BIG BRAKE UPGRADE: Question on Parts to use

[98autogstspyder]

I have devoted about 2 hours tonight reading and searching on info on the big brake upgrade for our cars. The vehicle I am upgrading is my '92 Talon Tsi Awd. It came with the single piston calipers and smaller rotors. Anyhow, I went to vfaq and read the info page on what donor cars have the upgraded big brakes on them. I went to my job (Advanced Auto Parts) and started searching to be sure. I found out that the part numbers on a '93 Talon Awd and a '93 3000gt SL are different. I had read that these cars both had the parts I could use interchangeably. Can anyone explain this?


To anyone that had done this upgrade:
What donor car did you chose?
Where did you find the brackets for the calipers?
Will an "upgrade" drilled and slotted rotor for the donor car from an
aftermarket vendor work to get a little bit more performance from the swap?

Thanks,

Tyler


P.s. Like I said I searched around alot and I am a bit confused mainly by the fact that the part numbers didnt match up on vehicles that supposedly had the same brakes.

 

[Turbo Shogun]

I got my calipers and brackets off a '96 Diamante.

Drilled and slotted rotors won't give you much performance if you're using the car for street duty. Save some money and just buy a set of blanks, good pads, and stainless lines, if you want to feel a good difference.

 

[98autogstspyder]

Well, I went and kept searching in our database and I plugged in a '96 diamante just like the one shogun got his brakes off of and I got some part numbers.

Off of a '96 Mitsubishi Diamante. I found several options under the listing for brake calipers.
Cardone Brand
19-B1516 and 19-B1517 are the part numbers for the calipers coming with the brackets. However, the computer said I could not order them.

Beck/Arnley Brand
079-0741 and 079-0742 are the part numbers for the calipers coming with the brackets as well but they also come "loaded", meaning they come with brake pads as well.
A guy at work found them for me at a local warehouse called Eastern Imports. If any of you are seriously considering them, contact me and I will give you the number but only after I had gotten mine so that they don't go out of stock on me. By the way, the price I found on these was $104.44 each. I think thats pretty decent.

I searched a '94 3000gt SL and found that the part numbers matched for the calipers and rotors meaning that the information above is correct for those of us trying to do the big brake upgrade.

MY QUESTION IS THIS... I did a search for a '93 Eclipse Gsx on the brake calipers. The part numbers for these calipers from the Cardone brand were 19-1510 and 19-1511. Why are the part numbers for the '93 all wheel drive Eclipse calipers different from the '96 Diamante calipers?

I hope this information helps some of you. But I am curious to know the answer to my question above.

-Tyler

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

Because Advanced Auto apal system sucks, I work there. They have a bunch of wrong part numbers, I wouldnt be surprised to find them different. Why dont you just buy a set off of someone on dsmtuners?

 

[daren_p]

Not sure if its just a part number error, but do they happen to have different flex hose fittings? While the later 1g awd & 2g awd are the same caliper they use a different style fitting to connect the flex hose. The 1g's use a screw in fitting while the 2g's use a bango bolt fitting. If your getting SS brake lines it doesn't matter what calier you get as you can call up RRE & get them to do you a set of 1g SS lines with the 2g bango bolt if you end up with the 2g calipers. An upgraded pad is a better investment then drilled/slotted rotors. Drilling/slotting removes mass, which decreases heat absorbtion. They are more expensive & just lead to more brake dust and faster wear. All the talk about drilling/slotting for better performance is just a bunch of hype IMO. Origionally they were used to release the trapped gasses that built up between the rotor & pad, but now with the newer pad materials this isn't an issue. If you want anything just go slotted, this will help clean the pad face, but like I said IMO it isn't worth the extra cost because of the extra dust & wear. Not to mention if not done properly (alot of companies just take blank rotors & drill/slot them themselves) the can explode.

I'm sure someone will argue, well they cross drill in racing so it must be okay. Brakes for racing & for the street are two totally different things. In racing its all about weight, cross drilling reducxces weight. They also change rotors basically every race or more often.

 

[98autogstspyder]

Ok, my questions for the calipers seem to be answered. I'll be ordering the caliper/bracket and pad combo and then getting some rotors some other place, havent figured out what I wanted to do with them. I will probably go with drilled and slotted because I like the look as well .

Now my final question that should wrap this up is the brake lines and brake line fittings. I planned on getting new lines anyway. I was just going to get new rubber lines, but from what I hear I really should get the stainless lines. So my car is a '92 awd talon and I'll be putting on the bigger calipers etc;.... when ordering the stainless lines, do I order them for a '96 diamante/'96 3000gt or for a '92 awd talon? Are the connections not going to the caliper, but going into the car the same on all Mitsubishis? I read something about the brake line to caliper fittings being a 1.25 M10 thread when using the 3000gt rotors. Where can I find a stainless steal line kit that comes with everything? I have read RRE's site, but it wasn't that clear to me.

EDIT: Are the 3000gt/Diamante big brakes considered to be "2g brakes?" Would ordering the bigger brakes from a '93 awd prevent all of this line fitting switch out?

Thanks for all the help so far,

Tyler

 

[Starscream]

Drilling/slotting removes mass, which decreases heat absorbtion. They are more expensive & just lead to more brake dust and faster wear. All the talk about drilling/slotting for better performance is just a bunch of hype IMO. Origionally they were used to release the trapped gasses that built up between the rotor & pad, but now with the newer pad materials this isn't an issue. If you want anything just go slotted, this will help clean the pad face, but like I said IMO it isn't worth the extra cost because of the extra dust & wear. Not to mention if not done properly (alot of companies just take blank rotors & drill/slot them themselves) the can explode.

I'm sure someone will argue, well they cross drill in racing so it must be okay. Brakes for racing & for the street are two totally different things. In racing its all about weight, cross drilling reducxces weight. They also change rotors basically every race or more often.

I concur. Drilled rotors make the brake disc weaker, and like daren_p said, many drilled rotors are done by unprofessional hands, making them a risk.

Oh, and Porsche converted their race cars from drilled+slotted rotors to a solid rotor...just some food for thought

 

[steve]

If you look at the calipers from earlier donor cars you won't have to mess with the 1g vs 2g fittings. I used the ones from a '92 Diamante but I could have used them from a 91 or later NA 3000GT/Stealth. My local junk yard charged me $30 each and I rebuilt and painted them.
It might have been worth paying for rebuilds but I applied the money SS lines from RRE since they had the best price. I really wish some of the ebay shops would sell plated ground blanks for the prices they charge for slotted and drilled.

Steve