Bear rear brake upgrade?

[Mike_GSX]

Hi, I want to order the 13" Bear Big brake upgrade for the front.
(still searching for the best and cheapest deal)

Does anyone know, is there something for the rear?
(not bigger, just something like (oem)replacements, so front and rear looks quite the same) ?

If yes, where can I get them?

Thanks

Mike

 

[jammer]

In my opinion, I would go with the package deal from The Speed Factor in the vendor section. I just asked about this today, and apparently it comes with all four rotors in your prefered style (drilled, slotted, ect), 4 SS brake lines, and all 8 pads. And it has a really great price.. But it all depends on what your goals for the car are. Biggest? Best looking? Auto X? my brakes are almost shot, so I know I will be upgrading to these in the very near future. whatever you choose, make sure to post your results and pics. just a thought -jam.

 

[Mike_GSX]

Hi, I couldn't find the deal form The Speed Factor.
Is it from Bear?
Because I want to get the 13" Bear Big brake upgrade for the front anyway.

The only thing is, I want some brake discs that looks quite the same like the Bear in the front.

 

[Vandy4g63]

just keep in mind, bigger rears probably won't help too much with actual braking distances, esp if you are upgrading the fronts.

Other companies such as willwood offer 4 brake kits (theirs has a 12" rear with dual piston calipers), but all of these types of kits are quite expensive. The stock equipment in the rear is pretty pathetic (non-vented single piece rotors w/1 piston caliper), so these kits tend to be pretty pricey because they have to replace EVERYTHING.

Brake info:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=368072

good luck! (best bet is wilwood

 

[Omega]

You will have large improvements with the BAER, TCE front brake kits. I wouldn't worry too much about having the stock rear brakes.. unless it's a style thing.

Anyone can put the speed factor brake kit together. You won't get nearly the same stopping power compared to the aforementioned kits. For a stock setup the llines and pads would be pretty good.

I found the BAER Track kit for $650 somewhere... bare bones I believe, no zinc plating or rotor gimicks. http://hopupracing.com/bafrtrclbrsy2.html

 

[b00stedeclipse]

I can actually vouch for Hop Up Racing...their Baer Track Kits ARE cross drilled, slotted, and zinc washed. And they DO have THE CHEAPEST PRICE for that particular set up on the web. Im very happy with their service and they came within a week of ordering. Great customer service and you can check them out on my 95 eclipse in my pic gallery.

You will have large improvements with the BAER, TCE front brake kits. I wouldn't worry too much about having the stock rear brakes.. unless it's a style thing.

Anyone can put the speed factor brake kit together. You won't get nearly the same stopping power compared to the aforementioned kits. For a stock setup the llines and pads would be pretty good.

I found the BAER Track kit for $650 somewhere... bare bones I believe, no zinc plating or rotor gimicks. http://hopupracing.com/bafrtrclbrsy2.html

 

[matt97gst]

$650 with the crossdrilling and slotted rotors?? really?

 

[jtmcinder]

If you really have a strong enough cosmetic drive to want rear brakes that resemble the fronts, talk to Todd at TCE. He can create a set-up that will stop the car and look the way you want. One example is his 12.2" front and rear set-up. Plus, he's a smart enough business guy not to laugh at you.

- Jtoby

 

[Todd TCE]

I'm not laughing at anyone...unless they wonder if they can get the kit for $650... !

 

[paul s]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Here is a picture of my rear AEM 11.5 inch...

 

[Todd TCE]

What is that exactly if you don't mind my asking.
Looks like the stock rear rotor with what for a caliper?

 

[paul s]

Stock caliper with EBC Redstuff pads and 11.5 rotors, stock are 10 inch I think..

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Greg Collier]

If you have not bought anything yet, then yes, go to TCEperformanceproducts.com and let them set you up.

 

[Todd TCE]

Trying to figure out what that rotor is off of....

I'll pull my notes on 3000GT parts. That's my guess....

The 3000 is a cool car but a mess when it comes to parts changes. Vented, non vented rears, single and twin pot calipers...and that's just the rear!

 

[matt97gst]

I'm not laughing at anyone...unless they wonder if they can get the kit for $650... !

Why is it funny that I was wondering if you could really get the Baer Track Kit w/ slotted and cross drilled rotors for $650?... I hate feeling left out.

 

[Omega]

Why is it funny that I was wondering if you could really get the Baer Track Kit w/ slotted and cross drilled rotors for $650?... I hate feeling left out.

