Boring my block

[almst 92 tsi]

I hears and read that some people have engines that are bigger than 2.0 in their talons/eclipses? What engins/blocks/bores maybe are they using?? What engines will fit in the 1g eclipse? Has anyone ever tried to put in the v6 from the newer models. I kinda want the 2.4 block it it a direct bolt in and does the head fit??

 

[#1-1995GS-T]

I hears and read that some people have engines that are bigger than 2.0 in their talons/eclipses? What engins/blocks/bores maybe are they using?? What engines will fit in the 1g eclipse? Has anyone ever tried to put in the v6 from the newer models. I kinda want the 2.4 block it it a direct bolt in and does the head fit??

They make a stroker kit which come in 2.3 and 2.4 i believe. and the bklock you have is what i would stick with. The head has bigger ports than the 2g. And the v6 is probably way to big and you would need custom motor mounts.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

You can build a 2.3L stroked motor by utilizing the 2.4l 4g64 crank in the 4g63 block, stock length 4g63 rods with forged stroker pistons.

To get a 2.4L you can build a 2.4L 4g64 short block and put a 4g63 head on it.

There is also a thing called the 2.1L destroker. You'll have to search about that one though.

 

[TunaTalon]

There is little to be gained from just over boring the 4G63. To get any significant increase in displacement requires a longer stroke. Over the limited range of possible bore and stroke sizes for the 4G63 the percentage of power increase will be proportional to the increase in displacement.

See the thread at http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/str...acement-various-combinations-bore-stroke.html for a table of displacements for different piston sizes and crank stroke.

 

[GSeX02]

2.3 stroker if i remember seeing correctly. Do a search a bunch have done it !

 

[almst 92 tsi]

so do you guys think that it would be beneficial to bore the block if i am already tearing it down anyway to rebuild it? wouldnt boring change the compression? Doesent lowercompression mean i can put more boost?? Another question? How much boost do u think that i can run through a sm 16g? Also how much boost can the stock head hold before i should re-spring it?

 

[tkelly27]

You really only need or want an overbore if your cylinder walls are no good. If you have a N/T, you'll want to switch to turbo style pistons. 1G for lower comp, 2G for a higher comp. Both are equally as strong. Not sure on the rods. Compression... it really depends on your ability to tune and what fuel you will be using. There are a lot of theories on it, but if you aren't good at tuning you'll most likely want low compression to keep yourself from breaking things.

S16g can make 20-25psi, give or take. How much you can run safely depends on your tune and supporting mods. With a NT fuel system, 0-10psi, stock turbo fuel system 10-16, upgraded fuel system, IC, etc. you can leave the wastegate unplugged if you want.

Stock springs can handle almost any boost you can think of before they lift off the seats. Aftermarket cams benefit greatly from stiffer springs, stock cams may or may not see any beenefit depending on how high you are winding the engine up.

 

[almst 92 tsi]

You really only need or want an overbore if your cylinder walls are no good. If you have a N/T, you'll want to switch to turbo style pistons. 1G for lower comp, 2G for a higher comp. Both are equally as strong. Not sure on the rods. Compression... it really depends on your ability to tune and what fuel you will be using. There are a lot of theories on it, but if you aren't good at tuning you'll most likely want low compression to keep yourself from breaking things.

S16g can make 20-25psi, give or take. How much you can run safely depends on your tune and supporting mods. With a NT fuel system, 0-10psi, stock turbo fuel system 10-16, upgraded fuel system, IC, etc. you can leave the wastegate unplugged if you want.

Stock springs can handle almost any boost you can think of before they lift off the seats. Aftermarket cams benefit greatly from stiffer springs, stock cams may or may not see any beenefit depending on how high you are winding the engine up.

Thanks that was really helpful. Appreciate it

 

[1_2befast]

I think you already got the info you wanted, but I would just stick with a 2.0 built just like the factory did it if you are planning on running a 16g at modest levels. I would say 20-22psi would be the most boost you would want to run on a good tune.

 

[almst 92 tsi]

Thanks again everybody

 

[almst 92 tsi]

If i am going to run a small 16g what kind of management system ashould i run

 

[BkzProblem]

Ok... 1st thing, stick with the 2.0 block... your car if fwd and anything other than the 2.0 is going to give you a lot of power in the low rpm ranges which is NOT what you want... YOU WILL SPIN TIRES ALL DAY LONG!!!!!! Lol.... in your fwd car you would want good low end and better middle and upper end power.... off the line power is better for the awd cars that can put the power to the floor... 2.3 and 2.4 strokers sounds nice in power but it doesn't make sense if you can't put it down.... you will have to drive around on drag/radials everyday to drive it comfortably... that can get expensive.... If you are not planning to make a lot of power then 1g rods, 2g pistons, balance shaft elim, 16 or 20 g turbo... slightly ported n polished head, 2g exhaust mani, 3 in turbo back, fmic, bigger injectors (maybe) and a maft-pro or super afc for tuning.... no need to go all out... this exact setup I have mentioned has ran 13's all day... for a beginner build, this is all you need... no need for boring and stroking and going crazy.... hope this helps.....

 

[tkelly27]

engine management also depends on how far you want to push your setup. In the dark ages, people used to (and still do) get away with hacking their MAF's and putting potentiometers on their sensors to confuse the ECU into giving them more fuel. It's unreliable at best, but on a shoestring budget it has made some very fast cars.

Then you start moving up in the chain, the MAFT, AFC, Chip, DSMlink/tunerpro/DSMap, all the way up to full standalone. Some of these are not mutually exclusive, all of them will show up in a search. Most people will tell you to get DSMlink because it's easy. However, the price of the link, an eprom ECU, and getting it socketed almost rivals the cost of a used stand alone. I'd encourage you to see how the current (and future) versions of link really work and compare them to editing your own binaries or DSMap. The slider thing in V2 is super goofy if you ask me. V3 has load based tuning, but so does editing binaries with tunerpro and DSMap.

They all have their pro's and cons, all can handle a s16g. How far do you want to push it is the question. That turbo can put you into the 11's/low 12's, but it's probably not going to do it without a lot of tuning. It can also put you into the 13's without a significant amount of effort or tuning.

 

[1_2befast]

I would suggest using an SAFC and maybe some Evo 560 injectors or 650 if you plan on using all the air a s16g can push. You will also need a logger so you know what is going on when you are tuning. The SAFC and injectors can be had for about $300 used. I don't know the pricing on loggers because I went straight to DSMLink.

 

[almst 92 tsi]

Now if i go with th balance shaft eliminator and the 2g pistons do i have the get the crank balanced?

 

[BkzProblem]

There are a lot of people that have both and don't have their engines / cranks rebalanced but I say for "security" reasons, you should... its not 100% necesary but its worth your money if you want to keep a strong lasting motor... buscher also recomends this after a balance shaft elim job...