Broken timing belt, starting from scratch on this one

[buckz6319]

My daughters 2003 Eclipse timing belt broke, and I'm starting from scratch on this one..2003 2.4.

I have searched and saved lots of threads on timing belt topics, and will keep referring back to them, and keep searching

I am a long time wrench spinner and have done timing belt replacements before, however this one seems a bit more complicated on the tension side pre loading.

I have completed a cylinder leak down test to ensure that the engine has no valve issues, and all are within specs, so I'm continuing on with the expedition

I have searched, and I'm a little confused about special tool threaded rod MD998738,

I know that this tool is used to put load on the tension arm, so the hydraulic tensioner pin can be reinstalled, then the process of removing the belt can begin..

I don"t have that tool, and don't feel like I need it at this point because the timing belt is not on,I know one can be made, but will I need one at this point


however the timing belt on my daughters engine broke so there fore I'm starting from scratch with this one, so the hydraulic tensioner pin was extended out fully.I removed the tensioner and compressed it per the manual, installed the pin and saw a hydraulic leak around the seal, so I purchased another tensioner

I'm at the point now where the timing marks are all in order and belt is installed.I haven't installed the new hydraulic tensioner yet, because I'm not sure if I will need the tool MD998738

I do have the tool MD998767 for the timing belt tension adjustment

I'm not sure how to use the tool Md998767 because the tension arm wants to pivot up, as I put pre load tension on the belt, does the screw tool Md998738 keep the tension arm from pivoting when pre loading the belt, all the manuals and on line postings are procedures for replacing the timing belt at recommended intervals..but not on starting from scratch without a belt
I'm lost on this one...
I appreciate any advice i can get,,thanks!

after much searching,I decided to purchase the MD998738.The tool should be here this week

Hopefully I can get this eclipse finished by this weekend for my daughter, and get my car back

 

[buckz6319]

I hope that some members have experienced this issue I'm having trying to tension the belt, and any advice will be much appreciated!

When I try to put tension on the timing belt using the eccentric pulley, the entire tension arm will move up (pivot up) with me trying to tension the belt, because nothing is stopping it from pivoting.I think that I need to install that long screw tool MD998738? ...scratching my head on this one.

Do I need to install the long screw tool MD998738 to keep the tension arm from moving up, as I try to tension the eccentric pulley? the manuals only have instructions for this tool to be used when removing the timing belt.If I install the tool should I screw the tool in to the point where the tension arm is touching the tip of the pushrod, then tension the eccentric pulley to specs and the tensioner? then remove the tool

I have searched and searched but have found nothing on this issue or I'm just not putting in the right KEY word or words

Every manual and online pic and instructions show the tool long screw MD998738 being installed so, pressure can be put on the tension arm, thus pushing down on the hydraulic tensioner push rod, so the pin can be put in..all these steps are with belt still on the engine..when getting to the tensioning part in the manuals,the pics do not show that tool still in place

I haven't found how this is done correctly with starting with a new belt

 

[steve]

Keep in mind that this is a forum for 1990-1999 DSM's so the support for 3G Eclipse is going to be spotty. It would help to know which engine your working on, one of the inline 4's or the v6.

I assume you have replaced the auto-tensioner and it's currently has the pin in holding the adjuster rod in the default position. If not take it off, slowly compress it in a vice and reinstall the pin. You won't take it out until the very end.

The 4 cylinder engines are easier than the V6's to get the timing belt on since you have half the cams to line up and on the 3G I think all the engine choices are SOHC so you only have one cam per head.

The trick is to back the sprocket you are currently putting the belt on a tooth, get the belt on it and turn it forward to it's timing mark. If the belt is loose, back it up, do it again but put the belt on the next tooth and check the marks. You want the belt as tight as it will go between each sprocket so that it can't move when you get to adjusting the tensioner pulley.

