Broke a turbo stud, weld another bolt onto it? Water leaking?

[meliketoball]

Broke a turbo stud, weld another bolt onto it? It broke flush with the ex. mani.

I was thinking about welding another bolt onto the broken one then threading it out the way it should come out or if that doesn't work, drill and tap threads into the broken bolt and jb weld another bolt into the broken one to take it out.

Any other ideas?


The reason I was taking off my ex. manifold is because I have a water leak. It seems to travel down from (I don't know what it really is.) a metal heater hose behind the ex. manifold down to one of the turbo water hoses. I popped a water hose for my turbo and overheated. and after, it started leaking water after I changed all water hoses, thermostat, etc.

Do those things crack when it overheats?

 

[synthetek]

Drill it and use an EZ-Out or bolt extractor.

 

[turbosax2]

I have never tried it, but I think drilling into the stud would be extremely hard. Why don't you just take the turbo off so you can easily remove the stud from the turbo?

How is the condition of your metal water lines near the turbo? Sometimes they can rust pretty bad and crack.

 

[19Eclipse90]

I have never tried it, but I think drilling into the stud would be extremely hard. Why don't you just take the turbo off so you can easily remove the stud from the turbo?

How is the condition of your metal water lines near the turbo? Sometimes they can rust pretty bad and crack.

You would think. It can be done. I forget the reason for doing so, but I drilled a hole perpendicular to the stud and stuck a small metal rod through it. This allowed me to use a simple open end wrench to turn the stud out: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/277845-keep-stud.html#post151356773

I would personally suggest taking the turbo off and using a pair of vice grips to turn that guy out. You don't want to 'mess up' and drill your exhaust manifold the wrong way. Plus that makes it easy to replace all hoses behind the turbo that are difficult to get to otherwise.

 

[pj91gsx]

I agree with taking the turbo off to change the stud. also if you have it off you can use vice grips and pb blaster to help. The easiest way to get it out is to use a touch to heat up the stud and unscrew it with vice grips. be careful not to get too close with the torch, you could weld the stud in there if you get too close. good luck

 

[91WhiteGSX80]

Hey whats up... I was wondering do you need water to the Turbo... cause alot of the Turbo's on Ebay dont even have water lines... just oil Lines... So are the MHI Turbos the only one's that use water and Oil ?? ..do I have to get a Turbo with water lines ... or can I get a Ebay TD05H Big 16G with just the oil and cap off the old water lines from my old 14B ?? what you guys think??

 

[turbosax2]

Hey whats up... I was wondering do you need water to the Turbo... cause alot of the Turbo's on Ebay dont even have water lines... just oil Lines... So are the MHI Turbos the only one's that use water and Oil ?? ..do I have to get a Turbo with water lines ... or can I get a Ebay TD05H Big 16G with just the oil and cap off the old water lines from my old 14B ?? what you guys think??

WTF And what does this question have to do with this thread?

If you buy a turbo that is meant to be water cooled, water cool it.
If you buy a turbo that is NOT meant to be water cooled, allow the car to run for a minute or so before turning it off. In this case, you would block off the water lines on the car that used to go to the turbo.

 

[meliketoball]

Jesus christ. I have to go under and pull the turbo out from the bottom? Oi! What about welding another bolt on the top part of the bolt where it snapped off??

I have never tried it, but I think drilling into the stud would be extremely hard. Why don't you just take the turbo off so you can easily remove the stud from the turbo?

How is the condition of your metal water lines near the turbo? Sometimes they can rust pretty bad and crack.

When I overheated, one of my turbo water lines popped and caused me to overheat. I replaced all of the rubber water heater hoses connected for the turbo.

Recently, I got a water leak. It's not like a tidal wave leak, it's more of a 1 drop every 10 seconds @ idle; could be more in load.

Another thing, I've noticed; when I squeezed my upper and lower radiator hoses, I can tell that the leak is coming behind the turbo and right under the exhaust manifold because I can hear a hose (can't tell if its a heater or metal hose because I can't take the exhaust manifold off because I broke one of the studs while trying to search for it. ) sucking in air.

Blown HG? I don't have water in oil or vice versa and my compression numbers are excellent: 1)180 2)175 3) 180 4) 180..for a 7-bolt with 192,xxx miles.

 

[turbosax2]

There are 3 hard water lines in the vicinity of the turbo. Two of them go to the turbo (one comes from the big water pipe under the exhaust manifold and the other comes from the thermostat housing). The other hard line goes from the thermostat housing down to the oil cooler, which is where the oil filter goes. Try to clean up all of the pipes so you can tell where the leak is coming from easier. Or, better yet, take off the turbo to remove the stud and you can easily inspect each line for cracks. If they look really rusty you might as well just replace them.

