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Bought in Iraq, ready to upgrade when I'm back! My 91 Talon TSI Build Log

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Scuba_Steve

10+ Year Contributor
152
1
May 28, 2009
Colorado Spring, Colorado
Hi everyone,
My name is Steve, and I am glad to be a new member to this board. I don't have a huge amount of automotive experience, and I have never touched a DSM vehicle, so I admit I have quite a lot to learn. Luckily, thanks to message boards such as this one, so much information is easily accessible. I have been reading for weeks now!

I am in the Army stationed at Ft. Hood, TX, although I am currently in Iraq. Some of my other hobbies include family time, video games, guns, scuba diving, and my 120 gallon coral reef aquarium.

So what got me interested in DSM. As of a few weeks ago, I hadn't even heard the term before. I had decided that when I got home from Iraq this deployment, I wanted to have a sports car/project car waiting on me. I had been looking for that perfect buy for the perfect price for a while. My wife told me they were having an auction on post for cars that had been put into storage, but not claimed for years. So I had her get me a list of everything sporty with a manual transmission. The only thing that really stood out were 4 eagle talons. I had remembered an old friend raving about his former AWD talon that he drag raced (street). So after doing some research I found that the TSI AWD was definitely the way for me to go. Only one of those talons met that bill. A 1991 with quite possibly the worst paint job known to man. IMO, I perfect little sleeper to get my hands dirty with. Being an auction, I figured I could get it for a steal! I was shocked when she told me that one of the 100 or so car dealers buying everything in sight paid over $1200 for it. Now this is a car with an unknown history, horrible tires, no radio, and bone stock. Thank god, probably not the best car anyways; now at least, I had my sights set. Back to the searching process...

Only a few weeks later, I had finally found something on Craigslist. It was the exact same car, only better in nearly every way imaginable. Again, thank god I didn't buy the first one! A few days, and $1400 later, that car was sitting in my driveway, waiting for my return!

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So on to the car... After all, the intention of this thread is to be my build log, not only my introduction. As I stated, the car is a 1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD. Now I haven't actually seen many of these features, so I'm going by the description given to me and the observations of my wife who has limited experience with cars. From what I can tell, the car is very far down the upgrade path, near stage 2. First of all, I was told that most of the emissions were bypassed. In Texas, we have vehicle inspections, but it is just visual and a brake test. Next, Autometer boost and AFR gauges in a pillar dual pod. So as far as I know, only wbo2 and maybe egt are needed. The next part leads me to my first very newbieish question.

1. The car has a Megan Racing 3" cat back exhaust. Nothing is said about the cat itself. How is this normally installed onto a stock 2.5" cat?

Regardless I definitely have the intention of replacing the rest of the exhaust with 3" pipe. I was told he was informed by the state inspectors there is a suspected hole in the stock downpipe. They can tell this by the sound it is making, therefore it is not passing inspection.

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Logging and A/F comes next. The car has what appears to be an S-AFC. The only actual text on the face is Apex-i, and for a bit, I thought it was a V-AFC. I was looking at pictures of an S-AFC II (I was told it was second gen), and it didn't look right, then I saw the V-AFC and freaked out a little. :p I'm going to have my wife check the sensor settings to find out for sure. Included was some type of palm pda, although I still haven't gotten specifics on that. I assume that it is fully setup for monitoring.

2. It was advertised as having a "socketable ECU". Someone please fill me in on exactly what that should mean, although I have a pretty good idea.

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Next, I was told the engine was professionally rebuilt about 1000 miles ago, a $1200 job. I am having one problem with that statement now that I can see it better.

3. Shouldn't a few of these parts be cleaner than they are on a newly rebuilt engine?

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I plan on finding a 2g manifold to replace the nasty looking one pictured. The turbo is hard to see in the pictures, but I am told it is a MHI EVO 16G turbo. My wife said she could not find any markings on it to properly identify it.

4. What should I have her look for specifically to help identify it correctly?

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Lastly, the car has Eibach drop springs. I have read this can actually be a bad thing, but hopefully with proper adjustments I can make it good. The seller did inform me of a few problems that would have to be taken care of soon. Front ball joints, tie rod ends, struts, and the right outer half shaft boot.

5. Does the car only have 2 of each of these things, and is there any reason I should also replace the left half shaft boot as well?

So onto my plans for the car immediately after I return. I want the car to be running in the best shape it can be, and me not have any questions on when things were last done.

