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blew my magnus manifold in 2 pieces... why??

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Everyone needs to settle down and act like adults if this thread is to stay open. Right or wrong, there is no need to jump down anyone's throat.

I agree with Jim, there are obviously other factors in play here besides the quality of the welds though to be fair, there seems to be more failures associated with the Magnus unit compared with a compapally priced competitor, the fact that new Magnus intakes now comes with a brace further proves that this is a known issue though I have never seen a case where Marco refuses to fix them free of charge.
 
i talked to marco today and he said for me to ship it back to him and they would fix it. if it couldnt be fixed then he would send me a new one free of charge. s ill let everyone know what happens..... anyone know where i should start looking for why the backfire happened??
 
i did read all the posts and i seen where acouple people said to check the timing and fuel.. what i was asking for is some more peoples input to what the cause might be instead of everyone bashing on the magnus intake manifold


staticbrainwash said:
Uh, a lot of people said where to start looking for signs of damage and causes. Just re read the thread and find out man. It's all here.
 
I had my Magnus intake for 3 weeks on the car and the welds let go on #4 runner(small crack), turned out that the flange was not perfectly straight and it caused stress and it cracked. Had the flange plained down and it works good ..
 
paul s said:
I had my Magnus intake for 3 weeks on the car and the welds let go on #4 runner(small crack), turned out that the flange was not perfectly straight and it caused stress and it cracked. Had the flange plained down and it works good ..


completely off topic to the thread at hand
 
BluemeanieTSi said:
completely off topic to the thread at hand


Exactly. Guys read the title of the thread. He wants to know what could have caused this to happen, if you don't have any insight as to how it could have happened, DON"T POST.
 
I believe this was brought up, but there are a few factors that can cause that massive of a backfire.
1) Nitrous
2) Alternative fuel pooling (aka meth injection)
3) Improper timing.

Since you do not have aux fuel injection and do not have nitrous, I would pay serious attention to your ignition timing. How is the tune on the vehicle? I would imagine you had a physical timing issue (mis-install of the maf-t) or a huge rich issue to where you are igniting fuel as the intake valves are open, again a timing issue. In a nut shell..start with the maf-t wiring. I noticed that is the only thing listed on your brief mods list, anything else for ignition or fuel control installed on the vehicle?
How do the spark plugs look?
I would check the compressor on the turbo and the compression of the motor before attempting to run the vehicle again.
The fact that the intake manifold blew apart is null. There is a serious issue as to WHY it came apart, not the fact that it came apart.
 
ISUJakey said:
Call Marco first.

Jakey, I assumed that would have been the first step before even posting on here. Good point though.
 
the reason i posted it on here is to see if someone could helpme to start looking in the right place for the problem of why this happened.. this did not happen because of the manifold it happened because something went wrong with my car and there was a explosion in the intake..... but if you read all my posts i did call marco and he is fixing it or giving me a new one



lasertim said:
Jakey, I assumed that would have been the first step before even posting on here. Good point though.
 
Thomas91169 said:
THANK YOU!! finally some knowledge in here. :rocks:


Explain that to the next Magnus Manifold that comes apart..........:thumb:

Like I have said in the other post I have made this is not the 1st magnus Intake manifold to come apart so whats the excuse for those that have ....?

Are you going to say backfire , stress , uneven flanges bottom line is Magnus work has gone down hill in the past year or so and once again Welds have alot to do with it and it seems like they rushed on getting these manifolds out to their customers . There have been other thing's in the past not dealing with SMIM I know you guy's remember ADFX and how their FMIC end tanks where blowing off becuase of poor work or was something else?
 
DSMJim said:
Have any of you guys ever worked on a fast car before?

Man I have been a memeber of this site sense 2002 just as you and trust me im not talking out of my ass ........not so much for what I can say for some of the other's that are posting but some are trying to give opinon's and maybe trying to learn a thing or 2 so that it will help them in the future for if they themselves come across a simular problem .

But I have been there and done alot of work on fast cars and still doing it till this day, and have owned my share of fast car's and still do :thumb:
 
GSTeclipse said:
Explain that to the next Magnus Manifold that comes apart..........:thumb:

Like I have said in the other post I have made this is not the 1st magnus Intake manifold to come apart so whats the excuse for those that have ....?

Are you going to say backfire , stress , uneven flanges bottom line is Magnus work has gone down hill in the past year or so and once again Welds have alot to do with it and it seems like they rushed on getting these manifolds out to their customers . There have been other thing's in the past not dealing with SMIM I know you guy's remember ADFX and how their FMIC end tanks where blowing off becuase of poor work or was something else?


Do you have proof (pictures) of bad welds on a Magnus manifold? That would be great.
 
