Battery Relocation and Alcoholism...

[Ludachris]

Thanks for the reply Stacy. After looking through a bunch of sites, it seems like most power distribution blocks are made for 4 gauge wire. Not too many available for 2 gauge. Guess I should have looked at this before running 2 gauge all the way to the back. My choices are pretty limited.

 

[mitsuclipsegsx]

2g

http://www.vadsm.com/tech/battery/index.html

 

[wishihadatalon]

Hey Chris. I don't have a diagram, sorry about that. It's been a while since I sold my car. Oh well, we all make mistakes.

But as for the blocks, as long as they'll accept the 2 ga. wire they should be fine for what you're doing. I'm sure that Street Wires has you covered.

I just hooked up everything that was hooked up to the battery to the 4 way block. There were 2 white wires that I put together into 1 spot on it. The other 3 I put in there own spots. My 4 way block also had 3 outs for larger wires, you don't really need 3, but at least get a block that has 2.

I ran the factory power wire to the starter (Black / Red stripe) to the other block and then from the single block, I ran wire back into to the 4 way. Then, from the 4 way to the back of the car.

Now that you have the wire in the back of the car, run it to the last single fuse block. Run wire from your block to one of the posts on the kill switch, I forget if these have +/- symbols on them or not, but anyways, run wire from the other post to the positive terminal on the battery. Now run your ground from the negative terminal of your battery to the chassis, I used the child seat bolt.

One thing I forgot to add is, if you've done a fuel pump rewire, now is a good time to hook the positive from that to the kill switch as well. This will help you cut fuel at the track in the event something bad happens.

As for switch placement Chris, I have a friend that did just that, he put his right next to the license plate.

I hope this helps clear up any confusion, sorry I didn't take more pics. I'm just sorry when it comes to taking pics when I'm in the middle of something. I did however update my tech article with more pics and info. I'll try and write up a diagram as well.

Later,

Stacy.

Hey Stacy would you be willing to come to g.r. sometime to give me a hand with this when I decide to do it. I really liked your install and would like to do a clean one myself.

Also how is your wrx after the little track problem you had? talk to you later.

 

[96whgsx]

For my relo.. which I haven't installed a kill switch for yet...

I got all my boxes and fuses from cardomain.com

I used this block for my 2gauge to my starter & alternator, and to my fuse block.
http://www.cardomain.com/item/LITBD3

The starter wire is actually just ran to another fuse box, the bigger one not mounted to the battery and 80amp fused. *STOCK* This also includes the alternator.

Then I ran the 4gauge wire to this box for my under hood, battery mount fuses.
http://www.cardomain.com/item/STISFPD4MAXPT

Whatever was fused on the battery, is now fused on my newly installed fuse block. Hell if i even remember what they were, mpi fuse and what not, totally lost the cap to it anyhow.

Btw on my 1g I drilled the firewall on the passenger side to come up in the frame, then used hoses, cut up 1 side, to make my own gromets. Then mounted both blocks to the frame member.

Basically looks like this:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

2gauge+ exits the hole with the arrow, non fused block, daisies to the fuse block

, that pic you used paint on looks like dilbert.

Also, What I did for my battery relocation is I bought a odyssey pc680 and had a custom box made. I put everything right behind the driver's rear wheel well. I ran 1 awg wire to the kill switch in the back, where 2 wires came out on the other side, connected to the distribution blocks, one in the rear, and one in the front.