I. Change fluids
a. Oil
b. Tranny
c. Transfer case
d. Diff
e. Antifreeze
II. Replace belts
a. Timing
b. Balance shaft
c. Others if needed
III. Replace filters
a. Air
b. Fuel
c. Oil
IV. Replace ignition parts
a. Spark plugs
V. Replace steering parts
a. Front tie rod ends
VI. Replace suspension parts
a. Front struts
b. Front ball joints
VII. Replace drivetrain parts
a. Front half shaft boot
VIII. Replace exhaust parts
a. Exhaust manifold
b. Wideband O2 sensor
c. Downpipe
d. Catalytic converter
IX. Replace intake parts
a. Intake pipe

6. Can anyone think of anything I missed, or any parts I missed that is needed for the changes above (that normally wouldn't be included with the part)?

Now this is all done on a very tight budget. I am estimating well under $1000 for all of the above work to be done myself. I realize this seems low, but I am pretty confident I can do it. Now I know there are still other upgrade that the car will need, but I have to start with what I can afford. With all that being said, I am going to wrap this up for now. I look forward to all of your responses!

P.S. As you can see, I have included all my questions in blue and numbered them for easy reference to the answers. I have a feeling Blue will be seen a lot, both in questions and... other things...
 

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hi steve and thanks for serving! i was in mosul/kurdistan/bagdad and turkey for a year 101st Fort Campbell Air Assault! here is the best support i can give you , the cat back exhaust as mine is connected to the base of the o2 housing which is connected to the base of the exhaust manifold. i wouldnt worry about getting a new manifold right now since your on a tight budget and you dont know what your going to run into when you return home and inspect it yourself. if there is a hold in the exhaust maybe it will be repairable?. new engine rebuild they usually, the new parts are on the inside so visually looking at the outside may not say much. with your apexi i really cant help you with that , is it hooked up , does it rev with the engine? o yea on the turbo i an evo big 16g turbo and i have markings on mine like TD05h or something like that. for the struts and tie rods, how is the tread wear on the tires? if your wife was to push down on the rear struts and try to make them bounce, mine were not stiff anymore and bouncy and it caused the camber/toe to wear on the inside of my rear tires. Good luck When you returning? Date Yet?
 
Hi King, thanks for the reply. Right now I have no idea when I will be home yet. It will be a long time though still, probably Jan.

In reference to my question

1. I am a bit unclear with what you are saying about the exhaust. Ive never done exhaust, or suspension/steering work before so this is all new. I thought my exhaust went in this order, with these sizes. Manifold, turbo 2.5, 2.5 o2housing 2.5, 2.5 downpipe 2.5, 2.5 cat 3.0, 3.0 catback? My question was how does the conversion from 2.5 pipe to 3 pipes normally occor at the cat? I will have my wife look at the AFC and the tires, suspension. As far as I know, they have even treadwear, and there are no problems with the rear shocks, only the front struts.

Also I am confused as hell about the whole ball joint situation. Maybe it will make more sense when I actually see it, or when my Haynes manual comes in (which is on order). So I'll make this question number.

7. All I see sold anywhere is lower ball joints. This is why I assumed that was all that is on the car. I thought cars had an upper though as well? How does this work, or am I just not finding the upper? Is this not a required replacement, or is it built into another part? I only see lower control arms as well.
 
+1 for thanks for serving.


I was with you on the automotive experience. About 3 years ago, all I could do was oil changes and changing the brakes. Learn quickly, and rebuilt my engine and tuned the car. I like to say no one was born with a DSM FSM in hand.



1. The car has a Megan Racing 3" cat back exhaust. Nothing is said about the cat itself. How is this normally installed onto a stock 2.5" cat?

The exhaust is after the cat. So it connects to the 2.5” cat, then expands to 3”. My exhaust expands in the flex section of the down pipe. Once you jack up the car and look at the exhaust, you can clearly see the 2.5” and 3” pipes and were it expands.


2. It was advertised as having a "socketable ECU". Someone please fill me in on exactly what that should mean, although I have a pretty good idea.

This is good if you are planning on getting DSM Link (now ECM Link). DSM Link sockets a new eeporm on the ECU with there code. Pretty much a stand alone engine management.

ECMTuning, Inc.

3. Shouldn't a few of these parts be cleaner than they are on a newly rebuilt engine?

What was rebuilt, the bottom end?

4. What should I have her look for specifically to help identify it correctly?

You will probably have to take the intake pipe off, and look for the markings. Also get a pic of the housing and fins. The fins on a 14b look all the same while the 16g have different angles for every other fin.

5. Does the car only have 2 of each of these things, and is there any reason I should also replace the left half shaft boot as well?

Not to great at suspension myself. Here is some useful threads.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...14096-replacing-torn-ball-joint-boots-2g.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...me-quick-help-upper-ball-joint-strippage.html


I. Change fluids
a. Oil
b. Tranny
c. Transfer case
d. Diff
e. Antifreeze

Looks good.

