Backfiring, bogging

[TNTDSM7777]

OK, well I figured out my idle surge that I was having, however, I am still having backfiring/ bogging issues.

I have replaced the cps, coils, transistor. Plugs and Wires are good. (and gaped right). First, I believed that one of the new coils were bad. THis was because the plug outlits 2+3 were having a very light spark compared with 1+4(seperate coils). switched the right coil with another and now 4+3 have the issue????? doesnt make sense to me. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

 

[98zx23369]

video would help very much, check engine light on? did you recently take your fuel rail off? whats you have a afpr? whats the fuel pressure reading

 

[TNTDSM7777]

I can post a video tomorrow... No codes. Yes I did, but I put new o-rings on and relieved pressure and everything else, along with a new fuel filter. The car itself is running rich, i know this by the spark plugs I removed and the smell coming from the exhaust. I believe its a spark issue and not fuel.

 

[strokin4dr]

+1 on video. Do you have a wideband o2?

 

[cmfd]

too much fuel could cause backfire and bogging. my buddies car had cyl 3 and 4 plug wires switched around that caused backfireing. he swore up and down that they were in the correct order dont over look anything

 

[TNTDSM7777]

I don't have a wideband. But that's my next purchase along with dsmlink. It will start running amazing, but as soon as I turn the car off, it will have a terrible idle. Let it run for ten minutes or so. It will start running fine again. Super confused and frustrated

Also I know the wires are fine.
4123
4321

 

[Mr PopUps]

Sure they arent 1432?

 

[TNTDSM7777]

^ haha funny. Too bad they fire at the same time. I wish it was that simple . It never is

 

[TNTDSM7777]

THis video is upon start up. Notice that moving the tps does nothing, along with adjusting the biss screw. I have to adjust them to keep it running until it warms up. starts up on cold to about 2000 and just continues stropping down.

4g63 - YouTube

After about five minutes it jumps up in rpms to about 2000. then i have to get the idle down. It starts running fine then.

4g63 - YouTube

This after it has been running for a while and I adjust the biss screw and tps. It is running at about 900 rpms. Sorry about the squeal. the battery was dead.

4g63 - YouTube

 

[eli96talon]

You know with the way your moving that tps around how do you know where to actually set it for when your driving?if you just leave it where you think its ok,and not where it needs to be wouldn't the reading be all out of whack?

 

[TNTDSM7777]

Well I set it using a multimeter to .63. And it didn't change anything. If if I moved it slowly in startup it would do nothing. Could my fiav be all screwed up?

It just seems very abnormal that it will run different from when I turn it off and start it back up

The backfiring was solved with new injectors seals. I guess my next step should probably get a way to datalog. I was thinking a bad 02 sensor. When I unplug the front 02 it doesn't change anything. However, I'm still not throwing any codes and I drove it around yesterday for a while.

 

[josh1095]

when u mean "backfiring" do you mean it literally shoots air back out the intake? that would be a cam timing issue.

 

[TNTDSM7777]

Sorry I mean out of the exhaust. But that issue was fixed with the injectors seals. I have done a boost leak already too, and fixed them. Now its just running terrible. The main thing I want to know is what would cause it to run poorly after turning it off and starting it back up.

I timed it at tdc and having the cam marks line up perfectly, even taking a ruler to make sure. Also being a 95, if I'm correct there is no way to change the ignition timing.

 

[mike orlando]

Was the video of the start up? If so it sounds like cold start isnt working right since the motor needs more oil pressure during start up thats why it runs at a higher rpm first of all and the reason i say this is the chattering i heard. It sounded like some kind of metal on metal. Try teaching the ecu cold start by manually doing it a couple times. Manually i mean start it up and hold it at 1400 to 2000 rpm so its got HIGH oil pressure and no chattering, it might be starting in regular run and driving in cold start.

Too much fuel makes since. Cold start dumps more fuel to run the car at high rpm to fully presurize the motor. I think if you do it 2 or three times the ecu should automatically learn what you are trying to do.

 

[TNTDSM7777]

^ that's some good advice. You can manually teach the ecu a cold start? Well from the videos you can't really notice but the clattering sounds is from the motor shaking, trying to stay running. I hear no metal on metal sounds. When its warmest up, why would it change how its running from a non- cold start though?

So your saying that the cold starts and the normal operating are switched? That sounds possible.

 

[mike orlando]

Yes a car can learn after you reconect the battery and start it up right away...then hold the rpm at cold start idle and wait for a couple minutes, DO NOT LET OFF THE GAS UNTIL THE TEMP GUAGE MOVES. then let off let it idle for a couple minutes. get a oil pressure reading at idle for both cold start and regular idle. Shut it off let it cool down all the way and repeat this two or three times. After the third time of letting it come down to idle drive it and see what happens. That will help me determine whats going on. Before you take it out rev it up with agression to make the car realize its not in cold start then take it out and dont be scared cus the ecu will still be learning your driving.

Most likley this will not fix the problem but will help us pinpoint the problem. IF it boggs at first, boost it that will determine if your dumping to much fuel. then it sounds like you need a fuel managment system like a afc neo or something.

 

[TNTDSM7777]

The first video was a little after start up. Start up its even worse. It barely keeps itself going.

 

[mike orlando]

ps the squeaking you hear is the head not getting oil pressure thats why i think the motor is reading open loop first.

 

[TNTDSM7777]

My next purchuse is link. Well that info was beyond great! I really appreciate it. Well I did did a rebuild, so doing this isn't going to hurt it at all or be damaging to any way. With ly rebuild I did a bse. So this should be helping with the oil pressure .

The squeaking only happened when the battery dead. I haven't noticed it before that, but maybe it was there all along.

I will test that out tomorrow morning and let you know.

 

[mike orlando]

Did you do the test yet?

 

[TNTDSM7777]

Not yet, school this last week killed me. Calculus, physics, and economics test. I will report back when I get to the testing. I did find time to check my coolant temp sensor. It was out of spec. So I ordered a new one. It was only 15 bucks.

 

[TNTDSM7777]

I did the test. After warming it up three times keeping the foot on the gas I went on a drive for probably a total of thirty minutes. It was running amazing. Idle was consistent at 900 rpms, and it was boosting very well. Didnt seem to hesitant. So, the first video is after the drive. I only have the stock oil pressure gauge, but it was working normal.

After advice - YouTube

The next video is shutting it off, waiting a couple minutes and it begins missing right away.

After starting it up being warmed up - YouTube

 

[TNTDSM7777]

So I finally got a timing light and I timed it. Looks like I am 5 degrees retard on timing. Never trust someone else, that's all I have to say.

 

[Scoobystyl]

So I finally got a timing light and I timed it. Looks like I am 5 degrees retard on timing. Never trust someone else, that's all I have to say.

5 degrees btdc on crank timing? thats where you want it.