BJ's & AP racing say they have never seen this before

[BOBS90TURBO]

I posted this prob 2 days ago in prob section with NO help. I just bought a bunch of new mods I want to install but can't untill I fix this problem.

First off my car was running great and then all of the sudden it starts dying at stops and idleing rough, BUT ONLY AFTER I DRIVE IT HARD, if i drive it around normal it does not do the dying/rough idle crap.

So I did a boost leak pressure test and found a leak on the backside of my turbo, on the turbo itself, It leaks on the top back side of the outlet side(not where the turbo connects to the housing) It is leaking at the top right next to the oil fitting on the very top of the turbo,
I asked Aniel Pagen(AP racing) and BJ (BJ's machine shop) the guys that built Shepards engine ect, the guys that make the BJ sheetmeatal intakes. And they both said they have never seen this happen before, how about you??

Here are the things I noticed that have changed since the probs started,
#1. My A/F gauge stays in the lean untill the car gets warm, then act normal.
#2. The engine has been running like crap untill it gets warm/hot, it was never cold natured before these probs started.
#3. I am sure that the probs(dying at stops & very rough idle) only start after I get on it hard, if I drive it normal it runs fine, but the minute I flog it the probs begin.

The only mods I did was a week ago, 2 1/2" DP and HKS exhaust, ported 2g mani, o2 housing, turbo housing and a fuel pressure gauge on the filter(reads 42psi).
After I did the mods the car ran great for a few days and then BAM...

What could cause this??Could it be the small boost leak on the turbo??

Also I have a new/rebuilt ECU,good TPS,ISC and ERG is blocked off and vac lines are removed,plug and Taylor 8.5 wires are new, 93 octane gas, my logger cable should be here any day, I may know more then.

Please give advise, even if you are guessing...........Thanks

 

[j_woody]

possibly a mas problem? an old car of mine would run like shit after I took it on the freeway for a few minutes, turned out to be a mas problem.

 

[BOBS90TURBO]

Thanks for the reply, but my mass is new, about a year old, could one go bad that soon?

I have a 2g mass and SACF I want to install, maybee I will go ahead and install the 2g mass and see if my newer 1g mass is bad, I just wanted to fix this problem before I did any more mods.

Also my boost gauge at idle reads 17 to 20 mostly at 18.

 

[TSIfreek]

Bob, I had the same problem with mine after runinnng it hard and found out that my stock fuel pump was going ang the ground for the pump was not getting a good conection on the top of the pump itself. What was happening is I was draining all the fuel out of the lines while driving the car hard and when coming to a stop there would be little fuel left in the lines causing it to surge and want to die. I found the out after I did the 255 HP pump and rewire of the power AND ground to the pump itself. Also check your injector conections for crosion inside the conector and the conetions on the injector itself this can also cause fuel problems I noticed this while having head work done. These cars get to be more of a pain in the ass when they get old

 

[TSIfreek]

Bob if this doesnt solve your probelm its probably your mass air time for a 2G and a SAFC

 

[BOBS90TURBO]

Kris, you have given me new hope, I was about ready to give up and light it on fire,
I will install my new 255hp and afpr in the morning, I will let you know. Again Thanks

 

[BOBS90TURBO]

I forgot to ask, so you do not think the boost leak out of the back of my turbo could cause these problems??????????

 

[Colossus]

What about the ISC? Have you tested it? My car runs normal and whenever I beat on it, it tends to wanna stall when I put the clutch in and idle rough....I think it's my ISC, I haven't tested mine out yet though.

I was linked this link when I posted about my problem.
http://dmtalon.v8eaters.com/ISC.html

Could also be the TPS?

 

[sunflashx]

Bob if this doesnt solve your probelm its probably your mass air time for a 2G and a SAFC

Time to borrow a know to be good 1g mas if the existing one is determined to be at fault, or possible to be causing problems.

Not time to introduce two more unknown variables into a troubled setup.

 

[TSIfreek]

No bob I dont think its your boost leak that is causing your Idling problems. If you have a boost leak it will bleed out boost insted of going therw the engine for power it has nothing to do with your problems. Boost leaks and vacume leaks are 2 completly diffrent. one is sucking and one is pushing.
The way I look at these cars are problems are easy to fix but coming up with the money to support our addiction is harder. Bob send me personal message regaurding how thing are going with it. Kris

 

[BISHILVR]

....actually boost leaks and vacuum leaks ARE one in the same on these cars......since the air leaking from the turbo has already been counted by the mass air flow meter, any loss of the already mtered air will result in poor idle, the same as when you vent your bov to atmosphere without compensating for it...you end up with the same problem, stalling at stop signs and surging, now go get some jb weld or silicone or somethin and fix the leak to see if that brings it around, do this first.....

