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Bal shft elm kit

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91 tsi turbo

Probationary Member
28
0
Oct 5, 2011
tucson, Arizona
ok so i recently got the kit and knocked out the bearings just fine. the rear barring on the non pump side barring folded over itself a little... my question is as long as my front bearing is perfect will it cause a big problem?

its mabey a 2-3mm gap if that
 
The back hole doesn't need a bearing re-inserted. There is no oil passage in the block for that hole. The front 2 are the only ones that need to be blocked off. What stubby shaft did you get with you kit? Is it the one with the groove in it or not.

Is it this one
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Or is it this one
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You folded the new bearing over on itself? All of the new bearings are used to block off the oil ports. Thats why you need to have the oil feed in the block and bearing oil hole NOT lined up. This keeps you from having a large internal oil leak resulting in low oil pressure.

The back hole doesn't need a bearing re-inserted. There is no oil passage in the block for that hole. The front 2 are the only ones that need to be blocked off.

Thats correct, i believe the rear is fed through the shaft.
 
ok well on my 6 bolt there is 1 pasage in the front and 2 rear. the 2 rear have no oil feed and it was the second kit with 2 bearings

the one bearing in the front side by water pump is good the one behind that is bad. also the bearing behind the oil pump the only one i didnt change... did i mess up?
 
ok well on my 6 bolt there is 1 pasage in the front and 2 rear. the 2 rear have no oil feed and it was the second kit with 2 bearings

the one bearing in the front side by water pump is good the one behind that is bad. also the bearing behind the oil pump the only one i didnt change... did i mess up?

The 2 bearings for the front balance shaft have to be blocked off properly. If the bearing is bent up than replace it. It won't stay in place and won't hold the pressure back. The rear shaft (the one driven by the pump) you don't need to do anything to because the oil supply comes thru the shaft from the pump.
 
Edit: Bryan beat me to it. :p

The rear bearings (oil pump shaft) don't need to be touched at all. The oil comes from the shaft itself so by removing the shaft, you have block the oil flow. It's important that the stub shaft have a groove in it (like the second kit shown) or the outer rear bearing will get eaten up very quickly. The front two need to be blocked of course. You can take the old bearings out and rotate them 180* and reinstall. Or use the bearings provided with the kit. So if you damaged the inner most bearing for the front shaft, try using the stock one to block it. If it's not a tight fit, don't use it and find another to use. But the goal is simply to block the oil ports for the front shaft.
 
Bryanwheat asked you a good question. Make sure you got a oem stubby shaft for your balance shaft elimination. Here is a link to one of my older threads. I dissassembled my oil pump that came with my car and the wrong stubby shaft cooked the oil pump
 
the only vid i seen wasnt a good one and dsmgraveyeard doesnt have one for a block... the main issue i have is my block is assambled on a stanf only thing off is oil pan and fron cover...

i will have the bearing in a few days so we will see

ok ok sooo if im woring there are a total of 3 bearing in this engin... one on the front right at the oil pump itself.... 2 in the back that the shaft goes into. so by removeing both shafts i only need to turn the one front bearing? so to better story it.

oil pump side has two bearings, other has 1. only 1 is at the pump itself other 2 are in the center of the block. by removeing both shafts the 1 in the front only needs to be replaced? ### from what i was told the two on the oil pump side need to be blocked. can someone please solve this its the only thing stoping the engin from going in my car LOL
 
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