilt except for the drive tran for now.
To start I was looking at getting some gsc power 274 cams,

springs, retainers,

vaulves, and guides.

Hks adjustable cam gears.

Arp head studs,

hermonic balncer bolts,

cam bolts,

flywheel bolts,

and connecting rod bolts.

Eagle h beam rods.

Weisco pistons not sure which ones yet.

Areomotive a1000 regulator.74mm billet throttle body. Aem high volume file rail. Injector dynamics injectors not sure what cc to get. I'm probably gonna get Gsc power race balance shaft. And I found someone that can rebuilt and bore out my turbo to the 20g. I'm looking for hope fully 550-600 whp but I want to be able to drive it regularly, I can put miles on the one I'm currently driving but I miss my talon so much any suggestion or positive changes please let me know I'm hopeing to have the car up and operational again in 5 months or so when its all done I'll up load some picks of the before and after and thanks in advance to any one that helps

First off, why ARP rod bolts and H beam rods? The H beams will come with ARP rod bolts.

What lead you to your choice of parts?

The GSC race shaft will only work if the rear BS bearing has not been beat or spun out.

All the ARP bolts you have listed are a nice upgrade.

Most will say the stock fuel rail will support what you are doing.

 

[1GBOOSTIN]

After talking to a few people around me that deal with the cars this is the part setup I came up with I didn't put any thing about bearing or seals because I haven't made any definite decision on them yet. I didn't know that the rods came with the bolts that's why I listed them. I also herd that fuel rail would be good up to the point in wanting to take it but I just happened across the aem and it was 130 so I figured it wouldn't be a bad addition with what I have already set up is there anything else you see wrong or do you think it will be a good setup

 

[BogusSVO]

Doubt the 20g turbo will get you 550-600hp

The rod piston combo I have been building with recently are BC Rods and JE/SRP pistons

I like the BC rods for a few reasons, One is you can get the 6 bolt rod with the 22mm wrist pin, the larger wrist bin will allow for a slightly better load distribution.

Also the BC rods are the closest in a matched weight that I have found, after checking Eagle, Scat and Manley.

You list springs, but what spring set?

What valves? Std? or +1mm

What are you going to do for machine work?

What are you going to use to tune.

You have parts listed that are nice to have, but you have missed some key components that will make the build last and run right.

 

[1GBOOSTIN]

I'm running the aem series 2 ems the machine work and tune will most likely be done by a awd tuning shop close to my house but your comparison of pistons and rods is what I'm looking for and the finer points I'm no certified mechanic so I'm looking for what I missed and what's gonna get me to my goal while making the build last like are the rod and pistons you suggested good for the longevity or just light mainly in just trying to better my build and learn some along the way by figuring out what build have worked and haven't also do I need ported and polished head ,angle cut values.

 

[95DsManiac]

20g for sure isn't getting you a reliable 600whp car. Also some parts don't go good with others.

Like 274 cams and a bastard 20g. I would do a lot of research before buying anything. If you want reliable then were talking a dual bb gt35, maybe an hx40 if you want a cheaper route? 264/272 or some smaller 272s like bc would be ok. As far as internals I would listen to bogus he knows his stuff and works at a machine shop. I do too but not as long as he has. The word reliable can turn a build sour, because if you truly wanted a reliable 600whp car then there is going to a lot more, a lot more then what your posting about. I mean, I don't even know what made you think a bastard 20g will do??

Machine work is key too. What clearances are you going to run? Top ring gap, bottom ring gap, piston to wall clearance? Don't just let someone chose your clearance for you because they said they work on cars. Wrong clearances will leave a new built engine not runnig right for long. For starters, you can run them to spec or you can run them looser or tighter. I run .0045 piston to wall clearance, .022 top ring gap and .026 bottom ring gap. These are safer and lose clearances. Do some research and see what is working with others cars with power goals similar to yours.

On my old 20g set up I made 434fwhp on 91 and meth. With 264/272 cams and stock engine besides that. Drove the car everyday and what ended going bad? The head gasket. You can make 600 reliable, but why 600? Why a 600whp street car? A 400-450whp street car would be easier to make reliable and will still be a tone of fun. If your just looking for advice then this is what I have on my street car and I think it still isn't reliable,

Hx40 bep, hafe, tail 38mm, 1600cc, dsmlink v3, sd, web 546/547, 3" exhaust, 3" Intercooler 2.5" piping, greddy BOV, 450 pump, 6 an feed and return, wiseco 9.0:1 eagle h beam ACL bearing blueprinted block with my own clearances, all the other necessary bolt ons, etc etc the list goes on. To make the 600 mark I'm going to be pushing close to 40 psi. Holsets are known to be tranny killers and bam, there's goes your reliability.

Now if you really do want a reliable 600whp car after thinking it through reply back and I will have a list (big list) of things/parts for a reliable 600whp car. I just would hate to see you do a bunch of things and spends a lot of money and you not get what your looking for.

Ported and polished helps if it's done right and is matched to the cars set up. It all comes down to make this part work with that part. Making this part run hand in hand in performance and reliablity with that part. Honestly I think reliable comes down to your driving habits and a good tune. Because you can have a 600whp car and only drive it to its potential at the track and be better off then someone who dogs there car every chance they can because they have the power at hand. I've barely got into the dsm game little over a year ago and have done three builds and now have two of them. I think my most reliable set up was the 20g. After that the hx40 and gt42, not so reliable. But I'm not too worried about it, the gt42 is on the drag car and the hx40 on the street car. I got the car to have fun and the gsT is to compete.

I think the next question for me to ask you is what exactly are you going to be doing with this car? Drag racing, autox, or a 600whp street car?

Hope this helps, god bless

Anthony B.

 

[1GBOOSTIN]

Thank you very much for you insightful post my goals for the car remain the same I would love to have 600 whp street car. The car is my baby and that's why I'm trying for reliable. As for what I'm doing with it I understand the risk of things breaking and my other car can get me around if I need to fix my tsi personally my plans are to drive it regularly and occasionally take it to a track or participate in some rally cross races I will do some more research on some stuff. I also wasn't trying to get people to pick my clearances or anything I was just trying to learn from other experiences

 

[89Patches]

Building a motor is a small piece of the puzzle for a 600whp "Streetcar"

Is the rest of you car ready to make more power? Suspension, Brakes, drivetrain etc..

I can't count how many times I've been in a 600whp "street car" that all the person did was focus on the motor and just making power while the rest of the car is a pile of crap.

It's better to have a well round 400whp car then a car that just puts good numbers down.

That's just my opinion anyway

 

[1GBOOSTIN]

I was thinking a brimbo big brake kit for the brakes just rebuilt the trans a couple years ago (even tho its been sitting for 2) also just did a suspension upgrade a month ago ect ect the rest of the car should be ready for it but if something breaks I've found plenty of places to get performance drivetrain parts

 

[tryingtofixthis]

600hp? really? if its making 600, its basically made to race and only race. i literally dont think its possible to make a 600hp 4cyl. that can also be a daily driver. not because of legal issues or anything, but because the engine tuning, machining, and fuel would have to be super specific. basically im saying it would be too much power for any dd driving.

200-300 is more realistic, plus you can do some things to loeave some room, to where you can have multiple setups and get more horses at the track, maybe 400-430 max, playing with different fuels, air mixtures, different tunes, raising the psi, ect.

you could make 600hp on a different heavier engine with more cylinders as a daily driver.