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Best 2.0L autocross turbo?

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aaronmatusz

15+ Year Contributor
118
2
May 24, 2005
new london, Wisconsin
My small 16G turbine housing is very badly cracked and I've been meaning to try something new anyway.

Some options I am aware of:

GT2860RS: Expensive and needs custom fitment...still, you secretly
wish you had one on your car. =o]

GT2868: Take the same turbo as above and jam a 68mm HTA
compressor wheel in there. Holy crap! ...I'm told FP makes it.

FP DSM68 HTA: A great price, but will it compete with the above turbos
and would it spool at least as good as a new small 16G?

If any one knows about these turbos and wether they suit my aplication, please chime in. If other turbos come to mind, feel free to mention them as well.
 
GT2860RS: Expensive and needs custom fitment...still, you secretly
wish you had one on your car. =o]

Expensive, custom fitment - yes. Wish I had one? No thanks, i'll put on a 14b and make the same power for $150.

GT2868: Take the same turbo as above and jam a 68mm HTA
compressor wheel in there. Holy crap! ...I'm told FP makes it.

Interesting, nice option for people who are already T2 flanged (might mention it to my buddy with a GTI that runs a 2860RS currently), wouldn't bother on a DSM though. Brings up an interesting possibility for an HTA68 based FP28 bolt-on for 2G guys too.

FP DSM68 HTA: A great price, but will it compete with the above turbos
and would it spool at least as good as a new small 16G?

This is the way I'd go, great spool, great power potential, and a good price (on sale right now for $719). I can't find the post, but Curt B swapped one on a car that had a small 16g and noted that it spooled about the same while flowing 10 lb/min more at the same boost level. I'm tempted to pick up another DSM just so I can play with this turbo.
 
GT2860RS: Wish I had one? No thanks, i'll put on a 14b and make the same power for $150.

No doubt for power other turbos can be had for less, but I'm just dying for boost at 2500rpm while getting around 280-300awhp.

GT2868: Interesting, nice option for people who are already T2 flanged...

Sigh, I know it would be a pain to install, but in the name of competition I'll do some silly things...and it DOES look like the ultimate for my purpose...assuming cost is no object of course.

This is the way I'd go, great spool, great power potential, and a good price (on sale right now for $719). I can't find the post, but Curt B swapped one on a car that had a small 16g and noted that it spooled about the same while flowing 10 lb/min more at the same boost level.

Sounds very promissing, can't wait to see some dyno info.
Wouldn't mind saving a ton-O-cash as well.
 
If cost is (relatively) no object, pick up a stock EVO X turbo and fab a manifold and o2 housing. The X is back to a normal rotation turbo, and still uses a TD05H turbine wheel, so any DSM turbo with an 05H wheel will drop into it's turbine housing so you could just use the turbine housing and drop an HTA68 into it too. With that combo, you'll see insane amounts of transient response and probably more top end than with a 7cm housing.
 
Ah well...
I suppose cost must be consitered after all: I spent $650 to have a new FP manifold wrapped in two layers of inconel and I can't imagine tossing that aside.
I was gonna use the FP mani even with the Garrett turbos if one of those was chosen with the help of an adapter plate (upon recomendation of my local shop).
Also, I've heard many horror stories of welded manifolds cracking soon after being header wrapped.

Anyway, your initial thoughts seem to be the best, FP68HTA dyno results is all I'm waiting on. =o]

Thanks for your input!
 
With the above choices you have listed, id go with the Dsm68. Its simple bolt on, spools fast, capable of good power and looks stock. If you really want to liven things up, throw a cyclone intake on there.
 
We are thinking the same thought: I have a Cyclone mani installed and working via DSMlink V2.
That and I should probably look into changing the cams from Comp 264 intake / BC stage 2 exhaust to HKS 264 intake and exhaust...I'm told that kind of mismatch was a bad idea.
 
For autocross, there's no way you'd want to swap out an aftermarket turbo - it would automatically put you into the highest possible class, where you would not be competitive unless you had an all out race car chassis (even the best built DSMs aren't very competitive in that class). The best autocross turbo is a fresh stock turbo with supporting mods. But I guess if you don't care about being competitive, a small GT28R-flavor dual BB turbo would be fun.
 
For autocross, there's no way you'd want to swap out an aftermarket turbo - it would automatically put you into the highest possible class, The best autocross turbo is a fresh stock turbo with supporting mods.

How strict is it? Could you get away with something like the 68hta or even a small or big16g as "stock"?
 
In Street Mod, the class I run in, I have to stick with the same make (Mitsu) of motor block and head, any other mod goes I'm pretty sure.

Now I just need to find a way to wedge the 1800HP fourteen cylinder radial engine from the Mitsubishi Zero (WWII warbird) between the wheels...no wait, I'd need a periscope to see over it...never mind.
 
