bottom end knock from built engine. please help.

[AWD~SLEEPER]

this is the second time i pulled the engine for the same problem. i had my engine built by a machine shop. eagle rods, ross pistons, clevvet barings, new crank. the first time they couldnt figure why the barings wore so quick, barrings were eaten up bad. started it let it run and from the first start it knocked, never went away. all timing markes line up so timing is right. oil press was good. now second rebuild and it is doing the same. any sugestions would help. ive been trying for a year now to get this car going so please help. thanks dave. also could your cam angle sensor have someting to do with bottom end knock.

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

Drop your "machine shop" and get one that knows how to use plastigauge.

 

[ACKERSON]

First of all you need to go to the machine shop and get all of your money back and then find another machine shop. That's bs that they screwed up 2 times. You have a lot of money invested in that engine. I don't see how the cam angle sensor could be related to bottom end knock. I would definitely go to the machine shop and talk to them.

 

[AWD~SLEEPER]

i was only asking if the cam angle sensor by adjusting it would it make it knock. they said that they plastigauge it both times. and they have no idea what it could be. thanks for the help.

 

[scottsee]

yea, the camangle sencor might, but that wouln't have anything to do with you tearing up your crank bearings. did you ever ask them to ballance and bluprint the crank/rods/pistons/and flywheel???

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

How many miles you have on these rebulds before they went south>?

 

[AWD~SLEEPER]

the engine was balanced and blue printed. first build 70 miles, second 10 miles. both times i let it idle for 30 min the make sure the barings were lubed.

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

the engine was balanced and blue printed. first build 70 miles, second 10 miles. both times i let it idle for 30 min the make sure the barings were lubed.

Then you need to get your money back and find a machine shop that knows how to use plastigauge. They don't know how.

 

[1fast97gsx]

yea I agree. Get your money back ... buy a new crank or machine yours ( I'd just buy a new one ) ... get new gaskets and seals and bearings and assemble it yourself. That way you know it'll be done right.

 

[TSIfreek]

What were your bearing clearances set at?? Was the crank machined? Was the block LINE honed?

 

[AWD~SLEEPER]

first time it was a new crank. second it was machined. i dont no what the clearance was.

 

[trbotaln]

I would never let anyone else rebuild my motor. You cannot trust anybody. Do you know if they torque plate honed it. My guess is they probably didn't and kept things a little loose so that it will no lock up. Usually if a motor with forged pistons is not warmed up you will hear some piston slap but it goes away after it is warmed up. If the noise doesn't go away after the motor reaches operating temperature then something may be out of factory spec.l

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

I would never let anyone else rebuild my motor. You cannot trust anybody. Do you know if they torque plate honed it. My guess is they probably didn't and kept things a little loose so that it will no lock up. Usually if a motor with forged pistons is not warmed up you will hear some piston slap but it goes away after it is warmed up. If the noise doesn't go away after the motor reaches operating temperature then something may be out of factory spec.l

There is no reason to use a torque plate besides a bunch of theory. I've never used a torque plate on a motor of mine, the clearances are at spec with what Wiseco recommends, no issues.

 

[92redman]

Please tell me that they checked the crank for bend. Also they better have checked the main saddles with a straight-edge and feeler gauge. Bent rods could cause the bearings to wear on one side, but you have eagles so probably not likely.
Which bearings were damaged? Also if you could provide detailed pics of the bearing failure, it could help in determining what could have caused premature failure.

 

[myblack98gst]

did you use the same block for botth times...

I had much the same problem, it KEPT eating bearings usually #3 and even ate the thrust bearing so it walked on me.. I did 2 builds before I got a new block and machine shop..

I think what the problem is was it has a oil passage blocked or clogged inside the block that kept it from getting proper oiling to the bearings.

May also want to check into getting new oil squiters.. there have been theory of those sticking open and reducing oil flow to the bearings too

 

[AWD~SLEEPER]

its not the rods. it is the main barings that is ate up. here is a pic that i took from the first build parts of the main baring that wsa in my oil pan. sorry i didnt get pics of the baring.

 

[AWD~SLEEPER]

when i pulled the baring the main baring in between number two and three was the one that was ate up. i never checked the others. checked all rod barings and they were fine. and yes it was the same block both times.

 

[92redman]

From the looks of that, it had to more than just "a little tight" on the clearances. Something MAJOR was wrong. Not even a spun bearing would normally do that. Wish I could see what the current bearings look like, it's hard to tell what happened to the bearing from just a few pieces, ya know?

Edit: if that was your thrust bearing, it possibly could have spun and sheared off part of the thrust surface(the little metal pieces in your hand). If it did spin, you can probably bet that your oiling passage was blocked and it never got oil pressure to that bearing.

 

[AWD~SLEEPER]

ill go tomorrow to see if the machine shop has the baring ill try to get pics. thanks for all the imput.

 

[AWD~SLEEPER]

what would make it spin. it started to knock as soon as i started it up.

 

[akdsm]

ok........

this is going to sound really stupied, but did you ever have your valve cover painted?

i had to replace my damn engine 3 times because of the bearings being torn up in the first 100 miles...... the machine shop always asked if it was ever around sand.......i thought it was sumthin me and my dad did wrong everytime, safe to say lots a fights because of that....anyway it ended up being that the powder coated valve cover was sand blasted and the plate was put back in the back and was never cleaned out....when we took out the plate, sand poured out and made a nice little pile.........needless to say we found the problem.

 

[AWD~SLEEPER]

yes my valve cover was powder coated. i sand blasted it my self, i covered the bottom and then blasted it. bottom of valve cover is clean.

 

[ArticNemesis]

as already stated, try and get pics of the failed bearing... something was out of spec, and can usually be pretty much determined by the wear on the bearings... I hope the machine shop is footing the bills for these "builds" that weren't built correctly.?

 

[Logue]

uhh my valve cover was just powdercoated flat textured black.... my built 6 bolt motor is fully assembled and ready for the first start tomm. What plate are you guys talking about? where exactly should i look? Cause i did notice some overspray on the buttom of my cover??

 

[AWD~SLEEPER]

machine shop has not charged me anything. cause it is there falt.
on the valve cover bottom side. there is a plate that is rivited on. make sure there is no paint at all on the bottom side. if so there will be paint in your oil = not good.