bad vibration under accel, CEL on.

[Styxyr]

I've tried searching for an answer and can't find much that is close to my problem. Now, start by saying I just had a slave cylinder for my clutch snapped, so bad it made my clutch line leak. Replaced the slave and got a new ss line and it feels and shifts fine still, pulled once in 5th on the freeway and after that when accelerating it has the most ungodly vibration I've ever felt in a car in my life. It has a new clutch, still shifts fine. If I let off the throttle the vibration stops, at idle it sounds odd, kinda like it's cammed, first I thought It jumped time...but the marks still look aligned. Won't be positive till tomorrow when there is light outside...I know I'm forgetting something but I can answer any questions I get. I also apologize for any errors, using my phone and I have a splitting headache from this issue.

Feel like I'm still missing something, it does it worse at low rpms also.

 

[MQTalon92]

Pull your plugs, even though they were new. Ohm test your plug wires. Its possible when you did a 5th gear pull you went lean and burnt a valve or piston top ring. When your plugs are out look at them and read the burn pattern on the tips. That will tell you if one or more cyls are misfiring. Do a compression test to see if you lost compression in any cyl or more than one. If compression is good you can rule out piston and valve problems and start checking coil packs and fuel issues. Good luck and get her running.

 

[Styxyr]

Checking the CV joint should be pretty easy if its busted it would be loose and have a lot of play in it. Does the vibration happen at higher speeds not under heavy throttle? Does the the car handle differently when cornering at low or high speeds? When my TPS went bad it shook horribly until about 3,000 RPM then it settled out. Even at higher speeds when I would hard accelerate it would jolt some more. It could also affect idle because it would be giving improper location of where the throttle is. However mine wasn't on DSM link so I am not sure how that may affect things.

I'm actually surprised that the tps would cause those issues but I thought I'd check anyway and started my car, pulled the sensor plug off and it lowered about 200 rpm, evened out and didnt sound any different, kept plugging it in and unplugging and no difference. Guess it's shot. I ordered a new one and when I change it I'll update to let you guys know if it fixes it. Thanks alot for everyones help!!

Edit: I will compression test it also and double check to see if I'm losing compression anywhere

 

[Styxyr]

Well. I have 0 compression in cylinder 3. I'm pulling the motor to see if the block is ok. If it is then I'm rebuilding it to sustain 30 lb/s D/D. Will be a bit fun

 

[grothe3297venge]

Well. I have 0 compression in cylinder 3. I'm pulling the motor to see if the block is ok. If it is then I'm rebuilding it to sustain 30 lb/s D/D. Will be a bit fun

You should be building on a horsepower goal, not a 30 psi goal. Be more reasonable if you have a horsepower goal so you can compare with what others have used and what not.

Good luck and sorry to hear about the loss of compression. I would do a leak down before you go all bat shit crazy also.

 

[Styxyr]

I can pull the spark plug wire off and pull the plug out and it still runs exactly the same as with it in...idk, gonna pull it and put wiseco pistons in. I'm thinking 5-600 whp. Around that range

 

[grothe3297venge]

You're going to need a lot of stuff for that goal, things from tuning, a way to keep that 500-600 whp goal to the ground, and so on.

 

[Styxyr]

I have a fully built trans, putting a lightweight fidanza flywheel, stage 3 6 puck comp clutch and the head is gonna be built along with the block now. Idk which cams to go with yet either. Just needing recommendations on good brands to use. I've got decent goals that will drain my wallet