mbyoung424
15+ Year Contributor
- 148
- 6
- Jul 19, 2007
-
Alexandria,
Virginia
I was home on leave in May and my car drove fine up until the last day. When I went to drive it back into the garage it stalled. After about 10 minutes it started back up and I drove it in before heading to the airport. Today I got an email from my Dad saying he took it out to drive and it continually stalled on him. It would start after about 5 minutes, but continued stalling. Right now the only mod is a fully built 2.3L engine and the TRE Transmission. I've never had any issues like this before with the car. These are the symptoms that he sent me:
-It doesn't shut off instantly, i.e. it starts cutting out and running very roughly. The motion of the car is jerky.
-There was a loud clicking noise. It continued until the engine wasn't running. It clicks about two times a second. It continues even if the clutch is in.
-The ambient temperature was not hot. It was about 8:45 in the morning.
-It usually will start again after sitting for about 5 minutes.
-When it starts, the engine runs very well. It is not running roughly.
-One time, as it was cutting out, I kept the accelerator pedal pushed all the way down. It was continuing to slow down and was running very rough. Then it suddenly started running okay and accelerated very quickly for about 10 seconds and then started stalling again.
-Do you know where the fuel filter is located? It could possibly be causing the problem, but I can't explain the clicking noise.
-The engine was not over-heating.
I told him where the fuel filter is so he'll check that. The car was driven very rarely for the first year that I was gone, but when I came home on leave I ran the tank nearly empty before filling up. I did some searches and came up with these possible issues.
Could be the CAS: I'm trying to get him my Haynes manual and explain how to read the codes to see if this is the issue.
O2 sensor causes clicking: I read this, but I have no idea where the clicking was coming from. I also heard the ECU could cause the clicking sound. I'm asking him if he can decribe where the sound was coming from.
ECU (Check Capacitors for leaking): This is a '92 so the ECU is old enough to be bad. He was an Electrical Engineer so he'll have no issues checking the capacitors.
Throttle Position Sensor: I got this is a few articles, but don't know how it could be causing the issue.
Idle Speed Sensor: I read this was an issue with the RPM causing it to stall. Doesn't sound like the problem to me, but I'm not there so I thought I'd mention it.
Clean MAF: I read this could cause stalling, but it was in regards to stalling when getting on the gas. That doesn't sound like the issue either.
Vacuum leak: Just another possibility.
I have an AEM EMS awaiting install so I don't want to replace an ECU just so he can drive once every other week. Also just bought a Wideband O2 sensor so I don't want to have to replace the stock one for the same reason as stated above. When I get back home I was going to install everything else, but I don't want to get there with these issues and have to work through all of that along with the install and then not know if the car won't run because of a bad install or because of an issue prior to the install. I'm leaning more towards the ECU or CAS, but I figured I'd try getting some opinions first. I'll post more info as my Dad digs into this.
I know it's a stretch to ask for help to convey to another person who isn't familiar with DSMs but I have no other choice and don't really want to have him take it to a Dealer and have them try replacing everything without me being there to raise the BS flag. All your help is appreciated.
Take it easy
-It doesn't shut off instantly, i.e. it starts cutting out and running very roughly. The motion of the car is jerky.
-There was a loud clicking noise. It continued until the engine wasn't running. It clicks about two times a second. It continues even if the clutch is in.
-The ambient temperature was not hot. It was about 8:45 in the morning.
-It usually will start again after sitting for about 5 minutes.
-When it starts, the engine runs very well. It is not running roughly.
-One time, as it was cutting out, I kept the accelerator pedal pushed all the way down. It was continuing to slow down and was running very rough. Then it suddenly started running okay and accelerated very quickly for about 10 seconds and then started stalling again.
-Do you know where the fuel filter is located? It could possibly be causing the problem, but I can't explain the clicking noise.
-The engine was not over-heating.
I told him where the fuel filter is so he'll check that. The car was driven very rarely for the first year that I was gone, but when I came home on leave I ran the tank nearly empty before filling up. I did some searches and came up with these possible issues.
Could be the CAS: I'm trying to get him my Haynes manual and explain how to read the codes to see if this is the issue.
O2 sensor causes clicking: I read this, but I have no idea where the clicking was coming from. I also heard the ECU could cause the clicking sound. I'm asking him if he can decribe where the sound was coming from.
ECU (Check Capacitors for leaking): This is a '92 so the ECU is old enough to be bad. He was an Electrical Engineer so he'll have no issues checking the capacitors.
Throttle Position Sensor: I got this is a few articles, but don't know how it could be causing the issue.
Idle Speed Sensor: I read this was an issue with the RPM causing it to stall. Doesn't sound like the problem to me, but I'm not there so I thought I'd mention it.
Clean MAF: I read this could cause stalling, but it was in regards to stalling when getting on the gas. That doesn't sound like the issue either.
Vacuum leak: Just another possibility.
I have an AEM EMS awaiting install so I don't want to replace an ECU just so he can drive once every other week. Also just bought a Wideband O2 sensor so I don't want to have to replace the stock one for the same reason as stated above. When I get back home I was going to install everything else, but I don't want to get there with these issues and have to work through all of that along with the install and then not know if the car won't run because of a bad install or because of an issue prior to the install. I'm leaning more towards the ECU or CAS, but I figured I'd try getting some opinions first. I'll post more info as my Dad digs into this.
I know it's a stretch to ask for help to convey to another person who isn't familiar with DSMs but I have no other choice and don't really want to have him take it to a Dealer and have them try replacing everything without me being there to raise the BS flag. All your help is appreciated.
Take it easy