I know a thing about welding and most of the stuff i said before came from my brother. He is a professional welder. Underwater and regular. He said re-welding it would be a good idea cause when you get this new one you dont know for sure how the 2 peices of ally are guna be bonded. Just cause a bead is nice dosent mean it did its job. Check it for stress marks and bad welds. You can do a search online and probly find pics of what they look like when you get the new one. Like another guy said before rushing the product out is a major factor. Machines cant weld like a human therfor the quality isnt the best or maybe better who know's. My bro said to check the TB cause pressure like that is pretty strong to blow a weld usually. He dosent know turbo cars really either but he knows dinamicks and says check the turbo if anything might have happened to that also. If the TB was opened when it happened that might have travled to it.Good luck with the new one man.
 
GVR4592 said:
Do you have proof (pictures) of bad welds on a Magnus manifold? That would be great.


No I don't have pictures & I stated I have seen in person 2 magnus SMIM that have come apart 1 was on a 1g and the other was on a Evo 8 which I will say Magnus did replace them both but did fix the messed up 1on the evo 8 and sent it back and then again it busted the welds at the Runner's and also cracked going up the runner towards the plenium .

I can tell you this the Welds on my JM Fab SMIM seem to be alot thicker then that of the Magnus SMIM

the 1st gen was running a 50 trim at around 20psi or so No nitrous , NO meth or water injection all pump gas

the Evo 8 was running a GT40R @ around 35-40psi
 
I can't believe you guys are making this kid believe that his intake manifold blew apart due to "improper ignition timing" or a "backfire".

Explain to me what would be improper ignition timing and how his stock Ecu'd car would run it?
 
AMS Eric #2 said:
I can't believe you guys are making this kid believe that his intake manifold blew apart due to "improper ignition timing" or a "backfire".

Explain to me what would be improper ignition timing and how his stock Ecu'd car would run it?

Thank you, Eric. Simply put, that manifold blew apart primarily due to poor welding and cracks forming due to pressure and heat cycles, if there was a "backfire" it was not the root cause of the break, it was just what made it large enough for you to notice it.
 
GSTeclipse said:
I can tell you this the Welds on my JM Fab SMIM seem to be alot thicker then that of the Magnus SMIM

The construction is different on the JM vs the Magnus too. I have never see a JM in person but on their site it looks like the main body of the manifold is one piece that is bent to its shape so there will obviously be less welds. The JM looks to have one or maybe 2 seam welds that run the lenght of it vs Magnus' which looks to be made of individual pieces.
 
GVR4592 said:
Aluminum welds are 10%-20% weaker in the heat affected zone, that goes for the material as well as the weld itself.

Well I was proven wrong and found some good info on aluminum welds to back up GVR4592 statement from Lincoln Electrics site:
Why is my aluminum weld much weaker than the parent material?

In steels a weld can be made as strong as the parent material, but this is not the case with aluminum. In almost all instances, the weld will be weaker than the parent material.

To further understand why this occurs, let's look at the two classifications of aluminum alloys: heat treatable and non-heat treatable. The latter category is hardened only by cold working which causes physical changes in the metal. The more the alloy is cold worked the stronger it gets.

But, when you weld an alloy that has been cold worked, you locally anneal the material around the weld so that it goes back to its 0 tempered (or annealed) condition and it becomes "soft". Therefore, the only time in the non-heat treatable alloys that you can make a weld as strong as the parent material is when you start with 0 tempered material.

With heat treatable aluminum alloys, the last heat treatment step heats the metal to approximately 400° F. But when welding, the material around the weld becomes much hotter than 400° F so the material tends to lose some of its mechanical properties. Therefore, if the operator doesn't perform post-weld heat treatments after welding, the area around the weld will become significantly weaker than the rest of the aluminum - by as much as 30 to 40 percent. If the operator does perform post weld heat treatments, the proprieties of a heat treatable aluminum alloy can be improved.

The following is a guide as to which series of aluminum alloys are heat treatable and which are not:

Heat treatable series: 2000, 6000, 7000.

Non-heat treatable: 1000, 3000, 4000, 5000.
 
Manifolds fail trust me I have seen BJ's (on our auto car at the time ), Polk, Venom, Dejinn, and a Magnus all crack in person. It happens, what matters is how the company fixes the problem. Marco has always stepped up and taken care of it, personally we always have rewelded them here because IMO if you cannot fix a crack in a SMIM yourself you probably shouldn't have one.
 
Because they do not all fail. The Magnus on my 5 speed car has not had a single problem in 3 years, has 100s of passes on it almost all in the 130-140MPH range. Shit happens this isn't buidling toyotas to sell to the public they are hand made in a lot of cases and designed for race purposes. You think I complain about not getting milage out of a pair of DOT slicks? More slicks fail prematurely than street tires, but most people don't drive on them to and from work everyday.
 
DSMJim said:
Dude you blew the welds on your intake manifold, how Fast and Furious!

Your problem is not the magnus mani, and will not be solved with that abortion shown above. The best welds in the world will not stop a manifold from blowing appart when you have a back fire. Cast OEM manifolds blow up into pieces when that happens.

Have any of you guys ever worked on a fast car before? I see a lot of people in here talking out their ass who know dick squat about anything. Not enough heat used, blah blah. shut up. You don't make intake manifolds and you obviously don't weld after what you just said so you should shut the hell up and sit down now please. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Thanks, this is just what I wanted to say...
 
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