The tensioner pulley will be flopping around until the belt is on each sprocket and your adjusting the tensioner to take up any extra belt. You then rotate the tensioner pulley around it's eccentric bolt until it applies pressure to the belt and starts to compress against the auto-tensioner. There is a tool that fits into the two holes in the tensioner pulley that is used to rotate it and hold it so you can tighten the bolt. You rotate the pulley into the belt, tensioning it until the adjuster pin can be moved around freely and then lock down the bolt. At this point the tensioner pulley, tensioner arm and auto-tensioner are applying force to the timing belt equal to the spring force in the auto-tensioner but the tension on the belt is not likely equal everywhere. So while the pin is still in the auto-tensioner and the tensioner pully bolts tight you check the timing marks to make sure you didn't miss a tooth and have things shift around, then rotate the engine to equalize the belt tension, check that the pin still moves freely and adjust the pre-load as needed, rotating the engine again if you adjusted it and wait 15 mins to see if the pin still moves freely after everything has rested. If it does your done adjusting the belt, if it doesn't readjust the tensioner pulley again and repeat the checking process.

I have a threaded rod for the tensioner arm but after the first time I changed a belt I haven't used it. It's only really useful for unloading the belt and taking if off. The tool for adjusting the tensioner pulley is the one I consider useful.

I hope this helps.

 

[buckz6319]

Keep in mind that this is a forum for 1990-1999 DSM's so the support for 3G Eclipse is going to be spotty. It would help to know which engine your working on, one of the inline 4's or the v6.

I assume you have replaced the auto-tensioner and it's currently has the pin in holding the adjuster rod in the default position. If not take it off, slowly compress it in a vice and reinstall the pin. You won't take it out until the very end.

The 4 cylinder engines are easier than the V6's to get the timing belt on since you have half the cams to line up and on the 3G I think all the engine choices are SOHC so you only have one cam
per head.

The trick is to back the sprocket you are currently putting the belt on a tooth, get the belt on it and turn it forward to it's timing mark. If the belt is loose, back it up, do it again but put the belt on the next tooth and check the marks. You want the belt as tight as it will go between each sprocket so that it can't move when you get to adjusting the tensioner pulley.

The tensioner pulley will be flopping around until the belt is on each sprocket and your adjusting the tensioner to take up any extra belt. You then rotate the tensioner pulley around it's eccentric bolt until it applies pressure to the belt and starts to compress against the auto-tensioner. There is a tool that fits into the two holes in the tensioner pulley that is used to rotate it and hold it so you can tighten the bolt. You rotate the pulley into the belt, tensioning it until the adjuster pin can be moved around freely and then lock down the bolt. At this point the tensioner pulley, tensioner arm and auto-tensioner are applying force to the timing belt equal to the spring force in the auto-tensioner but the tension on the belt is not likely equal everywhere. So while the pin is still in the auto-tensioner and the tensioner pully bolts tight you check the timing marks to make sure you didn't miss a tooth and have things shift around, then rotate the engine to equalize the belt tension, check that the pin still moves freely and adjust the pre-load as needed, rotating the engine again if you adjusted it and wait 15 mins to see if the pin still moves freely after everything has rested. If it does your done adjusting the belt, if it doesn't readjust the tensioner pulley again and repeat the checking process.

I have a threaded rod for the tensioner arm but after the first time I changed a belt I haven't used it. It's only really useful for unloading the belt and taking if off. The tool for adjusting the tensioner pulley is the one I consider useful.

I hope this helps.

Thank so much for the information
I thought I may have the wrong forum for this eclipse
The engine is the 2.4 inline cylinder SOHC
I have searched a lot on this form and found a lot of useful information about this engine..so that is why I registered to join

Thanks again,for the help, because I have the belt on and timing marks set.I was having trouble with setting the eccentric pulley to tension the belt, and you explained that part vary well._

so I don't have to install that special long screw MD998738 to hold the tension arm in place, while I'm trying to tighten the eccentric pulley bolt..that's good
Thanks again

 

[buckz6319]

thanks for all the help!

I finished the project today, and all is good!.The car runs fine,sounds good, and a 50mile test drive went well.

I can now hand the 4G back to my daughter and get my other car back a

 

[steve]

Good work!