 

[BOBS90TURBO]

Kris(tsifreek) your suggestion of cleaning the injector connections seemed to help a lot, it is no longer dieing at stops and has smoothed out the idle some,,BUT it still has somthing wrong with it, it still is running like shit untill it gets warm and my A/F gauge acts slow and reads lean untill it warms up. If I could find out what would cause this, It would help a lot.

Even though it stoped dieing at stops it is still screwd, come on with the advise it is helping.

Also as for the ISC motor, I checked it and it is good, TPS is also good.

And I found a diagram of a 14b and there is a big o-ring gasket that goes around that outer lip that is leaking. But you never hear of it leaking. Just my luck,, what am I saying all DSM ers have that luck, it's not just me

 

[johnh]

try checking or replacing your O2 sensor. that gauge reading lean sounds like maybe the sensors going bad.

 

[Syndicate13]

Well I can say that ever since I've owned my car my O2 voltage reads lean when I first start the car but just until I drive for a few feet. If it takes longer for the sensor to start giving readings then I would try replacing it first.

 

[TSIfreek]

bob is your BOV vented to atmsphere or is it vented back into the air filter intake pipe?

 

[BOBS90TURBO]

My BOV vents into my Dejon Tool intake.......

As for the O2 sensor going bad, could a bad O2 cause these problems???? I know there is somthing wrong with the O2 readings I am getting, it started doing the slow readings and lean reading untill warm(about 3-4 minutes of driving) the same day ity started running bad, so it must be related somehow,,,,Right

I think I am going to go ahead and install my new 255hp & HKS AFPR, and see what happens.

 

[JiveMasterT]

yeah, install those goodies and see what happens. just for the record, my a/f gauge says in the directions that it is going to read lean until the car warms up a bit, and my gauge does just that. just thought id tell you.

 

[psychlow]

ALL oxygen sensors will report low voltage when warming up - that's why we now have modern 4-wire oxygen sensors compared to older 2-wire sensors - the extra two wires kick on a heater. This is because they don't generate their full voltage until they are at about 600*F.

If it takes 4 minutes for it to warm up, you have either a bad connection to the for the heater wires, or you have a defective/failing sensor.

 

[BOBS90TURBO]

Well, this must be my problem then, because it used to start reading after 10-15 seconds, I was just wondering if something else could affect the A/F reading other that the O2.

Also I had somone ask about my charging system, could it cause these probs, my lights always do this wierd fast like flikering, mainly my dash light.

Who sells the cheapest O2's

 

[psychlow]

www.oxygensensors.com was pretty cheap for me.

 

[coltboostin]

I am having this problem also, stupid ca wants to stall after big pulls. I am thinking somethink woth ignition, like plugs or what not, because my logs are beartiful, so their is no lack of fuel. I just keep it in gear after long pulls now, I do not have time to really look into the problem. I have a 255, 550cc, AFPR at 45psi, and AFC, so their is no lack of fuel for the 60 trim

 

[hostile]

Check your ISC, there is a vfaq on vfaq.com under intake section.

Use a ohm meter and check the coils for resistance.

 

[KeltonDSMer]

DON'T buy a cheap ass O2 sensor. You might as well bite the bullet and buy a wide band 02 kit, lots of them have a 0-1volt signal output to the ECU as well as the 0-5volt wideband reading to you the user; this allows you to just run the wideband sensor and still have a readable signal to the ECU. These things are really accurate, like to .1 AFR from 10:1 to 16:1

 

[espinelli]

try checking or replacing your O2 sensor. that gauge reading lean sounds like maybe the sensors going bad.

i thought when you first start your motor they all read lean...after warming up they go back to normal.

 

[GSX0TIC]

Also my boost gauge at idle reads 17 to 20 mostly at 18

Are you referring to vacuum, which is in HG? Usually about 17-21 HG is good at idle. That's also where the car is at max vacuum and obviously at WOT it's at 0 vac.

ALL oxygen sensors will report low voltage when warming up - that's why we now have modern 4-wire oxygen sensors compared to older 2-wire sensors - the extra two wires kick on a heater. This is because they don't generate their full voltage until they are at about 600*F.

Yes you're correct. Cars have heated o2 sensors because o2 sensors dont even work properly or at all until they reach a certain temperature. Making them heated just speeds up the process.

Damn man sorry I don't have anything to tell you to help you with you problem. or maybe I do and I'm going to let you figure it out. If you have a Voltmeter, you can check relevant sensors to see if they are getting the required voltage. Just remember....Just because the check engine light isn't on doesn't mean a sensor isn't going bad. If a sensor is still within the parameters, it will not cause the check engine light to appear regardless if its not getting the required voltage.