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bad vibration under accel, CEL on.

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Styxyr

10+ Year Contributor
273
0
Apr 1, 2012
Searcy, Arkansas
I've tried searching for an answer and can't find much that is close to my problem. Now, start by saying I just had a slave cylinder for my clutch snapped, so bad it made my clutch line leak. Replaced the slave and got a new ss line and it feels and shifts fine still, pulled once in 5th on the freeway and after that when accelerating it has the most ungodly vibration I've ever felt in a car in my life. It has a new clutch, still shifts fine. If I let off the throttle the vibration stops, at idle it sounds odd, kinda like it's cammed, first I thought It jumped time...but the marks still look aligned. Won't be positive till tomorrow when there is light outside...I know I'm forgetting something but I can answer any questions I get. I also apologize for any errors, using my phone and I have a splitting headache from this issue.

Feel like I'm still missing something, it does it worse at low rpms also.
 
Its quite possible you skipped timing. Lets start with the basics and verify your plugs are in good condition with a correct gap. Also that your base timing is correct. One issue ive seen from that same scenario was the drive shaft carrier bearing tore through its rubber amd created a vibration under acceleration.
 
Coil packs, wires and plugs are all new. Where exactly is that located? I can check it tomorrow morning. They are all gapped at .028
 
If you have access to a lift then I would put it on a lift and inspect the drive shaft and mounts. Its also possible that you need to have the drive shaft balanced. If all the basics are covered I would check the drive shaft and tcase for damage or worn parts.
 
It's fwd, so there is no drive shaft, just 2 cv axles. Will check the timing when there is light out. It makes me think timing cause it sounds cammed..
 
It's not just the vibration though, it sounds like it's just plainly out if time, the marks line up right which now makes me think it's just pulling time...bad leak someplace?
 
I pulled my head off how I found my problem.I have had a vac like cause this but if it sounds camed I dhows it run in boost.How soon is it at temp?
 
Temp is normal, oil pressure is normal. I haven't had time to check much yet, but it sounds like a really bad vac leak. And I have no real way to test it till I get a boost leak tester, or find someone who's I can use. It still drives, just really poorly. So I don't think it jumped time.
 
The Throttle Position Sensor may be bad it sounds ridiculous but it caused my car to jolt and eventually it would even out at a certain RPM. This could also cause the CEL to come on. I suggest pulling it off the throttle body and putting a multi meter to it. its an easy thing to check and for me it was the cause of major problems but the car still ran semi decently. You may need to have an extra set of hands to make sure that the multi meter probes are on the correct terminals. I don't remember all of the specs but I am sure you can find them either here or in a shop manual. I do know that as you rotate the the piece on the sensor the multi meter should move up and down smoothly. If it jumps at all then the unit is probably bad.
 
I can't get codes, previous owner had dsmlink and locked the ecu. It doesn't feel like a misfire either
 
The problem with cels is when you use dsmlink it will auto check the lock checkbox and unless you disable it nothing but dsmlink can read it...otherwise half of my issues would easily be solved



I could be wrong on that, but that's what I've read and been told thst dsmlink does...
 
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I'm not a Link user, so I'm not sure how much more I can help there. What version do you have? Anyone in your area have Link? Offer them $$ for their time and the use of their equipment.

Only other option is trying a different known-good ECU and then reading whatever codes get thrown on it.

If it only happens when on-throttle, then it almost has to be combustion related. A skipped timing belt tooth could do it, but so could a few other things. The code will give you a much better idea of what's going on if you can retrieve it.

I would double check every spark plug very carefully. Look for any signs of abnormal combustion. If that fails to present an issue, then I'd do a compression test.
 
I'm almost positive it's timing related, just don't really wanna pull the head off...bleh. was told to try a new knock sensor first and if it fixes it then awesome, cause I know a knock will pull time pretty bad, and if the cv axle is broke/damaged it'll cause the vibration....guess I just need to pull them off first and check....I literally just changed the clutcj and they seemed fine then though
 
Checking the CV joint should be pretty easy if its busted it would be loose and have a lot of play in it. Does the vibration happen at higher speeds not under heavy throttle? Does the the car handle differently when cornering at low or high speeds? When my TPS went bad it shook horribly until about 3,000 RPM then it settled out. Even at higher speeds when I would hard accelerate it would jolt some more. It could also affect idle because it would be giving improper location of where the throttle is. However mine wasn't on DSM link so I am not sure how that may affect things.
 
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