II. Replace belts
a. Timing
b. Balance shaft
c. Others if needed

Look at the alt and a/c belts too.

III. Replace filters
a. Air
b. Fuel
c. Oil

Looks good.

IV. Replace ignition parts
a. Spark plugs

Spark plug wires look good from the pic.

V. Replace steering parts
a. Front tie rod ends
VI. Replace suspension parts
a. Front struts
b. Front ball joints
VII. Replace drivetrain parts
a. Front half shaft boot

Looks good.

VIII. Replace exhaust parts
a. Exhaust manifold

If the one you have is not cracked or leaking, then you should just keep it.

b. Wideband O2 sensor

It looks like you do not have a wideband from the post. Do you have a wideband gauge? If it is a wideband, then you want to move the wideband O2 sensor from the O2 housing. The wideband O2 sensor should be at least 18” away from the turbo. AEM suggest 36” away from the turbo.

c. Downpipe

Looks good, since you said it had a hole.

d. Catalytic converter
IX. Replace intake parts
a. Intake pipe


Is there anything wrong with the cat or intake pipe? If not you should keep them unless you are doing performance upgrades.


Darren
6Bolt
 
6bolt, thank you for the reply. I for one truely hate when people tell me that I should stay away with limited automotive experience. We all have to learn somewhere!. As long as I have the basic concepts of assembly down, a trusty Haynes manual, and heavy forum support I believe I should be able to tackle most anything. Maybe not fabrication without specific training (of which I have some), but basic, take this off, put this on stuff.

1. I was under the assumption that 3" catbacks were made to connect to 3" cats. So in order to upgrade to all 3" exhaust, I will need to have a bit of cutting and welding done? I guess I will truel see when I get a good underside view!

Wideband o2... No the car does not have this. To my knowledge, I must port out the old o2 housing for better flow, cap off the o2 bung, then add a new bung for the wbo2. I am still deciding on which system I will go with, but it is looking like a LC1, or a JAW DIY kit.

The Intake and Cat would both be for performance reasons. I figure if Im getting a new downpipe, might as well go 3". If I have a 3" dp and a 3" catback, Might as well finish it off with a matching cat! For intake I may just replace the filter with a k&n or a fram airhog.
 
good point, I forget about silly inspections being that I dont got em up here. you could always build a cat housing around a 3 pipe, but I guess unless you have some custom fab skills it might be more trouble than its worth
 
I have thought about that. From what I have read, it is not the easiest thing to do, and actually make look convincing. I have also heard about hollowing one out... Im really undecided. Now if I had one come across for cheap already done, I would jump on it in a heartbeat (assuming I wasn't broke that is :p)
 
eh, its not so much hard as it is about having the right equipment to do it. and I hear ya on being broke, story of my life haha
 
6bolt, thank you for the reply. I for one truely hate when people tell me that I should stay away with limited automotive experience. We all have to learn somewhere!. As long as I have the basic concepts of assembly down, a trusty Haynes manual, and heavy forum support I believe I should be able to tackle most anything. Maybe not fabrication without specific training (of which I have some), but basic, take this off, put this on stuff.

I fully agree with you. When I started building my DSM, I got a lot of crap from my friends about how I was going to fail or screw things up. Now with the engine running, they don't say a word about the car. It is pretty funny. Their negative comments just motivated me to build the car. Also this site was a great resource.

Also, you might want to get a copy of the factory service manual (FSM) too.

1. I was under the assumption that 3" catbacks were made to connect to 3" cats. So in order to upgrade to all 3" exhaust, I will need to have a bit of cutting and welding done? I guess I will truel see when I get a good underside view!

The cat back exhaust should expand after the cat. There a couple of ways, usually an 2.5” to 3” adapter is used. Check out the last pic in the link below. You should see the adapter.
STMDSM - 95-99 DSM AWD Cat-Back Exhaust - Megan Racing

Wideband o2... No the car does not have this. To my knowledge, I must port out the old o2 housing for better flow, cap off the o2 bung, then add a new bung for the wbo2. I am still deciding on which system I will go with, but it is looking like a LC1, or a JAW DIY kit.

Sorry, I thought you said you had a WB O2 in the first post. It was pretty long, and I got confused. Sounds like a good plan.

The Intake and Cat would both be for performance reasons. I figure if Im getting a new downpipe, might as well go 3". If I have a 3" dp and a 3" catback, Might as well finish it off with a matching cat! For intake I may just replace the filter with a k&n or a fram airhog.

There are a lot of 2.5” to 3” down pipes. Then you can get a high flow 3” cat. If a bolt on adapter is used for the 2.5” to 3” expansion, you can toss the adapter, and have a turbo back exhaust.
 
