If you’re losing brake fluid and you don’t see the leak, it’s most likely your master cylinder leaking into the booster. To verify this, curl a long zip tie and use it as a dip stick and insert it into the brake booster via the vacuum port below in yellow.
To start the job. Remove everything that’s in the way. You’ll want to remove the cruise control to give you extra room if you still have it. It gets in the way when undoing the brake line fittings from the master. Also anything else that’s in the way, ac fuse block and afp regulator if it’s by the booster.
Now you’ll have to order a new or rebuilt master. Oreily has a rebuilt for $54. Part number BHH 11-2465 with a lifetime warranty and it comes with bleeders to bleed the master back into the reservoir.
To remove the master
Unbolt the reservoir and disconnect the connector for the brake light switch.
Next crack the two brake line fittings loose with a 10mm line wrench - in red below - with no fluid coming out yet. I waited until I was ready to remove the master completely before fully undoing the lines. It’s going to get messy so place a rag under the master. Brake fluid will eat your paint alive.
Now unbolt two 12mm nuts that hold the master to the booster above in blue. There are washers for each nut. If you’re removing the booster, remove the hose in yellow above.
You’re ready to remove the master and reservoir together. Undo the two lines and you’re done unless you want to pull the booster.
Install new master and make sure you get the air out of the master before installing the two lines back onto the master.
For those who need to remove the booster, there are 4 12mm nuts in blue below that hold the booster to the fire wall you’ll have to get from under the dash. Yes, on your back with your feet in the air. Use a deep 12 with a swivel on a 6 inch extension. Also remove the cotter pin that holds the pedal to the booster in red below.
You’re done inside and the booster is loose.
Remove the 12mm bolt that holds the return line onto the fire wall or the booster will not come out.
Now you can remove the booster. Lots of maneuvering from here but it’s not that difficult.
Time to drain the fluid from the booster via the vacuum port. I used brake cleaner to slosh around once I got all the brake fluid out. I did this a few times.
Reassembly, bleed and go boosting!!
Hope this helps someone!!
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To start the job. Remove everything that’s in the way. You’ll want to remove the cruise control to give you extra room if you still have it. It gets in the way when undoing the brake line fittings from the master. Also anything else that’s in the way, ac fuse block and afp regulator if it’s by the booster.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now you’ll have to order a new or rebuilt master. Oreily has a rebuilt for $54. Part number BHH 11-2465 with a lifetime warranty and it comes with bleeders to bleed the master back into the reservoir.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
To remove the master
Unbolt the reservoir and disconnect the connector for the brake light switch.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Next crack the two brake line fittings loose with a 10mm line wrench - in red below - with no fluid coming out yet. I waited until I was ready to remove the master completely before fully undoing the lines. It’s going to get messy so place a rag under the master. Brake fluid will eat your paint alive.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now unbolt two 12mm nuts that hold the master to the booster above in blue. There are washers for each nut. If you’re removing the booster, remove the hose in yellow above.
You’re ready to remove the master and reservoir together. Undo the two lines and you’re done unless you want to pull the booster.
Install new master and make sure you get the air out of the master before installing the two lines back onto the master.
For those who need to remove the booster, there are 4 12mm nuts in blue below that hold the booster to the fire wall you’ll have to get from under the dash. Yes, on your back with your feet in the air. Use a deep 12 with a swivel on a 6 inch extension. Also remove the cotter pin that holds the pedal to the booster in red below.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You’re done inside and the booster is loose.
Remove the 12mm bolt that holds the return line onto the fire wall or the booster will not come out.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now you can remove the booster. Lots of maneuvering from here but it’s not that difficult.
Time to drain the fluid from the booster via the vacuum port. I used brake cleaner to slosh around once I got all the brake fluid out. I did this a few times.
Reassembly, bleed and go boosting!!
Hope this helps someone!!
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