 

[meliketoball]

There are 3 hard water lines in the vicinity of the turbo. Two of them go to the turbo (one comes from the big water pipe under the exhaust manifold and the other comes from the thermostat housing). The other hard line goes from the thermostat housing down to the oil cooler, which is where the oil filter goes. Try to clean up all of the pipes so you can tell where the leak is coming from easier. Or, better yet, take off the turbo to remove the stud and you can easily inspect each line for cracks. If they look really rusty you might as well just replace them.

I see. I saw that near the BIG water pipe under the exhaust manifold there was a longer skinny hard line that trails down to where the oil filter housing is. If either my skinny or BIG hard water lines are leaking should I JB weld the cracks?

 

[turbosax2]

I see. I saw that near the BIG water pipe under the exhaust manifold there was a longer skinny hard line that trails down to where the oil filter housing is. If either my skinny or BIG hard water lines are leaking should I JB weld the cracks?

If the hard line does have a crack, it is most likely very small since your coolant leaks out very slow. JB weld should be fine to patch up a little hole. Obviously, replacing the line would be better if you able to, especially if it looks like the line is rusted through.

I just took off my brother's 16g with him, and right as we went to put it back on the car we noticed that the coolant feed line was split wide open because it had been rusted through. I ripped the pipe in half with my bare hands - that's how bad it was. Thank God we noticed it before we put it back on the car because the turbo would have had to come right back out to fix it.

 

[meliketoball]

If the hard line does have a crack, it is most likely very small since your coolant leaks out very slow. JB weld should be fine to patch up a little hole. Obviously, replacing the line would be better if you able to, especially if it looks like the line is rusted through.

I just took off my brother's 16g with him, and right as we went to put it back on the car we noticed that the coolant feed line was split wide open because it had been rusted through. I ripped the pipe in half with my bare hands - that's how bad it was. Thank God we noticed it before we put it back on the car because the turbo would have had to come right back out to fix it.

Yeah it sounds that I have a split hard water line somewhere, when I get that broken stud off, I am going to look for that damn split or whatever is leaking the water. Thanks man!

 

[turbosax2]

Oh, and get 4 new OEM bolts for the turbo if you end up taking the turbo off. You can reuse the washers if they look ok. Having 4 bolts instead of 3 bolts and 1 stud makes installing/removing the turbo easier too.

 

[meliketoball]

Oh, and get 4 new OEM bolts for the turbo if you end up taking the turbo off. You can reuse the washers if they look ok. Having 4 bolts instead of 3 bolts and 1 stud makes installing/removing the turbo easier too.

And looks like I'll be calling the Mitsubishi Dealership as well..or ebay. You guys think ebay is good?

eBay Motors: NEW Turbo bolts / eclipse dsm 4G63 T25 T28 14B 16G (item 270168712909 end time Jan-19-08 11:14:36 PST)

 

[romeen]

Oh, and get 4 new OEM bolts for the turbo if you end up taking the turbo off. You can reuse the washers if they look ok. Having 4 bolts instead of 3 bolts and 1 stud makes installing/removing the turbo easier too.[/QUOTE]

Agreed.

If you do take the turbo off you can also consider taking it to a machine shop for removal of bolt. It will probably cost about $20 but can save a lot of hassle. Those bolts are very hard making drilling them difficult.

When reinstalling I highly recommend using high heat COPPER based anti-sieze and all fasteners related to exhaust components to avoid future issues like this. The copper based is more expensive and harder to find than the standard anti-sieze but can withstand the higher temps. There is even nickel based anti-sieze for even higher temp resistance.

For the coolant leak, also consider the o-ring where the main water pipe connects to the water pump.

 

[meliketoball]

Oh, and get 4 new OEM bolts for the turbo if you end up taking the turbo off. You can reuse the washers if they look ok. Having 4 bolts instead of 3 bolts and 1 stud makes installing/removing the turbo easier too.[/QUOTE]

Agreed.

If you do take the turbo off you can also consider taking it to a machine shop for removal of bolt. It will probably cost about $20 but can save a lot of hassle. Those bolts are very hard making drilling them difficult.

When reinstalling I highly recommend using high heat COPPER based anti-sieze and all fasteners related to exhaust components to avoid future issues like this. The copper based is more expensive and harder to find than the standard anti-seize but can withstand the higher temps. There is even nickel based anti-seize for even higher temp resistance.

For the coolant leak, also consider the o-ring where the main water pipe connects to the water pump.

The main water pipe = what me and turbosax2 call the "big hard water pipe"? The o-ring could of possibly burned up due to overheating huh? Just trail the the Big hard water pipe down to the belt side of the motor right?

