BPR7ES spark plugs

[AndrewG]

I changed out my plugs today. The previous plugs were BPR7ES plugs I replaced them with BPR6ES plugs. Any idea why it might have had those plugs in previously?

FYI I have only had the car 4 days now.

Here is pick of the plugs that come out of it.

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[Brembo]

Might even want to look at your ignition timing, if its off from stock and the potential to retard it a little. After all, you are not looking for max power here. There is a documented correlation between ignition timing and HC output..
that is, if you are looking to get crafty

On my 1g all I did to past the snifer was install a cat, tune up and set base ignition timing plus boost leaks. She past after that with 3 inch exhaust but on 2g their is no setting base ignition timing correct me if I am wrong.

 

[AndrewG]

Arent you OBD2? If so in NJ they just check the emisssion monitors to be passed.

They put it on rollers and measure exhaust output. I tried to lower it so it wouldn't go on the rollers and then I can get an exception to do an OBD test but it wasn't low enough so not work on the rollers.

Would running E85 help you think?

The tank is almost empty I think I'm gonna go get some alcohol put it in the tank and take it to pass. I think that should work.

 

[Spades]

Have you looked into the catalytic? They do fail, especially when people ignore the CEL for misfire codes

 

[Mello]

E85 has hydrocarbons just like gasoline. It won't help a rich condition or high HC's from misfires. If your Cat is working & you're not running rich becuase of a tune you should pass emission sniffer tests no problem. Are your cams still stock or aftermarket? Cam overlap makes has a hughes impact on unburnt fuel HC. What is your AFR's at while getting the sniffer test. Also is your motor healthy? Have you done a compression check?

 

[curt-s]

On my 1g all I did to past the snifer was install a cat, tune up and set base ignition timing plus boost leaks. She past after that with 3 inch exhaust but on 2g their is no setting base ignition timing correct me if I am wrong.

I wouldnt bother with base timing, just modify the entire timing table. Easy with spreadsheet software. Every car is different; what worked for you might need additional tweaking for others, even down to tired old ignition coils not providing enough spark power and instead misfires.

 

[Silent_White]

You have dsmlink... if your wideband is wired to the rear or front o2, then upload a log and I will give you a tune that will pass emissions. And you should throw the bpr7es and bpr6es in the trash. Go buy br7es and gap them at .022.... The protruding tip will make your plugs prone to blow-out.

 

[AndrewG]

You have dsmlink... if your wideband is wired to the rear or front o2, then upload a log and I will give you a tune that will pass emissions. And you should throw the bpr7es and bpr6es in the trash. Go buy br7es and gap them at .022.... The protruding tip will make your plugs prone to blow-out.

Here is a log from me driving into work and the test. The front O2 is the wideband

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[boostdawd]

Barely passed the limit huh. A little bit of alcohol should lower those readings some.

 

[AndrewG]

Barely passed the limit huh. A little bit of alcohol should lower those readings some.

That is with a little alcohol. I think with a little more alcohol will help but not sure about if the HC will pass. It's soooo close to passing.

 

[Silent_White]

Under the NBO2 sim tab, your switch over point is set to 2.41, it should be set to 2.49... you are running rich as a result. Before emissions (park right around the corner), change it to 3.00 volts. This should cause you to idle closer to 18:1 afr. Drive around the corner to the emissions facility, get tested, pass with flying colors... then change it back to 2.49 volts.

You're welcome.

 

[AndrewG]

Under the NBO2 sim tab, your switch over point is set to 2.41, it should be set to 2.49... you are running rich as a result. Before emissions (park right around the corner), change it to 3.00 volts. This should cause you to idle closer to 18:1 afr. Drive around the corner to the emissions facility, get tested, pass with flying colors... then change it back to 2.49 volts.

You're welcome.

Running it now. Fingers crossed that does it

 

[Silent_White]

You also need to configure the pin assignments in the top of the ECU Inputs tab. Once you configure the front 02, mdp, and intake temp at the top, click on the save pin assignments. You will then be able to log those values, which will be a huge help.

Most importantly... your speed density map is completely untuned, this needs to change.
You also have idle air clamp enabled, which is unnecessary due to the fact that you are running speed density.

 

[AndrewG]

You also need to configure the pin assignments in the top of the ECU Inputs tab. Once you configure the front 02, mdp, and intake temp at the top, click on the save pin assignments. You will then be able to log those values, which will be a huge help.

Most importantly... your speed density map is completely untuned, this needs to change.
You also have idle air clamp enabled, which is unnecessary due to the fact that you are running speed density.

Not sure how to do all of that. Here is the result from the test after I changed NBO to 3.00. And also I logged it after I left and changed it back to 2.49

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[boostdawd]

Getting close! Just a few more tweaking....

 

[Silent_White]

you need to fix the pin assignments before the log will be useful.

the 3.0 volts lowered your hc gpm and co gpm to passing levels.

your nox gpm is now failing, which means too lean.

In short, 3 volts was too high.. 2.65 would probably be about right

2.41 volts
hc gpm 1.2153
co gpm 18.8544
nox gpm 0.7690

3 volts
hc gpm .7568
co gpm 10.8701
nox gpm 3.2724

 

[Silent_White]

what are your AFR's reading at idle and at rev?

 

[AndrewG]

what are your AFR's reading at idle and at rev?

what are your AFR's reading at idle and at rev?

At idle its around 15;1 and driving it stays around 13:1. How do I get that to show up in dsmlink?

 

[Silent_White]

if you fix the pin assignments, i can modify your sd table.

 

[Silent_White]

under ecu inputs tab on the bottom left of the ecu config. change front o2 from 'factory/none to your wideband. do the same with mdp and intake temp. mdp is your map sensor, and intake temp is likely a gm intake sensor.

 

[AndrewG]

under ecu inputs tab on the bottom left of the ecu config. change front o2 from 'factory/none to your wideband. do the same with mdp and intake temp. mdp is your map sensor, and intake temp is likely a gm intake sensor.

I got wideband one. How would I find out what that other 2 are?

 

[Silent_White]

your mdp is an aem 3.5 bar... make sure to click the save pin assignments button after you set them

 

[Silent_White]

I can do it without the intake temp. the mdp and front o2 are the important ones.

 

[AndrewG]

your mdp is an aem 3.5 bar... make sure to click the save pin assignments button after you set them

I think this is right.

 

[Silent_White]

the aem 3.5 bar should be set for the mdp. the front o2 is for the wideband. Is the wideband an AEM or LC-1?

 

[AndrewG]

the aem 3.5 bar should be set for the mdp. the front o2 is for the wideband. Is the wideband an AEM or LC-1?

Good question I put it up in the air to see what info I could pull off of it.

Here is what I got. I cant find anything online that matches

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