There just isn't a snowballs chance in hell that Todd would sell one of his kits for $650, that's all.

 

[DSM PERFORMANCE]

Upgrading the rear brakes is only useful if you can keep the bias front to
rear proper. Stock the car has too much rear bias which makes it difficult
to keep the car stable in the braking zone on a track. Upgrading the rear can be dangerous, just put a good set of pads at the rear and you'll be fine.

 

[ndilo21]

I think he is just looking to get something for the rear that is similar to whatever front brake kit he gets, for looks. If so I would just suggest getting a set of stock sized rotors in the same pattern as the front, slotted, cross drilled, both.....

here is a pic of mine, you could order just a cheap set of rotors off of ebay.
nevermind i cant get the pic to post, must be 2 big

 

[definitiveno]

Upgrading the rear brakes is only useful if you can keep the bias front to
rear proper. Stock the car has too much rear bias which makes it difficult
to keep the car stable in the braking zone on a track. Upgrading the rear can be dangerous, just put a good set of pads at the rear and you'll be fine.

you can tune the rears with a proportioning valve no problem.

 

[Todd TCE]

The statement IS correct. To a point.

If you add serious braking up front and leave the rear alone you can shift the bias too much to the front and leave something on the table out back as well. Now you just cook the hell out of the fronts as they seem to be doing all the work. Common with some giant caliper fit things I've seen where there's just TOO much front static bias. The rears don't even get fed any pressure at times.

And like the fronts, a good kit for the rear will offer you good pad selection for getting the most (but not too much) out of it. Doing so with an extended thermal capacity where stock parts give up.

Lastly the set up of the car alone can dictate what can and cannot be done in the rear. The more and longer you can keep weight over the rear axle the more you can exploit the rear brakes. If you do then you should do it by working the parts to say 70% of their capacity rather than 95% no?

 

[DSM PERFORMANCE]

If you upgrade the rear and then use a brake bias controller to counteract
the excessive rear bias, you might as well just run the stock rear brakes
again because you have just defeated the larger rear brakes by turning the
bias down...

The 2 Dsm (USCC 2003) got Stoptech at front (is big enough ?) and stock at rear + good pads, I've talked with Scot Gray and he told me that upgrading the rear more then that is a real bad idea. Except for 'good looking' show car, I don't see why we should, Stock the car has already too much rear bias.

 

[suicidal2af]

If you upgrade the rear and then use a brake bias controller to counteract
the excessive rear bias, you might as well just run the stock rear brakes
again because you have just defeated the larger rear brakes by turning the
bias down...

The 2 Dsm (USCC 2003) got Stoptech at front (is big enough ?) and stock at rear + good pads, I've talked with Scot Gray and he told me that upgrading the rear more then that is a real bad idea. Except for 'good looking' show car, I don't see why we should, Stock the car has already too much rear bias.

You're overlooking one fact...even though the rear stopping power won't change much, the larger rotor will cool easier and faster.

 

[definitiveno]

You're overlooking one fact...even though the rear stopping power won't change much, the larger rotor will cool easier and faster.

Stopping power will increase substantially. The proportioning valve is just to make sure your big rear brakes don't overrun the big front brakes duties. You still want a front brake bias, but if you have equal size rotors and calipers all around you have to adjust them to do so.

 

[jtmcinder]

I don't agree that the stock bias is too much to the rear, at least not on my 97 AWD. When I'm on my stock suspension with normal tires, it seems fine. And as soon as I put on the racing suspension (about 1.3" drop and much more front camber), it's much too front biased, even with R-compounds. In fact, if it weren't for the increase in unsprung weight, I would have swapped in early-95 rears a long time ago (while leaving the prop valve as is). As it stands, I'm back to thinking about removing the prop valve, tying the rears together, and running them through an adjustable in the cockpit.

- Jtoby

 

[Poloturbo]

I don't agree that the stock bias is too much to the rear, at least not on my 97 AWD. When I'm on my stock suspension with normal tires, it seems fine. And as soon as I put on the racing suspension (about 1.3" drop and much more front camber), it's much too front biased, even with R-compounds. In fact, if it weren't for the increase in unsprung weight, I would have swapped in early-95 rears a long time ago (while leaving the prop valve as is). As it stands, I'm back to thinking about removing the prop valve, tying the rears together, and running them through an adjustable in the cockpit.

- Jtoby

This is a 1G thing.
The same here with -1.5 all around. TOO much front bias even on stock form.