How strict is it? Could you get away with something like the 68hta or even a small or big16g as "stock"?

Strict? stock is stock. You may lie to your local competitors and get away with it at local autocrosses. But id like to see you try that at Nationals, wouldnt fly at all.

Soo your saying your knowingly "cheating" out other people that try just as hard and put in just as much time and effort and are fellow car enthusiasts. To me, thats worse than placing last in class. You would be crying a fit if someone cheated on you while you put a lot of effort into going to the edge within class rules.
 
Yeah, don't cheat, just run SM if you want the bigger turbo. The point isn't to win unless you make that the point, the real point is to go out and have fun. Winning is just a fun side effect.
 
2.4l + EvoIII + Cyclone = magically delicious. Full boost at 2500rpms, but plenty of torque from 2k.
 
Yes, a 2.4L would be sooooo sexy... but where the heck does a guy find a block?
It seems they're a bit hard to come by in my area and some of them don't fit a DSM bell housing...and I don't know how to tell if I'm getting something that'll work.
A 2.3L doesn't sound like an option 'cause they aren't happy at high revs (short rods & all that).

Aw heck... Dallas, will you sell me your car?
 
Yes, a 2.4L would be sooooo sexy... but where the heck does a guy find a block?
It seems they're a bit hard to come by in my area and some of them don't fit a DSM bell housing...and I don't know how to tell if I'm getting something that'll work.
A 2.3L doesn't sound like an option 'cause they aren't happy at high revs (short rods & all that).

Aw heck... Dallas, will you sell me your car?

A G4CS is the 6bolt 2.4l block and the 4G64 is the 7bolt 2.4l block.
If you went with a stoker 2.3l 4g63, you would get the quick spool, wouldn't that be beneficial to you? Many guys have taken their strokers 8k+
 
Yes, a 2.4L would be sooooo sexy... but where the heck does a guy find a block?
It seems they're a bit hard to come by in my area and some of them don't fit a DSM bell housing...and I don't know how to tell if I'm getting something that'll work.
A 2.3L doesn't sound like an option 'cause they aren't happy at high revs (short rods & all that).

Aw heck... Dallas, will you sell me your car?

Heh, got 9k? Im probably gonna sell it in the next year anyways :thumb:

Theirs a thread burried here that has a list of the cars that came with a 2.4l and the 6 and 7 bolts.

Mine was from a 94 Galant and cost $50. U-pull it ftw.
 
Right this minute I'm on a ship with very slow internet (6-7kps) so searching for compatability info is barely possible. *Sigh*

6-bolt stroker(100mm,4G64)crank comes in...
88 Galant
92 Colt vista
89-91 Hyundai Sonata
89-91 Mitsubishi Mightymax
90-91 Mitsubishi L200
90-91 Ram 50

7-bolt stroker(100mm,46G4)crank comes in...
92+ Plymouth Colt Vista
92+ Mitsubishi Expo LRV
92+ Eagle Summit (wagon)
95+ Galant Es
95+ Eclipse GS
92+ Mitsubishi L200

I have no idea if the BLOCKS in these cars will fit 1G engine mounts and tranny bell housing however.
 
I have a big t28 turbo ported and it spools at just above 3500 rpm I heard this turbo is good for auto crossing. I am thinking on upgrading since I dont auto cross so let me know if your interested I have like maybe 2k miles on it.
 
After much thought and reading, I believe toofast82 and Dallas J are correct: Stop ####y-footin' around and just stroke the darn thing.

So there it is, the solution is a DSM68 HTA turbo and a 2.3L short block.

Thanks again for good advice.
 
After much thought and reading, I believe toofast82 and Dallas J are correct: Stop ####y-footin' around and just stroke the darn thing.

So there it is, the solution is a DSM68 HTA turbo and a 2.3L short block.

Thanks again for good advice.

Thats what I like to hear :thumb:
 
I wonder how the DSM68 HTA would compare with a FP3052; both on a 2.3L... Obviously the latter is more expensive, but should have better transient response due to the full ball bearing design.

My ultimate plan was to stroke my 2.0L to a 2.3L and toss a FP3052 on it. However my car is split 50/50 between autocross & time trials, so I need a dual purpose turbo.
 
Ball bearings would make for better spool if the turbos in question had similar flowing compressors. As far as I can tell, the DSM68 is a big 16G with a fancy compressor wheel in it and should be thought of as a next generation E316G in terms of performance. ie: An E316G with 10% more flow and a teeny bit better spool.

The FP3150 is supposed to be the road course turbo of choice on a stroker, so I wouldn't think of going for a bigger turbo than that on a dual-purpose car. Perhaps you could keep an eye out for a used one and tune things for more low-end grunt?
 
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