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BCS Mod / Restrictor removal [merged]

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airkyd

20+ Year Contributor
163
0
Jun 4, 2002
Richmond Hill,
All BCS restrictor removal threads are combined here.
free mod restricter mods

I saw a 91 Eagle talon TSi yesterday that had one of the tubes on the Boost Control Solenoid Covered up by a piece of rubber. What is that doing... and is that a good thing?
 
Has any done the dual stage boost controller mod, using the BCS and a manual boost controller on a T-25? What boost levels were you at on and off? Did you notice a difference at all? It seemed that mine was not faster at all, actually slower feeling. Any thoughts on this, or ideas? Thanks in advance, Keith. :thumb:
 
I haven't done this, but I think I know why you aren't going any faster. The problem would be the T-25. It's really small and doesn't flow that much, thats why you are not feeling a big diffrence. It won't matter if you're running 10psi or 25psi, it would be the same, sort of. Please do not go out and try that though. Once you start upgrading everything you will be able to tell the diffrence between low and high boost.
 
agreed, once i upgraded to my 14b i felt the difference in boost, just a sugestion. If you want to notice a difference without upgrading your turbo, take off your o2 housing, your manifold and ehaust housing, and port the living heck out of it. then slap it back on your car will feel sluggish at first but then open up like a mother trucker, at least to what your used too.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I know that the T25 is not that good, but mine is brand new and I know that it is good shape. I figured I would feel a little difference. Not sure though. Any other suggestions?
 
Hey hey! Just took my BCS restrictor out and now my car's hesitating like a mofo as soon as I'm full spool. Somewhere between 3300 and 5300 RPM. It actually stops hesitating a little higher around 5800 RPM. Any ideas??
 
Sounds like it upped the boost to much and your pulling timing and knocking. You should get a boost gauge and see how many psi it's running, and a logger to be safe.
 
thats def what it feels like...i got the restrictor back out of the trashcan and im going to put the damn thing back in....
 
oookay....put it back in and its still doing the same crap....maybe I just have a boost leak or something ###. Guess we'll find out. Im gonna go check the biatch for leaks here soon. Meanwhile, anyone else got any idears??
 
oookay...so i did a boost leak check and my damn BOV is freakin leaking RIGHT away. I think I still have a 1G BOV @ my rents' house so I'll try that, even tho I dont have the flange anymore (I dont think). Does anyone think this could be the issue?? It looks like the thing starts leaking just before the damn wastegate actuator moves.....
 
yeah im a moron.....just FYI -- turned out I needed to change my plugs. Its a new (to me) car and the dude that had it before me put platinum plugs in her....

Soooo....moral of the story? Always check the obvious first!! Anywhoo....I guess that's all....
 
No and not really, but almost.
You should leave the BCS there, in place and plugged into it's harness for emission purposes as well as to keep you ECU happy. You will throw codes if you completely remove/unplug it.

You can, however, get a $15 ebay MBC (I did and mine works flawlessly) and take the two rubber hoses, like you said, and disconnect them from the solenoid and use those lines to connect your MBC.

But theres a catch. Thats not really how we want to plug in our MBC - actually not at all. You would want to cap the nipple on the side of the intake pipe face you, its the really small one, and then just pocket the hose that went from the BCS to the intake pipe. You can also completely remove and later re-use the second hose coming off the BCS.
For the MBC installation, you should have a line coming from the compressor housing to the side nipple on the MBC. The bottom nipple of the MBC should have a line going to the wastegate actuator nipple. :dsm:
 
Have you checked for any boost leaks? I know I was loosing power and acting really weird at higher RPM's after one of my hose clamps came loose. Always something good to check no matter what, and you can make a boost leak tester for like three bucks!! hehehe. Just get a pvc cap and a valve stem.
 
:thumb: I know that the BCS mod releases 1-2psi of restricted boost but looking through the forums i havent been able to find what the mod actually does and how to actually do it. I believe the previous owner may have already done this to my car and i have a MBC but im trying to reduce my boost back towards a stock of 10-12psi instead of 15psi can anyone help? :thumb:
 
you would have to get a manual boost controller...

what you do is follow your vacuum line from your wastegate to your stock Boost Control Solenoid...

Take the hose that leads to the j pipe and thread a screw inside of it... just one that is barely bigger than the hole... thread it in and pull... it should pop right out... its just a plastic insert...

if it doesnt come out, then its not there, or its the wrong hole... the stock BCS only has 2 nipples...

You cannot reverse it once its done... you would have to build or buy a manual boost controller...

all it does is alter the air signal going from the source to the wastegate and it lets the wastegate open less for the amount of air that is going in...
 
:thumb: I know that the BCS mod releases 1-2psi of restricted boost but looking through the forums i havent been able to find what the mod actually does and how to actually do it. I believe the previous owner may have already done this to my car and i have a MBC but im trying to reduce my boost back towards a stock of 10-12psi instead of 15psi can anyone help? :thumb:

Simply run a vacuum line from the wastegate actuator to a boost source, such as the one on the j-pipe or compressor nipple. That should give you roughly 12 psi.
 
No and not really, but almost.
You should leave the BCS there, in place and plugged into it's harness for emission purposes as well as to keep you ECU happy. You will throw codes if you completely remove/unplug it.

You can, however, get a $15 ebay MBC (I did and mine works flawlessly) and take the two rubber hoses, like you said, and disconnect them from the solenoid and use those lines to connect your MBC.

But theres a catch. Thats not really how we want to plug in our MBC - actually not at all. You would want to cap the nipple on the side of the intake pipe face you, its the really small one, and then just pocket the hose that went from the BCS to the intake pipe. You can also completely remove and later re-use the second hose coming off the BCS.
For the MBC installation, you should have a line coming from the compressor housing to the side nipple on the MBC. The bottom nipple of the MBC should have a line going to the wastegate actuator nipple. :dsm:

Sorry to bring back old thread, but I passed emissions and don't throw a CEL for removing the BCS, I guess it matters on the car.
 
is this process the same on a 1g because im having a hard time finding that thing.... is it the solenoid on top of my air canister?
 
i finally got the restrictor out but also just got a turbo xs mbc to put on... does that completely replace the bcs and do i still have to leave that plugged in after i install the mbc
 
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