2G battery charging issue, all new parts and not charging battery

[eclipsek17]

I'm very confused about this problem and need some new ideas, I just bought a new battery, alternator and belt and now my battery isn't charging. I started the car and when I disconnect the battery it continues to run. Also my car is now making a noise like a supercharger, at first I thought it was the turbo but if it was it would have a massive leak, which it doesn't. Any ideas would help. I also thought maybe I didn't connect a wire but didn't see anything disconnected and I have a plug with 4 wires coming out of it and 2 wires connected to the bolt on the alternator. Am I missing any?

 

[miguelmcv]

Whats the volts on the alternator outlet?, whats the volts at the battery terminal?, whats the volt at the alternator fuse on each side?...

Test all 3 spots ans pay attemtion on the differences of volts on each location, also make sure all your grounding spots ar clean and tight.

About the noice, no one will tell you what it is, you have to check by your self, get your ear closer where the sound comes from, you can buy one of those tools to dig the sound and find it.

 

[eclipsek17]

If the volts are low at one of those points, then what? I need a run down of what low voltages at all of those points would mean. I tested the battery was tested by orielies and they said it was good, also put the battery from my friends car and after about 2 hours maybe it was dead and the car wouldn't run. Right now I'm stuck in a parking lot because of it. I also tested the alternator by disconnecting the battery and it seemed to work just fine 4/5 times, it didnt want to run off the alternator a few times and after a while of running off the alternator it died. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I feel like there is something I am just overlooking.

The problem originally started when I had went in the store for a few minutes and in 5 minutes the car was dead after never having any issues like that. I push started it and it worked just fine but I thought the battery was bad so I took it to orielies and they said it was good. It is an optima red top that is only 4 months old. I have the battery relocated to the rear with 1/0 gauge wire running to the front of the car where it goes into a distribution block that has everything that was connected to the battery.

After I found out the battery was good, I replaced the alternator and belt. After that it seemed to make the problem worse. Now the battery is more often and faster than before I changed it. I feel like my problem is there but cannot understand what is going on. The belt is tight, there isn't any more squelling, the plug on the alternator is plugged in and the two wires attsched to the bolt are tightened down.

What else could be going on? I'm going to check the fuse right after I post this, but if it is not that I don't know where else to go. Also could someone send a picture of there alternator with the wires that are attached so I can make sure it is right.

Checked the voltages. Battery disconnected was 12.87 volts, connected it was the same. Had same voltage at the alternator as well. The fuse was still good. After starting and driving down the block the voltage at all locations was 11.64 volts. I didn't test voltage off the fuse though. This seems like an alternator problem, but it is brand new and tested good. What else could it be? The plug I noticed was very hard to get in and I never hear it click in, is it supposed to? I pushed it as hard as I could and it seems like its in but maybe I'm wrong. It was having this problem before I ever disconnected it though too.

 

[miguelmcv]

Sounds like a defective alternator.

Where did you buy the alternator from?.

If it is from an autopart store, then is more likely the alternator is bad.

I being in this situation before, the alternator will test good on the shelf when is test it, but will not charge when there is load, when the alternator gets some load on it, it will fail, also you have to make sure power steering oil is not dripping into the alternator, It will kill it in seconds.

Start that car and turn all the accessories on, when the alternator stop charging, add ground to the alternator case and see if it starts charging, If it is not charging then it means the alternator (regulator) is bad.

Once again, make sure you have good grounding connections and don't disconnect the battery to check if the alternator is charging, You have to test the outlet of the alternator with a multimeter for Volts to check if it is charging and see how many volts is coming out of it.

I bet you have lifetime warranty in the alternator, If you can exchange it with a 96-98 2.4 galant automatic alternator, go head and do it, it is a 90 amp which dsm is only 75amp, the alternator is the same and will bolt on like it is made for it, It even has the same plug connector, or get a 2g spyder alternator which came in 90amp as well.

I replaced an autopart alternator 5 times in 1 month, so judge yourself how good they are,. Now, not all of them are that bad, we can call that a bad luck if you want, but your problem should be the alternator.

 

[Phantom DSM]

You can try a good working ecu last resort after some testing though. I do agree auto parts stoer aternators are junk, ive gone through 3.
The 4 pin plug gets so old, they dont feel like they cick, just go as snug as you can and make sure the wiring is not brittle or loose through the harness. The 2 white wires go to the B+ stud on the alternator, make sure they are on good. Measure the voltage on that stud power and ground and make sure its above 14 volts while car is running. Use a multimeter to verify this and by the fusible link. If the battery is dying overnight, you might have a draw, draining your battery. Ill post this vid below just in case.

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Edited : per correction from luv2rallye, the voltage regulator on 2g turbo is also in alternator.

 

[luv2rallye]

The regulator on the 2g NT is in the ECU but he has a 2g turbo in which case it's in the alt.

Make sure your dash charge light is working or the alt won't get power to it's field coil and will never put out. The alt relay is supposed to be a backup for this but they are known to break often.

 

[Phantom DSM]

The regulator on the 2g NT is in the ECU but he has a 2g turbo in which case it's in the alt.

Make sure your dash charge light is working or the alt won't get power to it's field coil and will never put out. The alt relay is supposed to be a backup for this but they are known to break often.

Hmm so green and white wires go to pin 33 and 41 from the alternator. Black is for generator relay and warning lights?

EDIT: I edited my post above with your correction, sorry about the confusion, i need to look at FSM more.

 

[luv2rallye]

Hmm so green and white wires go to pin 33 and 41 from the alternator. Black is for generator relay and warning lights?

The black-yellow (alt "L" terminal) goes to generator relay and dash charge light. The green is an alt output load sensing line the ECU uses to control the IAC. The white is a control line the ECU can activate to force the alt to only put out 12.5v max for cases where you need more power from the engine (less alt load) such as wot acceleration.