I can't believe you picked that up for so cheap, check out this website, it has pretty much everything you need to know in it.

VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions

Also I would do a compression test first thing, just to see if it really was rebuilt or not. Also you need to get an upper timing belt cover, would hate for a wire or rock to find it's way in there. Did the previous owner say anything about the car having bigger injectors? Because people usually don't buy an afc unless they have bigger injectors.
 
Thanks for the website and advice HabitatGuy,
I didn't even realise I was missing a cover there! Ill be sure to add that. I had planned on doing a compression test, and boost leak test almost immediately. I got word from the seller that he just replaced the timing belt, so thats one thing I can skip. Ill still definately check the timing though. As far as he knows the injectors are stock. I think he added the AFC because of the 16g. I am definately in the market for a nice set of used injectors, around 650cc, but its not an absolute top priority. If I get those, I will definately be changing the fuel pump as well.
Ill now ask question #

7. Does anyone have an opinion on either a JAW wb02 setup, or a punishment racing 3" downpipe? These both seem like good budget solutions, but I am a bit worried on how easily an o2 bung can be welded onto the ss dp.
 
7. Does anyone have an opinion on either a JAW wb02 setup, or a punishment racing 3" downpipe? These both seem like good budget solutions, but I am a bit worried on how easily an o2 bung can be welded onto the ss dp.

I don't know anything about the wideband, but the downpipe will be just fine, although I tried to drill a hole in my SS downpipe and got nowhere using good bits and lots of muscle for a long time.
 
Thanks for the good info, I emailed Punishment to see if they can just weld it on for me.

8. Where is the best place normally? I have heard 18" from the turbo, 36", or in the zone that gets to 400 deg which is where wbo2 sensors operate most efficiently.
 
Just made a few purchases! I should be going on R&R sometime in August and I would like to get the car to pass emissions inspection while I'm home.

First is a 3" downpipe.

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9. Where can I get, or what can I use to plug the O2 sensor bung until I get my wideband?

Next is a 3" Magnaflow 53009. I bought this in a hurry as my 8% off coupon on Ebay was about to expire in a few hours. It has 3" slip fittings. I paid $53 shipped btw after the coupon saving!

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10. Does anyone see any fitment issues?

After I see if it will fit using my plan, I plan on cutting the first one inch or so off the flange end of my catback. I will have the cat welded directly to the catback. I will then have an extention pipe and the flange/pipe I cut from the catback welded to the other side of the cat. This will allow me to bolt it to my downpipe. No flanges will need to be bought, only 1 3" 2 bolt gasket, and 1 2.5" 2 bolt gasket.

11. Does this sound like a doable plan, or would it be easier to use some type of clamps as I do not weld myself? Ballpark, what can I expect to pay to have the cut and welds made? I would bring it in with dp installed, and cat removed.
 

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i tried reading through, but wheres the blow off valve? i see the recirc pipe, but its just open..
if your still running mostly stock electronics, that will cause a lot of drive ability issues. running lean and what not.

btw ft hood area is nice, if not really hot. i lived in that area for a couple years.
 
wheres the blow off valve? i see the recirc pipe, but its just open..

I'm guessing the recirc pipe is the ribbed looking pipe? The return hose?
I see a work clamp attached to the end of this, I assume it is connected to a bov? I also see what looks like a flange that would fit the bov sticking out from behind the uicp, but I can't tell if anything is bolted to it or not... Anyone else see anything? I'm 3000 miles away from the car, so I'm going off the same pic as everyone else. :p
 
9. Where can I get, or what can I use to plug the O2 sensor bung until I get my wideband?

I would call a local muffler shop for a O2 plug. Should be able to pick one up for about $5.

I'm guessing the recirc pipe is the ribbed looking pipe? The return hose?
I see a work clamp attached to the end of this, I assume it is connected to a bov? I also see what looks like a flange that would fit the bov sticking out from behind the uicp, but I can't tell if anything is bolted to it or not... Anyone else see anything? I'm 3000 miles away from the car, so I'm going off the same pic as everyone else. :p

Looks like you have 1G bypass valve, from the 4th pic of the original post. It is hard to tell, and might be something else, but I can see the triangle flanges in the pic.

You are correct, with the rubber ribbed hose going from the UICP to the intake pipe. That is the recirculation pipe.
 
No it's there. If you look where the recirc hose goes, right on top of the metal peice you will see the very corner of the 1g BOV. I am excited to see how this goes as well. SSgt in the Air Force right here! :p
 
I'm glad that there are so many more in the military here, makes me feel that much more at home!

Here is a closer picture.

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What is the nipple attached to the relay box right above the uicp?
 

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