before torqing down the head

[Zacksdsm]

All the threads I have read about this...

Why has nobody mentioned anything about using an air compressor and blowing out the excess oil on and in the threads so the arp bolts seat down all the way properly?

Like if the oil sits down there this could effect the torque on the bolts as it would cause a seal so the head bolts will not sit down all the way...right?

 

[wolf20043]

All the threads I have read about this...

Why has nobody mentioned anything about using an air compressor and blowing out the excess oil on and in the threads so the arp bolts seat down all the way properly?

Like if the oil sits down there this could effect the torque on the bolts as it would cause a seal so the head bolts will not sit down all the way...right?

You should always run a tap and clean out the threads for the head studs before you put them back in because as you said it could give you false tourqe if it is a tight fit. I beleive most posts here I have seen have pointed out to tap and clean the threads.
Mike

 

[Zacksdsm]

yes I read to tap and clean but no one said anything about blowing out the oil. Just curious because I am going to go buy a compressor to do this. I don't see how a tap will get the standing oil out...Thanks

 

[wolf20043]

yes I read to tap and clean but no one said anything about blowing out the oil. Just curious because I am going to go buy a compressor to do this. I don't see how a tap will get the standing oil out...Thanks

By "clean" I mean exactly that. you do not want to put the head bolts back in before the threads are clean, But I am sure most people know that if there is an obstruction(ie; dirt,rust,metal shavings, OIL, or water) it needs to be removed. If not you are shortening the bolt holes.

 

[95AWD_TSI_TALON]

This is not true. The oil will push itself out. What I say here is true an "feezable" with head STUDS. When you run the head studs down they will get tight...After less then a min or so the pressure under the bolt push's everything out and the studs will thread down farther. Do this and just recheck them after about a minute before you drop the head down. Now with using the stock head bolts it will throw your readings off. This is the reason why you are suppost to recheck the head bolt torque AFTER first start up/ warmed motor up according to the mitsubishi repair manual.
Matthew

I have down about 30 head gasket jobs, almost all involving ARP head studs. Have had no problem.

 

[Zacksdsm]

Well I have a question about the arp bolts...which I just installed...

THe instructions say
Torque the nuts to 70 ft lbs for arp moly assembly lubricant(or arp thread sealer) or torque to 85 ft lbs with 30wt motor oil.

Then it says...

Due to the expansion rate of aluminum, it is reommended that the torque should be 65 ft lbs with arp moly assem. lube...

Ok Contradiction...

I used a 3 step process and torqued to 70 lbs.. is this enough? I read alot of threads where people have torqued to 81-85 lbs.

The torque specs are specified for the tensile strength and size of the stud says arp. In this case 190,000 psi and 7/16 inch diameter. I would think that arp would know the correct torque specs...what do you all think?
What were your torque specs?

 

[wolf20043]

This is not true. The oil will push itself out. What I say here is true an "feezable" with head STUDS. When you run the head studs down they will get tight...After less then a min or so the pressure under the bolt push's everything out and the studs will thread down farther. Do this and just recheck them after about a minute before you drop the head down. Now with using the stock head bolts it will throw your readings off. This is the reason why you are suppost to recheck the head bolt torque AFTER first start up/ warmed motor up according to the mitsubishi repair manual.
Matthew

I have down about 30 head gasket jobs, almost all involving ARP head studs. Have had no problem.

And it can be done that way, but not with the piece of mind that nothing else happened to fall in those holes while removing the head and gasket.
Mike

 

[Zacksdsm]

I used a 3 step process and torqued to 70 lbs.. is this enough? I read alot of threads where people have torqued to 81-85 lbs.

The torque specs are specified for the tensile strength and size of the stud says arp. In this case 190,000 psi and 7/16 inch diameter. I would think that arp would know the correct torque specs...what do you all think?
What were your torque specs?

 

[Zacksdsm]

Come on people I know alot of people use the arp bolts. I have arps in my 90 eclipse also but never questioned arp before. What with the expansion rate of aluminum effect the applied torque?

Should I torque down to 80 lbs I used the moly lube. Please ...

 

[Zacksdsm]

Ohh I am speaking about my 95 tsi but I also have a 90 clips

 

[95AWD_TSI_TALON]

I used a 3 step process and torqued to 70 lbs.. is this enough? I read alot of threads where people have torqued to 81-85 lbs.

The torque specs are specified for the tensile strength and size of the stud says arp. In this case 190,000 psi and 7/16 inch diameter. I would think that arp would know the correct torque specs...what do you all think?
What were your torque specs?

The book I believe states.
15
30
45
60
75
loosen and re-torque same steps

Personally on all the ARP/MLS head jobs I do My torque wrench goes down to 25ft/lbs I go
25,40,60,75,85......loosen then 25,40, 60, 75, 85, 85 and actually on my personal car I took it to 95 just because of the higher amount of boost I am running.....90% of people do not need to know this or do this if they are needing the info if i just provided. Over torquing the head can warp it if done to far and not properly.

Matthew

 

[Zacksdsm]

Thanks...I torqued to 75lbs but I will go to 80lbs...