Whenever I look at the big hard water pipe, it looks likes its made into the cylinderhead; is that true or is it bolted on and sealed?

 

[vernvision]

I have bought and sold a lot on Ebay and you can get great deals and screwed so check out the person you are buying from out by their feedback.
I would agree with those who said to pull the turbo and manifold. That way you can fix the stuff right and see what damage is done to the water pipe. That fitting gets cross threaded easily by someone who doesn't know better. I end up having a custom hose made because of that. JB weld works great but if you don't get everything just right it can fail.
You also might have warped your housing if it got that hot and if so it will have to be pulled and machined. I have had the same problem with breaking those studs and they are a bi*** to get out.
I would suggest that you replace the washers especially if you got the housing very hot. I have reused them and if you have any mods like cams the will not keep the bolts tight. Make sure that either way that you install them correctly or the bolts will loosen from expanding and contracting.
If you want to try and pull that stud then I would try getting a cobalt drill bit and a very low geared drill before welding on it. Tap it out and use a good extracter. Heat will definately help but be carefull if you have any cracks on the inside of the exhaust port of the mainfold or turbo. It will make them larger if you heat it at an uneven rate or cool it too fast.
Snap on or MAC make reversable thread extracters that let you put a wrench on them. You can call or check it out on their websites. They get the stuff to you pretty quick if you don't have a driver around.

Anyway, my 2 cents worth hope it works out for you.

 

[turbosax2]

And looks like I'll be calling the Mitsubishi Dealership as well..or ebay. You guys think ebay is good?

eBay Motors: NEW Turbo bolts / eclipse dsm 4G63 T25 T28 14B 16G (item 270168712909 end time Jan-19-08 11:14:36 PST)

I would stick with OEM on these. FFWD sells ARP stainless steel replacement bolts for the turbo, but apparently they're crap. Go figure. OEM wins in this case.

MR187699 (4) - Turbo to manifold bolts - $4.49 each
MR187848 (8) - Turbo to manifold washers - $1.08 each

https://www.mitsubishiparts.com/oe_parts_catalog.html

 

[turbosax2]

The main water pipe = what me and turbosax2 call the "big hard water pipe"? The o-ring could of possibly burned up due to overheating huh? Just trail the the Big hard water pipe down to the belt side of the motor right?

Whenever I look at the big hard water pipe, it looks likes its made into the cylinderhead; is that true or is it bolted on and sealed?

Yes, the main water pipe is what I called the "big hard water pipe". Yes, just trail the water pipe down to the belt side of the motor. At the end is where it connects to the water pump and there is an o-ring there. You won't be able to see the o-ring well unless you take the water pipe out (which by the way is damn near impossible without removing the turbo).

The water pipe is bolted on in 2 places - one is behind the turbo on the front left side of the head. The other is on the left side of the head below the thermostat housing.

See here to get an image of what you're looking for.

 

[meliketoball]

Cool thanks guys. When I get that mother effer off, I am going to look around those areas and where ever that damn air is coming from. Thanks a lot guys. I think first I am going to try to weld another bolt onto the broken one to get it out. I don't think a bolt extractor is going to work because I used a friggin' 20 foot long breaker bar trying to take it off but, ended up snapping it.

Anyway, the turbo bolts are gonna be coming in the mail, hopefully it isn't the o-ring and only a little pinch in the water hard line. Cross you fingers! I'll let you guys know.

 

[meliketoball]

Forget it! My friend with a welder is being a girl. I bought an Easy out extractor set and a drill bit set and I am going to try to pull that mother out with my plug in drill.

Cross your fingers!

I have a question about using the Easy out; do you have to drill the opposite way to get the bit in?

 

[vernvision]

No a regular twist bit is fine the extractor will srew right in an seat itself an then it is leverage and force. Make sure to use the right size bit for the extractor. Oh one more thing I use anti seize compound on all my exhaust stuff and I have not broken a stud since when I had to pull them. Make sure to have the washer facing the correct way or you will be retightening down those bolts every week and won't know why.

 

[91WhiteGSX80]

Hey Turbosax2 ... Thank you for everything... sorry I posted on this thread...

 

[meliketoball]

Ok, drilling into the bolt is pretty hard. Should I keep on doing it? I bought a 10 dollar set of drill bits. I think I should go spend more on a more better high quality because the drill bit wasn't going anywhere.

 

[turbosax2]

Ok, drilling into the bolt is pretty hard. Should I keep on doing it? I bought a 10 dollar set of drill bits. I think I should go spend more on a more better high quality because the drill bit wasn't going anywhere.

The turbo bolts are grade 11. That's tough.

I still say drop the turbo.